The ATI Super Dampers for the off the shelf Ford applications have been costing in the $350-$370 range.  You can figure at least another $100 for special orders and potentially more depending upon your dealer and shipping costs.  Don’t get hung up on the pulley bolt pattern as you’ll definitely want the bolt pattern for which the aftermarket industry heavily supports so you can have a multitude of options regarding pulley spacing, grooves, diameters, material, and costing.

 

Time to start a new thread or post as this one is off track and getting way too long for a new reader to peruse through from beginning to end.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

how much is that damper from ati?  $200-$300. can i order it with the ford small block pulley bolt pattern do you know?????

You'll have to special order the ATI damper for the Y as you will not find it in their catalogue listing.  The Y specific damper from ATI is definitely easier than retrofitting the scrub damper but you'll pay a bit more for it and also have to wait a bit longer as it's made after ordering.  As far as I know, ATI doesn't keep the hubs in stock for the Y.  As has already been mentioned, the ATI damper ends up sticking out further forward than the stocker so some pulley modifications will need to be made to assist in aligning the belts on the accessories.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

hey ted, i tried looking  those numbers up on the ati website an came up with nothing.  are you guys saying that theres no way to use a ford damper on my  y-block?????  really dont want anything scrub related on my ford ya know.

I have the ATI Balancer on my motor.    They make a hub that adapts the scrub Balancer.   It moves the pulleys out about half and inch if I remember correctly.  I had a three groove pulley made from aluminum and had it anodized black.  The dual blower belts still line up and I had to move the waterpump/AC/and alternator ahead some.  I found a scrub waterpump pulley and had it machined some to line up perfect.

I had the two bolt original dampener split accoss the two bolts and throw the blower pulley into the hood and radiator the first time.  It ruined radiatior, fan, waterpump,  and stil has a dent in the hood.

The second stock dampener I tried: broke, split, flew off, went under the the car, bounced of the pavement, and almost hit the car I was racing.  Ruined another radiator and fan.

I ordered an ATI after that.   The extra tension from the blower belts puts a ton of stress on the the stock two bolt dampener.  

I had to break a crank to bend the ATI when it hit the waterpump two years ago. 

Overall the ATI has saved me money in repairs.

Pat Fleischman

Pat Fleischman

The LS1 damper has a longer snout which makes it suitable for use with the Y marine cover when the snout is shortened.  What I can’t say without measuring one of those dampers is if it is long enough to fit the stock Y cover or not.  The scrub dampers only need 0.0035” honed from their ID for them to slip over the Y crankshaft snout.  But I have seen sleeves used in conjunction with the stock scrub dampers to get the length back to where it needs to be so that’s another option.

 

ATI does offer a version of their dual elastometer design damper for a Y with the correctly indexed hub which has the TDC mark located correctly for use with the stock Y timing pointer.  Part number on the box of the one I have sitting here is SK-069 and the paperwork enclosed refers to the unit using shell assembly #8940 and hub #SDH-068.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Glen:

I'm not real familiar with copyright laws, I don't know if I can copy that article, even though I'm the author.  I suppose I could talk to Bruce, and even if it is covered under the law, maybe he would give me permission to copy it.  Since I wouldn't be copying it to make money, maybe it is not illegal.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

John, issue 8 of YBM is one of the few that is not available, I have tried to get it in the past just for your damper article. I think that I have the general idea of how you made yours, but a reprint of you article might be a big help to some of the younger guys and a few of us old timers. I think I remember Ted used the later LS1 scrub damper for some reason, may have something to do with the marine front cover that he is using.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Oops!  Wrong info again.  I broached the keyway in my adaptor, slipped it on the crank, slipped the damper into the adaptor with the timing marks aligned, then pressed the damper into the adaptor, rosette welded it in place, and broached the keyway into the damper hub to match the one in the adaptor.  Sorry.  Been 12 years since I did the adaptor, memory isn't as clear as it used to be.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I broached the keyway in the damper and my adaptor after I assembled the two.  I extended the damper keyway into my adaptor, then re-marked the damper with the Y block timing mark location.  I also marked it every 90 degrees so that I could adjust the valves with the engine not running by aligning the marks with the pointer and adjusting the valves in the firing order rotation.

This conversion was covered in detail, with drawings, in issue #8 of Y Block Magazine.  Back copies may still be available.  A better idea is to get an ATI damper, they are supposed to have drawings of the ones they have already made.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"