Glad to hear it... sound like you had the wires on the distributor cap in a CLOCKWISE rotation for the firing order. Looks like you solved it yourself and put the wires back on the cap the opposite rotation which would be correct - COUNTER CLOCKWISE.

Get her warmed up and set the timing now - show us those photos when you get a chance.

By the way, I am not KIT, but I was trying to tell you to "Keep In Touch"

You will find quite a few friendly Y blockers on this site, and a whole heap of guys more knowledgeable than me.

Daniel Jessup

Loveland, Ohio

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Ha, so sorry Daniel! KIT...got it, now. I guess I'm getting old!
Thanks so very much!

1958 - F100 272 w/3-spd column

Did you have the damper off? If that mark is where it runs best then the damper has probably slipped. That would mean that the rubber is giving up. You need to find another or send yours to be rebuilt. There is a company called Damper Doctor that does them. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Nice truck! Talk about being "knee deep" into it... that picture is worth a thousand words.

You are right on the timing mark for the crankshaft dampener. What Chuck is trying to say is if that photo you took is where you have the timing set with your light and the engine is running its strongest, then he is right, that dampener has slipped, but I see that socket and breaker bar in the photo so I am sure that you were bringing it up to TDC for #1 cylinder. Y Blocks generally like a lot of advance. The last few I have set the timing on I put them on somewhere between 10 and 12 degrees advance. Say, you may want to rough up the area on the dampener where those marks are at and use some paint to bring out those marks so that you can see them a little better. Ford never cut the marks deep into the outer ring... over the years they are hard to see.

By the way, if you brought it up to TDC and both those valves were closed and #1 was on the compression stroke then your dampener has not slipped!

check this out...

http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg208/danaxjessup/paxton/?action=view&current=100_4309-1.mp4

Daniel Jessup

Loveland, Ohio

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

You may have more than one problem if the spark is weak as you say. BUT, re-read what Aussie Bill said and re-wire the cap counter clockwise. Rotate the motor to TDC pull the right hand valve cover and insure both valves on #1 are loose. If not, rotate the engine one turn and check again. Now trace the plug wire from the #1 cylinder to the cap, pull the cap off and make certain the end of the rotor aligns with that post on the Dist cap. Put it back together and re-wire the cap in a counter clockwise direction. I'd also make sure you have fuel. This ought to be enough to get it running.

Sorry to late on this, only got to the end of page one before I responded. At least you got it running, now you can do the Pertronix.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart)