As regards the 292 crank in the Windsor. This was pretty common when the 260/289's first came out, in drag racing circles. There were no aftermarket cranks available for the SBF's let alone Steel cranks. When you wanted to run a Ford in an Altered, Gasser or Rail and needed more displacement to race 327 Scrubs it was a useful trick. Problem was the early 289 heads didn't flow enough for a good 289. Really didn't work on a 330 or 40 incher.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Hi all, I've just come across this thread. I was given an unused of Silvolite pistons 292 +60 to put in my 272. Am I going to get into trouble with this combination? RodL

292 +60 = 312 +10 or 3.810, I would not do it without sonic checking the block as has been stated before. You may get lucky and have a block that will go that big, but the only safe way is to have it checked.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

I have bored a number of 272 blocks to std 292 and a few to 292 +.020" and 2 to 292 +.060". I have only seen 1 that had a problem at 292 +.020". In looking at it closer we found that the water jackets were serious corroded from running tap water. We recently bored a 256 block to 292 +.020". Sonic testing showed that was a safe bore.While sonic testing 272 blocks I found cylinders as thick as .395" and never found anything under .200".
The old Dearborn blocks were very thick, in fact a 272 DIF block weighs more than a 292 Cleveland block and I'm guessing that much of the weight is in the cylinders.
Having said that, I would sonic test any 272 I was boring past std 292.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

Thanks John & Glenn, I will get my block tested. John, this may result in a minor adjustment to my current order.
RodL
Be in touch by PM or phone soon.

That’s where furnace brazing comes into play. Unfortunately that’s not available in my area. I did try soldering both ends of the sleeve from the water jacket sides and putting a layer of resin at both the upper and lower portions of the bores within the water jackets but that also failed. For what I'm doing, a 375 incher is as big as it gets and still be a reliable combination.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Many years ago I had a repair to a cast iron head which had cracked. Mini coopers were common for this between cylinders.The means of repairing this was by an Arc weld, I was told they used a specific rod to meld the cast material.

If we are still Referring to furnace brazeing the sleeves to make block rigid again, then arc welding would not be practicle as access and control is very limited, thats why flowing brazeing material is way it was done. Yes there are a few arc wedling rods for cast iron, i,ve had good success on exhaust manifolds with stainless steel rods, preparation is the key to this welding.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Yet i'm not suggesting around the cylinders, the actual deck.

Apparently the trick is to heat the cast to 2-300*C during and after welding. Hence furnace brazing.Another option could be to remove the cylinders and recess the base for a new cylinder to be housed, and at the base sealed by some form of gasket/sealer.
And having the deck removed then a new deck could be used with a recess to house the cylinders again like the lower cylinder. The deck plate and cyl. could then be held together by studs through to the crank portion of the block/ head bolts. 3bond or some sort of sealer could be used at all the new joining areas. Aluminium cylinders could be used or steel etc.
Imagine 4.4" bores/3.3" stroke - 401CID

I read that Mummert was considering making a block to match his heads!
I also read that the Crank shaft is rated to about 400HP I wonder how Ted's 500+HP engine treated the Crank?