Ok so I am rebuilding my 292. Planning on decking the block, Pistons flush, accounting on a .040" gasket.

The heads are 5752-113 and I've read what I can find online "thanks Ted, John, Tim and everyone else posting info"

What I would like is some guidance to porting these heads. Is it true that they will flow 175cfm stock and may port out to 235cfm?

I won't need to go to far as I'm running a fairly mild cam 265-109 and eventually 1.6 rockers. I'm aiming at about 5200rpm if it goes further then that will be great.

So the porting to start with, match porting and cleaning any rough raised edges and what ever tips I can gain from you guys.

I understand induction works by volume and average diameter. Therefore if the average diameter was small and the port would then be long with an equal volume, the rev would be slow. yet alternatively a larger average dia. with eq. volume will rev quickly. Perhaps higher rev's too. So I don't want to flood the engine and expect it to rev to quick, yet some pazzaz to 5'500 will be great.

I am considering locking the orig. dizzy "load o matic" and running a Ez-EFI 2.0 carb. Love a mummets manifold yet difficult getting onto him, as I'm from Melbourne, Australia and E-mailing is my only option of contact, John.

So what its going in is a 55' Tbird 3speed stick build# 247 and gee it feels great to be cruising with the top down. I'll be glad to have it back on the road with in a month or two. I finally got my American classic convertible.

All the best, CK

Oh, Keep your wheels turning free!

The 113 heads flow 155-160 cfms stock. Getting to 200 cfms will take some good porting and that's at around .500 lift. Getting up to 235 cfms is possible and that is a race port for an iron head and will take some pretty good skill but can be done, good luck on your project.

-Gary Burnette-

On a fairly mild cammed 292, the #113s likely will flow plenty as is.. J. Mummurt issued flow figures years ago in stock form of around 170+ cfm, but at very high lifts. 235 cfm is likely possible, but only by an expert, again at high lifts. These figures were based on an over bored 312". He has pointed out more than once, that those heads are also held back by original intake manifolds.. One thing that #113s do need is more compression, but you're planning to deck the block, so that's a ? mark.

Paul

For backyard porting, concentrate on ‘line of sight’ flow which means smoothing up the bends around the head bolt bosses. Knocking off the casting flash or roughness and doing some bowl blending also goes a long way in getting those flow numbers up. Minimize what is done on the short turn radius and especially on the lower ports as the flow speed suffers in that area if the short turn radius is ‘straightened’ out. The final finish of the ports still needs to have some texture and not be mirror smooth so that some ‘friction’ or turbulence can be maintained between the port wall and the flow; this will assist in keeping the fuel from dropping out of suspension.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks guys

The cam is a high lift about or close to .500" with 1.6 rockers

What are your thoughts on re surfacing Lifters?

I was just reading some of Ted's recommendations on exhaust ports and not to take away the section over the plugs, which I'm glad because I probably would have rounded them out. Though I am a bit cautious obviously and why I'm asking.

And I now have a greater opinion of the Saunders type headers I was thinking of buying. I guy here in Aust. is making sets in Stainless, good money too. I found them on eBay. Maybe all thru 2 1/2" system from the graphs.

And the inlets is exactly the info I was hoping to receive. However aren't the claims of design regarding the change of direction in the ports to aid in a greater swirl pattern? Though I have read this to be controversial being the restrictive nature of design.

Hey CK, can you post a link to Teds info on exhaust ports?


Those headers on fleabay for $249 + shipping seem excellent value, but he does not say what they will fit or where they are made.


Cheers,

.



South Australia

He told me they were the same as Saunders after some persistance, as I had previously seen.He also has a selection of stainless pipes and mufflers, including various bends etc.

I will write it up.

Got a link to those stainless headers?

Thanks

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia

South Australia

I'd go with new lifters for insurance. Cams and lifters are too hard to change and expensive when it comes to the difference in cost of new lifters vs. resurface which has a cost as well and thinning the hardness in the process can be a gamble. Isky, Comp cams and I believe Ted sell new USA lifters which should work and are high grade. I would NOT use anything made in China.

-Gary Burnette-