I am about to put a Pertronix 3 in my Fomoco FEH 12127 and see that it won't fit due to the straight vac advance arm. I have a C8UP 12127 Autolite 302 windsor dizzy, does anyone know if the vac advance will interchange?


South Australia

Seems Charlie is having the same problem, I cant remember if mine was the bent arm, must have been?? You may have to try running it without vacuum advance?



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Hi, I just asked basically the same questions on another post. http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic86795.aspx

How does the point plate even come out of this distributor. I have another distributor with the bent arm and to me it looks like the Pertronix III will not fit in your distributor or does it appear that the vacuum advance will interchange.

I was discussing if a Y-Block shaft and gear in a SBF body? Anyone know or tried it?

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

And so it starts. Didn't take the wolves long to find out and start jacking up the price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REMAN-NLA-292-312-Y-BLOCK-DISTRIBUTOR-1961-62-63-F100-GALAXIE-SUNLINER-VICTORIA-/290971010591?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bf39461f&vxp=mtr

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Guys, please, don't kill-me, but I just can't understand all the fuzz about those Pertronix conversions. My car works like a clock on the stock points and condenser setup.
Almost every single newly imported Galaxie or Mustang that gets into my hands for a tune up is summarily reverted back to points and condenser, and those Pertronix carp is trashed.
Don't get me wrong, but when I drive a 1966 Galaxie, or a 1957 Ford, I like to drive a 1966 or a 1957 car that feels and drives the way they are, and that includes, points, condensers, bias ply tires, drum brakes, and all of that. Installing modern stuff just violates the car. and gives a false sensation to driving it.
I say that, because I drove a 1957 Ford Custom that was equipped with modern radials from Diamond Back, disk brakes, a brand new Edelbrock carburetor, and a complete msd ignition system. That car didn't feel like a '57 Ford at all. It looked like one, but it was about it.
I also use to drive a bone stock '57, this time a Fairlane Club Vicky, and wow, that car drives like a '57 Ford.
That's how I feel anyway.

Túlio Lazzaroni "FORD", Florianópolis SC Brasil.

'74 Ford Galaxie 500 292 V8

'82 Ford Galaxie Landau 302 V8

'98 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6

'01 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec

I didn't want to be the first to say it but unless your need it for higher revs, what's wrong with points?

I agree with Tulio, however I do have a petronics in vicky but only the original petronics 1 which doesnt change the feel of the car. I would never put disc brakes on an old car, every new car I have had the disc brakes wobble and vibrate after a year, they never put disc on Dump trucks. Drums take a little more maintenance adjusting and bleading which I do every spring at the start of the season and have never had a problem. make sure lines are in good order and you should have no worries. The other thing I hate is seeing an old car with a modern steering column.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

All the racers on this forum have me a bit fired up, so i am collecting bits to build a go fast engine...


South Australia

You can never really know anything until you try it yourself. So I encourage you to try the Pertronix but don't set your expectations too high.
Back when I switched to the ignitor 2 with the matching flamethrower 2 coil, I noticed no difference. After I fried the pertronix 2 (It has protection but I left the key on while doing something and then it would not start), I reinstalled the points and it actually felt stronger.
My opinion about the points replacements (Pertronix and others) is that they can mask issues, such as a worn distributor shaft or points cam and make it run better because the signal is not dependant on direct contact of mechanical components. So if you have a worn out distributor, you might notice an improvement but if the distributor is in good condition you may not notice a thing - and you spend good money for it.
Since then, I have converted to a Duraspark distributor with an external box. This did seem to help off idle, at the lower revs, but above about 2000rpm, I can't notice a difference.
Now, I never did any dyno testing or before and after 1/4 mile passes so I don't know just how things changed. I can only rely on how things felt, and the more expensive ignition actually felt better but at low rpm only and it wasn't what I'd call a night and day difference.
I'm not trying to undermine the importance of a good ignition, but I think depending on your goals, the money can be better spent elsewhere. And again, there is no replacement for actual experience with a product.

Another thought about the points conversion, the common assertion is "if you have a problem, you can just swap your points back in." This is true, sort of. You are also going to have to keep in mind the coil you are using. If you get a Flamethrower 3 coil to go along with your Ignitor 3, the points probably aren't going to last long. So, you also need to remember to carry a spare coil. Maybe you can use a points coil with the ignitor 3 (read the instructions) but then do you really get the most from your ignitor 3?? About that points coil, does it require the use of a resistor? Are you also going to have to carry a resistor around so you can swap it along with the points and coil, "just in case?" You can see that the "just swap it out" idea can be more complicated than it seems at first.


Lawrenceville, GA

The advantage of being able to re-fit the points in a hot Y-block's distributor is usually lost on someone about midnight while their wife holds the flashlight. Electronic parts have an extremely unpredictable lifetime - particularly when exposed to a lot of heat cycles under the hood. I'm not too thrilled with the idea myself, can't speak for others........but the re-fit option is only there for desperation use if you ask me.

The "points replacer" versions of these devices are just that - they use the same sort of coil and the same sort of dwell as you can get with the points. That results in the same sort of spark energy - and that equals original performance. Many of them don't have enough switching capacity to equal an old fashioned "dual point" (extended dwell) distributor with a "hot coil" - it would burn up the grounding transistor.

Charlie may jump in here - but I went to the Ford Duraspark II type unit for simple reasons - it has a very basic trigger unit in the distributor that has a pretty damn good reliability record (the one in my T-bird did 150,000 miles in an F-150 to break it in). The switching unit that charges and fires the coil is located separately - doesn't have a perfect reliability record - but it can be changed without burning your fingers in a matter of minutes. And better yet, the controller units can be Ford, GM, Chrysler, MSD - whatever level of performance you desire. I like that - and if you use something common from the parts stores - you can replace your spare by shopping at the auto parts store around the corner. I use a GM type HEI controller because the chip has a more up-to-date variable dwell operating scheme - but a Ford style unit could plug in and take me home just as well.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona