i may have a machine shop do it......I tend to screw up threads!

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

If you tap the bowl thread straightness is important so not to leak.

I wrap a rag around the bowl before placing in the vice so not to damage anything then take a small level and level across the bowl seat opening, then attach the level ( it is magnetic) across the tap handle so all tapping will be true. I have also done it free hand or eye sighted that works as well also just the level is a more exact method.
marv

Which is my major worry, and with a blower and elevated fuel system pressure............!

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

the last teapot I put together for a fella down south of where I live, I had to do exactly that - Reuse the original needle and seat. I have never done the modification to the float bowl before... sounds like it would work fine though. When you do use a fuel bowl with a smooth bore, watch out for fuel pressure. They will leak like the dickens if you barely go over the recommended fuel pressure setting (don't ask me how I know, lol)

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

I may have to try that. thanks

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Frank:
You can thread the non-threaded bowl to accept a threaded needle valve seat. The thread is a 24 TPI which is same thread pitch as 3/8 fine thread however the seat thread is much larger.

I have used the tap from a 3/8x 24 helicoil to tap the bowl to accept a threaded seat.

I would try the tap in a piece of metal just to be sure it will work just in case some helicoil taps are different from the one I use. I would not want you to ruin a good bowl.

Those non threaded seats are very hard to find today and most carb kits say to re-use your seat if rebuilding a teapot.

marv

I knew some of that, running a Lincoln now. I boogered the seat cover threads, best bet would be another one. I do have a nonthreaded version that i may have to use.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

hi, only the f code is like the Lincoln, the e code are like a standard carb. also the 55 linc. carb was like the standard but it was larger than a standard carb, it has larger secondaries, about half way between a standard and a linc. for cfm, also frank, ford and IH used the bigger carbs on trucks, only with a governer, the floats might be the same as the linc. i'll check when I get a chance. they used them on trucks well into the 60's. the truck carbs are a good sourse for bigger butterflys in a standard carb.

 lincoln/merc. y-blocks &mel's                                                               bucyrus, ohio.

i think so. Soon as i find a good one I'll find out. Hoosier told me the diff seems to be the choke housing, and 99% of the time he's correct.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

pegleg,

You got me thinking, so I went and measured a "regular t pot" >> and then the Lincoln, E & F carbs here..

From the aluminum base body of both of the carbs, to the top of the carbs, there is exactly 1/2 inch difference in height between the reg t pot, to the hipo t pot.

I measured from the rim of where the air cleaner gasket sits.

Never measured anything in-between, maybe the float bowls are the same?

I never noticed the difference until one day when I noticed the chock butterfly differences.

Warm regards,

John

Is this the worlds first exotic automobile? The 1935 Harris fwd speedster, No heavier, higher, wider, taller or longer than an AC Cobra, but many many decades before.

http://www.autopuzzles.com/forum/index.php?topic=11958.0