In truck application, the center position of the dipstick will have the stock dipstick exiting between the "horns" of the exhaust manifold just fine but makes it difficult to loosen/tighten to torque the center bolt... even a twelve point. At least I found this to be the case for the aftermarket Rams Horns I'm using.

So I cut the tube about 3/4" about its block mount bracket, and interference fit a 1-1/2" long piece of 1/2" pipe over the remaining stub. I used a torch to heat the piece I cut off so that I could shape it into a mild "S" configuration, which would move the tubes openning between the arch of the forward "horn" of the exhaust manifold but not obstruct access to the #2 spark plug. I then simply interference fit that tube into the remaining stub of 1/2" pipe, and viola.

I did it this way rather than removing the entire dipstick for rework or repositioning to the front block location of a passenger car motor, mostly cuz I didnt want to risk breaking the tube off in the block trying remove it, I didnt want to riske crap getting into the oil pan of a buttoned up motor, and I didnt want to deal with unplugging the front location and getting a passenger car tube.

The 1/2" pipe (sleeve, really) needed to be reamed a little to remove the weld seam for a good fit in the I.D., I dimpled the ends of the mating tubes to ensure a good interence fit, and I had to use the thinner/narrower dipstick (a repop) cuz the one that came with the motor (stock?) was way to stiff/thick/wide to make the "S" turns without great force.

There you have it Noob... see you in the future and good luck.

Brian

Cylinder Index = 84

Current Experiment = `57 Tbird, Grand Rapids, Michigan