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12 volt conversion II - BAD

Posted By MG Cook 13 Years Ago
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bergmanj
Posted 13 Years Ago
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IF you actually do have spark: It's really EASY to put the distributor back into the block out of time (don't ask how I know!!). Re-check actual TDC on compression for number one cyl & synchronize distributor timing accordingly.

Regards,   JLB

55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top

oldcarmark
Posted 13 Years Ago
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If the timing is out it should still try to start-backfire etc.Are you getting any indication thats its firing MG?Is there fuel sprayed inside the carb if you pump it with engine OFF looking down the carb throat?Need to backtrack here and look at the basics.Is there ignition working?Is there fuel to carb?I have a feeling something is not hooked up for the ignition.When you put the points back in did you remember the little braided ground wire that goes on one of the point screws?If you take the cap off and crank the motor can you see a little spark in the points each time they open and close?No spark there?Is there 12 volts to the coil from the ignition switch?Turn the key to the position where it is when motor is running.Take a test light or voltmeter and see if there is power at the + terminal of coil.Try these basic checks and let us know what you find.

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sundance241
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Remember , you are going from 6 volt  positive ground to 12 volt negitive ground.  ...Did you change your coil , and selinod  ?  I changed my 55 , but used a one wire  alt.   with no problems........sounds to me you have a problem with wire conections some where..................Luck...............Sam                          Florida

56 victoria
rick55
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Connecting the alternator do not loop 1 and 2 terminal. If you are using a light it will not charge correctly. Instructions for wiring kits suggest you should put a diode in the line from the light to 1 terminal. It is possible for the alternator to back feed this circuit which will then cause the engine to run on. When I can I overcome this diode by using an LED warning light whis is itself a diode.

You can loop the 2 terminal to the alternator battery terminal.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
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rick55
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Here is the wiring as suggested by Painless Wiring, with the explanation of the diode.







Regards


Rick - West Australia
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Pete 55Tbird
Posted 13 Years Ago
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12 Volt conversion gone wrong.

In order to help you must give MORE DETAILED INFORMATION.

Do you have an OHM meter and know how to use it? YES OR NO?

You say the coil and solenoid are OK. How were the checked?

Have you run a jumper from the battery + POSITIVE lead to the + POSITIVE terminal of the COIL? This will bypass the ignition switch, ballast, and the solenoid.

Is there a wire from the _ NEGATIVE pole of the coil to the distributor?

Is the small wire inside the distributor that grounds the point intact?

With the car in NEUTRAL/PARK and power to coil through the jumper wire if you rotate the distributor can you get a spark at 1 ONE the points? and 2 TWO from the lead at the top of the coil to an engine ground? If so,

Have you tried starting fluid?

WAITING FOR YOUR REPLY. Pete

MG Cook
Posted 13 Years Ago
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I have an ohm meter and know how to use it, I've been out of town and just now getting back on the car.

1. there is 12 volt to the coil when the starter is turned over from the ignition on the coil but the 12 volts is not there until the starter is engaged.

2.there is power to the points but when you open the points manually there is no arc on the points.

3. I have a remote start so I should be able to bypass any key ignition problem I may have if I knew exactly what to check for but the key has to be wiggled around sometimes to get the key to make contact and when I turn the key to engage the starter the power to the radio is lost.

It acts like to me I have half a circuit.

4. I had gas when I parked the car but my gauge is not right so I'm going to add some gas to eliminate a possible screw up.

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oldcarmark
Posted 13 Years Ago
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I would say the ignition switch is worn out.Disconnect the wire from the I terminal on solenoid(the one you added).Run a jumper wire from + terminal of the battery to + terminal of the coil.It should start or try to start now when you turn the key.Power is supposed to come from ignition switch when you release key and it goes to the run position.Yours is not supplying power.

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MG Cook
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Thanks for the schematic.

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MG Cook
Posted 13 Years Ago
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here's the way my wiring is on my 12 volt conversion so far.

1. yellow wire from ignition switch to positive battery.

2. red and blue wire from ignition switch to starter control terminal and controls neutral switch.

3. red wire from ignition switch is to the positive side of the coil.

4. small wire from negative side of coil to the distributor points.



with out a ballast inline , how much voltage should be going to the distributor? "12v".

have I left any wiring off other than the ones on the alternator.

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