Another thing that may be happening with the rubber seals is people follow the instructions for the rope seal and trim any protrusion and you do not want to do this.
This would be a good topic for a book. I wonder if it will be in the new one.

I haven't had any issues with a 292, either and I actually did start to trim the first one because I didn't know any better. Even so, it was used for over 10k miles without a leak.


Lawrenceville, GA

AH YES, it is always "Blame it on the rear main". There are other areas that always show up at the same location as when the main leaks so you may want to check the freeze type plug at the rear of the cam shaft for a leak, and a more common one is the seal between the oil filter adapter and the block as the original was paper and the specs said to coat it with oil before installing and yet the replacements are neopreme and will slip and not hold 100% if not dry when installed giving you an oil leak. And a Biggie that most miss is the valley pan as the new sets supply a neopreme for there also and they are known to leak unless you find an original cork like FORD put in them, I get mine from Hill's Thunderbird Center 1-800-562-1955. #1 Permatex should be used with the cork Valley pan gasket. The "Y"'s with the rear main leaks were the 239's and 256's and I personally have only had one 292 that ever leaked and it was actually squeased out by too heavy of an oil used by some old guy back in the '60's that listened to some street fool that told him to use a motor honey product. Good luck with it, and let everyone know what you find.

312T85Bird

What?

Since my engine is in my car could the seal be replaced without pulling the engine on a 272 engine?

Here we go again putting the Blame on the rear main seal. The History of the rear main leak was with the Eraly "Y" 239's and 256 and so many people will look at a Y and say it is a 312, and I am sure that from time to time a seal is not installed correctly in a 312 and will leak HOWEVER. Look at the usual fault of a leak at the rear of the motor (1.) The original oil filter adapter seal was paper and required a thin coat of oil upon application where as the replacements are not paper and if you lube them upon install there is a 98% chance that they will leak and pond at the rear around the area of the rear main. (2.) The valley pan gasket was originally good quality cork and the replacements in the kits are the junk neopreme and they have a History of leaking and the oil will run down the rear of the motor (Very Common) (3.) the least likely but still possible is the expansion plug at the rear of the camshaft. The most unlikely IF Installed Correctly would be the rear main seal on a 312 or late 292.

312T85Bird

What?

Yes there are very good tool kits available for just that. hardest part is dropping the pan.

312T85Bird

What?

Where can I get the special tools and are they just called rear main seal tools?

Timmy, here is one on ebay that I have used in the past with success. I'm sure there are other brands/places to buy them also. Google is your friend...

On the subject of Rear Mains, when I put my current 312 together I used the Best Gasket neoprene seal with the Billet Aluminum Retainer from T-Bird products. Billet Seal Retainer Everything was squeaky clean. I didn't use the side seals. I used a pressurized can of silicone to fill the sides of the retainer after it was installed. I put a small amount of copper RTV where the retainer meets the block. I pressurized it in until I saw it come out the corners at the bottom (small bezels where machined into the retainer) and sides of the retainer and didn't wipe off the excess. I trimmed the excess off when dry. Haven't had any problems... yet. I'm NOT proposing anyone else do it this way, It's just the way I did it this last time because I was tired of seals weaping after doing it the "normal" way. Haven't had any problems... yet.

Also ensure you seal the retainer bolts and the pan bolts/studs that go through the retainer.

As a side note I still have some Best Gasket Real Asbestos Rear main seals I got from Red's back in 2001 in my stash, "just in case" ha!

Just my opinion and it's worth about how much you paid me for it...



"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Sorry Timmy, I meant to add the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-D-Tools-492-Upper-Rear-Main-Oil-Seal-Remover-Installer-NEW-USA-/360777944403?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item54000a8d53&vxp=mtr

I hate it when people refer you to something but don't include the link and there I go and do it... Good luck on your seal, it's not a fun job while lying on your back.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Call 1-800-234-0221 (U.S.A.) Apex Tool Group,LLC Ask for part # KDS492 The most complete you will ever find and be sure to ask that they send seperate instructions.

312T85Bird

What?

The fellow that did the work on my engine says he doesn't use the side seals any more either. He uses "the right stuff" which comes in a calking type cartridge and can be injected under pressure. Of course he told me this after I had already installed the side seals as per Ted's instructions. I actually went through two sets of side seals. I found that the nails became caught up on the lower 1/4 inch of the seal and compressed them below the surface of the seal retainer. When I removed them I could see where the nail had damaged the seal. It took me a few attempts to get the nails in without compressing the seals. Here's hoping!

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia