So here is the update on the coupe. I finished the new blower mock-up in the car today. What I really needed to see was if I had enough clearance between the blower pulleys and a new radiator with twin 10" puller fans. It's going to be too close for comfort, so I think I'll go with one 14" fan with the center of the fan motor in the middle of the radiator. That should clear the top and bottom pulley okay.

Next step will be to pull the motor (again) and continue on the body....still needs a lot more work but I think I'm making progress!

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Sounds like a plan to me.   Yea, my '36 has mechanical brakes but ....  I used '54 Ford 'floaters', made sliding sleeves welded to the backing plate, they now set up with the star wheel same as a '54 and float free, center perfectly and my brakes are super good, just as good as any hydraulic ... actually more like power brakes because this free-floating feature gives them self-induction braking, same as much newer cars.
Warren

82Warren;

You do have a nice looking stock 36. My intention with my 37 is to keep the body looking as original as possible with all original sheet metal, door handles, crank out windshield, tail lights and bumpers, but that is where the "stock" attributes stop. My build is a street rod and it's far too late to go back. I love flatheads, but my choice was to build a stroked and blown Y-Block for the 37 which I did. Everyone has their own personal preference when it comes to builds. This site is primarily about Y-Blocks which is why I started the thread on the build in the first place. I'll be posting more pictures soon.

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

beautiful car, my first was a 36 5 window coupe, rumble seat, put a 53 merc, every thing else kept stock even the mechanical brakes drove all over the west pa roads..Oh yea found out the rims from a VW will fit...

Brother and I own/operate 1957 Ford Fairlane 312/4x2 and two 1963 Falcons 302 rollers carburated 600cfm, FE427 sitting in shed..

Back in '74 I bought 5 '36 Fords out of a junkyard up in Hurley Wisconsin for $20 each.  There was a '37 coupe same as yours sitting there, also for 20 bucks, all complete and not much rust.  I failed to tell the guy, the next week I came back to find it gone, sold.  BIG mistake.  I did however build up an original '36 tudor, it's all original, 6 volt, has a nice radio, it's like new.  I do all work, wife does the upholstery.  I painted it Gun Metal Gray, the original color.  It has the 221 flathead but I did mill the heads .068 (flat pistons) so it has plenty of pep and speed.  Buying all those '36's really paid off, I sold several thousand dollars'worth of parts on eBay, more than paid for the entire restoration of the '36.  We've had it on long trips, it runs like a clock, turns heads everywhere we go.  My advice:  Keep this car looking as original because no one including me is going to upstage the talent of Edsel Ford, he knew what a car should look like, his '34 Ford it still voted the best looking American production automobile ever ... and it is.   The '36 and '7 are not far behind so keep it straight.  Note I have original wheels, hubcaps, bumpers, everything perfect.


82warren, in MN
 

Good to see ;you back on the coupe, you can always use those vapor cigarette, no ash, unless you smoke those funny "roll your owns" now that you are in callie.

Gary Ryan San Antonio.TX.

  

    

A little more work on modifying the coupe dash for a boost pressure gage. I removed the stock radio delete plate and the ashtray (I just throw my butts out the window...just kidding). Removed the division bar between the two and made a paper template. Then used a plasma cutter to get the rough shape for the filler plate and took some time to get the final shape correct. Welded the plate in, ground it down and leveled everything out. I'll be using a 6 gage set to finish it off.

 

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Charlie;
I hadn't heard of them before either. The donuts do not come in a 2.5" diameter, so the one I used was 2", but my plan is to go with 2.5" right after I get passed the steering shaft. The donuts aren't cheap, about $50 each so get your cuts right the first time.
Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

That looks great.  I hadn't even heard of exhaust donuts before.  Looks like they can be very useful.



Lawrenceville, GA

Finally got caught up with all there was to do in getting settled into this new place and getting a new shop to work in, so now I'm back at the coupe and working on the exhaust. The only exhaust that would work for me without fabricating a complete new header system was the Rams Horns. On a suggestion from Gord McMillen I used an exhaust donut which I cut into 4 equal sections which gave me two "S" shaped bends to get around the motor mounts on both sides. I used the flanges off two sections of down pipe left over from the first engine test run and welded them to the donut after I had it cut up. I think it came out okay. Rono 

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID