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timmy4
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 10 Years Ago
Posts: 280,
Visits: 523
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I got my car on the road under historical plates and a friend drives me around to car shows. When I rebuilt the engine I put a Teflon seal in the engine not a rope seal and recently it started leaking has a 6 inch spot under it. The crank shaft where the seal rides was clean and smooth.
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Talkwrench
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
Posts: 898,
Visits: 23.2K
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Ted
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Group: Administrators
Last Active: 2 hours ago
Posts: 7.4K,
Visits: 205.0K
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292 or a 312? 312’s seem to be problematic in getting the rear seal area to the point where they are drip free when using the rope type seals. With that being said, not all oil leaks are from the seal itself but can also be associated with the side seals on the seal retainer or even at the threads holding the two bolts that fasten the oil pan to the seal retainer. . Here’s the link to the rear seal installation instructions that were originally published in the Y-Block Magazine. http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/2008/09/10/neoprene-rear-seal-installation-for-the-y-and-others/
 Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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Jeff
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 121,
Visits: 1.6K
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I had replaced my original rope seal with a Best 2 piece neoprene seal in my '56 292. This is a 60K original car so the work to the engine is being done in the car. The leak is back and after doing some research I'm in the process of replacing it again, this time with Best graphite rope seal. My thoughts are that since I am not able to properly prepare the crankshaft surface the neoprene seal failed due to corrosion/roughness on the journal. Hopefully the rope seal will accommodate these imperfections.
Jeff Petersen

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Talkwrench
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
Posts: 898,
Visits: 23.2K
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Cactus
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 Years Ago
Posts: 229,
Visits: 30.2K
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I wish I had the answer to this problem as I thought I had the answer this year. But, sorry to say when I thought I had a tight motor I am now finding large puddles under the car after short drives. After a number of years and what seems like millions of dollars I am about ready to give up. I probably will drive this thing until it blows and regroup. Thinking about a 347 stroker for my car, and I know that I may not be satisfied with it but at least it won't cover the world with oil. Y-block is becoming a dirty world in my household.
 Jan Urbanczyk Major USMC Ret. Bowie Maryland
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gekko13
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 8 Years Ago
Posts: 128,
Visits: 2.6K
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Jan, 347's have rear main seals too. If they are not installed properly or just worn out, they leak. Don't give up on the "Y-block", they can be house broken.
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Dobie Gillis
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 11 Years Ago
Posts: 64,
Visits: 1.7K
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If you don't have a PCV system you might consider rigging one up. They reduce oil leaks considerably.
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Cactus
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 Years Ago
Posts: 229,
Visits: 30.2K
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I have a PCV installed and even tried it with a set of valve covers with breathers. Nothing changed.
 Jan Urbanczyk Major USMC Ret. Bowie Maryland
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Cactus
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 Years Ago
Posts: 229,
Visits: 30.2K
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I don't think my PCV was working right initially and maybe I built up to much pressure and screwed up the seal. I am clutching at straws here but realistically I am not giving up on this thing. It runs great, has a lot of power, but it bleeds.
 Jan Urbanczyk Major USMC Ret. Bowie Maryland
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