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By 63 Red Stake Bed - 18 Years Ago
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I originally built my f100 y block with the truck heads having the desire to put a blow through setup on it. I am curious if anyone has ever used any of the "off the shelf" belt drive systems on a Y block with success? I am not trying to win any classic show points, just love my Y block & would like to get some more juice out of it. I had originally planned on using Holley's 670 TBI setup on it, with some sort of electronic retard(msd 6al type box) to take care of the timing. I know that the cost of the injection has finally come down over the years, & other than adapting a crank sensor it should be relitively straight forward. Anyone every try this?
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By MoonShadow - 18 Years Ago
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Many of the members here are running McCullouch's. Both VS and VR's. They are very streetable but getting expensive. I understand the later Paxton's will bolt to the Y-Block brackets with a little adapting. If you can find one for a good price its worth it. The AWW value of the McCullouch is great! I toyed with the idea of running a Holley Pro-Jection unit with it but havn't had the engine to support testing (worn out). I still have the unit in waiting. My McCullouch has been modified to a Paxton SN60. It has a 4" fixed pulley and the upgraded impeller. It will wind to 10lbs boost pretty easily. The variable pulleys do 5 to 8lbs as I recall. Check out www.vs57.com for ALL the information you could ever want on these units. Includes pictures of the right pullies and brackets. Also don't forget Frank (pegleg) at Rebop casting. He makes the pullies and brackets. Good luck with the project and keep us posted! Chuck
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By 63 Red Stake Bed - 18 Years Ago
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Thanks, yeah I have seen the site. It does give quite a bit of info. If a vs is the way to go, what could a guy expect to spend on average to get the manditory basics(IE: brakets, charger & it's linkage, a couple of connections etc. I am going for basic, not show quality. I am only toying with this Idea again trying to figure out what it's cost per HP, & total cost would ballpark, verses having mummert port my ecz-g's that are on the bench, & either changing cams, or just advancing mine to help with static compression. The engine currently should readily accept a charger since the 292 block is stock deck, cast .060 flat tops, cite heads cleaned up .010, with 1.78 intakes, & std. 1.5 exh. valves. I ported & did a complete pollish on all ports, & chambers. They are sore pretty to look at! They just were inteded to be blown! Those of you experienced with compression & chargers, do you think I run a risk of gernading the think with my E-4 installed straight up?
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By MoonShadow - 18 Years Ago
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The McCullouch's seem to be going up in price. $500 plus seems common. You can have one rebuilt for $400 to $800 and go from there so don't be too afraid of the unknown conditions ones. The Paxton SN60 is basicly the same but also hard to find. I've found several bargins on EBAY but you have to be careful. Sorry I couldn't be anymore help. Chuck
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By pegleg - 18 Years Ago
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Stake, As pretty as those heads are, you might be better off to find a set of 471's if you're serious about the blower. The later heads are posted and have bigger combustion chambers, which works better with pressure. 
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By 63 Red Stake Bed - 18 Years Ago
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These were 63' cite 6090. Posted. Chambers are around 78cc according the the charts. I had 1.78 intakes installed.
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By Canadian Hot Rodder - 18 Years Ago
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Paxton makes a kit for early 5.0 L Mustangs with carbs and another for 60's / 70's, small block powered mustangs. I wonder how hard it would be to adapt one of these kits? HMMMMMMMM! Rob
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By 63 Red Stake Bed - 18 Years Ago
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Price on those kits kinda blows. Pardon the punn. But really, they won't sell the kits without the brackets which won't really fit a y as far as I can tell. So you will end up tossing that stuff & using the bonnet & other pieces for alot extra. Then you still get to call up Frank & get the correct brakets! Maybe someone on here will start a side buisiness for us guys wanting blowers that are for pure function instead of authenticity(what truck came with a blower anyway?), & sell a basic paxton blower 5-6lbs, & the brakets, & a basic bonnet & hoses. & package it as a kit. Paxton or whoever will gladly give you dealer costs, & then you tack on shipping & whala! You can even have the paxton stuff shipped direct so there is no inventory of high dollar stuff to look after. Hell, maybe I'll do it!
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By bird55 - 18 Years Ago
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You can also look here:
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com
Same basic principle as paxton I think. Keith McNeil and Jerry Christianson setup one on Keith's 55 TBird and it was mighty impressive. They might have used Frank's brackets, don't know-ask frank.
Last I heard Jerry now owns the car and its is street legal again. Keith passed on.
Gotta say though, a blower and it's setup isn't going to be cheap when you total up all the specific bracketry etc. But, go for it. we'd like to see more of 'em.
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By pegleg - 18 Years Ago
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Wasn't my Bracket. Pretty simple to adapt an SN to the bracket though. Biggest issue is the pulleys and the idler, they use the wide belt versus two 3/8" on the VR's.
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By 63 Red Stake Bed - 18 Years Ago
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Ok, so do you have any suggestions on most economical way to set up a blower? I have nothing against the McCulloch, just would like to figure out a parts list that would apply to my truck. By the way, I do have a crank pulley somewhere that has two grooves for the typical v belt. I have to agree with what You said on another post Frank, putting a blower on will get you the power potential & do it in most cases in one step vs all the tearing down & half rebuilding of internals. It's been my experience that when you start changing bits & pieces of an engine that has been running for a while that things end up going wrong rather quickly once you put it back into service.. Like a transplant in which the body rejects the new part or something... A blower sound best for this combination, since that's what the larger chamber heads & low compression I used were intended for. I'll just have to find an old 30's or 40s ford in a field somewhere & use my G heads & make a Light weight Rat Rod & do the Big lumpy cam on that! -oh, & then I can load that on a trailer, pull it w/ my truck & shoot for Columbus in 2009 or so.
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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did i read right???? a fellow y-block memeber put a modern blower on a y-block in a t-bird????? got any pics or info on how they did it???????
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By bird55 - 18 Years Ago
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1964fordf100292 (10/25/2007)
did i read right???? a fellow y-block memeber put a modern blower on a y-block in a t-bird????? got any pics or info on how they did it???????
Yes, what i wrote was Jerry Christianson setup Keith Macneil's 55 bird. You would have to check with Jerry, The only pic I had was in the link in my last response.
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By bird55 - 18 Years Ago
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just realized my pic wasn't showing up. should be ok now.
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By 63 Red Stake Bed - 18 Years Ago
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Ok, so for the experienced blower guys, what do you make of this one on E-Pay? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vintage-50s-McCulloch-Supercharger-W-bracket-Rare_W0QQitemZ130165656239QQihZ003QQcategoryZ34202QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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By MoonShadow - 18 Years Ago
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Be wary of a little paint. Spins free isn't especially good either. The McCullouch's should have drag when you turn them. Other than that the starting price seems too high to suit me. Chuck in NH
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By 63 Red Stake Bed - 18 Years Ago
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Ok, so can this be installed using frankes brakets? How about the Idler pulleys? I think I have a homemade a/c braket with idler, maybe I can re-engineer?... HMM. http://www.superchargersonline.com/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=PAX1016118
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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Red Stake Bed: I can't see the bolt pattern on the front of the blower, but I don't believe it will bolt to Frank's bracket. That's not to say it isn't adaptable to it. Also, it probably has a serpentine belt pulley, which are not being made for the Y Block. They would have to be fabricated or adapted from something else, or the pulley on the blower changed to a V type. John
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By 63 Red Stake Bed - 18 Years Ago
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Yeah, I figured I would get a v pulley from the paxton guys. They sell complete kits for 60's mustangs with 289's, so I would just try to get the pulley from that application. I read something that even a Super Charger is somewhat effected by altitude. We are above 5280 here. Should I still try to stick with a 5lb boost like the original stuff?
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By MoonShadow - 18 Years Ago
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Sorry about previous post. Should have read: McCullouchs don't spin but have drag on them. Can even be a little hard to turn. These superchargers turn at extremely high RPM so bearing surfaces and clearences are crucial. They can get damaged quickly if run out of oil! I've found that most of the sellers don't really know anything about them. Franks brackets are duplicates of the origionals and he has the idler arm and pulley too. Brackets and pulleys can be quite difficult to find so Frank is always a great option. Chuck in NH
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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ok. so how do i go about gettin ahold of this christinason????????? does he have a member name or somthing???? i got questions. lol. thanx
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By Glen Henderson - 18 Years Ago
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He don't do the computer thing. He has a column in YBM and ad's with his contact info. If you are not a subscriber you need to be. His phone # 952-933-3672.
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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hey guys. just got off the phone with jerry christianson. very very nice guy. i found out that he used a kit and just returned the brackets. he said that you cant buy just the blower. you have to buy the kit. the kit he used was for a small block scrub. the blower kit was from ati procharger. the carb was also from ati. the brackets he custom made. used paper board for the initial bracket mock up. then transfered that to 1/2 plywood and then hung the blower and did the mock up from there. he told me that the drive for the blowerhe used was serpentine and he used a aftermarket damper. if i remember correctly, it was a ati rattler. he said that it has to have the scrub three bolt pattern and he had to have the hub machined down.he is just a wonderful guy to chat with. very nice guy. hope this helps some of you.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 18 Years Ago
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FYI: I recently discovered a 1970 letter Jerry sent to the editor of "Popular Hot Rod" asking to speed-up their Y-block project series and offering info re: trans./headers, so apparently he's been at it for a while.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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Jerry is retired, and has been Y Blocking since his teen years. Great guy. He's from Minnesota, so he talk funny, seems to have a little Canadian accent or something. Incidentally, his last name is spelled Christenson. John
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By Glen Henderson - 18 Years Ago
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Like I said above, if you guys don't get YBM, you are missing out on a good thing. Jerry has a really nice column in each issue, not to mention the tech articles by Ted Eation, John Mummert and others. A lot of the old timers don't do computers, but they have some real good stories and information in YBM.
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By Ted - 18 Years Ago
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The business link to Jerry Christenson's page on this site has been restored along with several others. Here's the link. http://www.y-blocksforever.com/html/yestertech.html
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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huh. didnt know hes in minnesota. wonder what part. from the 952 prefix, i'm thin,ing he has to be aroundthe minneapolis/st.paul area.
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By pegleg - 18 Years Ago
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He lives just outside St. Paul, When he's home.
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By Canadian Hot Rodder - 18 Years Ago
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You guys are correct, Jerry lives just outside of St. Paul. I had the privilege to visit "Yestertech Word Headquarters" (as Jerry calls it) while on a busness trip. I also had the opportunity to ride in the previously metioned T-Bird. It is minus the supercharger, but it still packs a mean punch!  Visiting Yestertech was like beeing a kid in a Y-Block candy store! I still drool over the collection of parts to this day! Jerry is a great guy and is quite willing to help or give Y advice when ever asked. Oh and John, I think you're right, Jerry does sound somewhat like a Canadian.................................maybe he is like Frank and is a wannabe Cannuck!  Rob
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By pegleg - 18 Years Ago
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EH?
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By Canadian Hot Rodder - 18 Years Ago
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Keep working on it Frank, if you get it right we might let you cross the boarder! 
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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dang. wish i would've known that. i could have stopped by ther when i was down there afew monthes ago. guess i'll have to visit my uncle in burnsville. lol.. good excuse for a road trip.
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By pegleg - 18 Years Ago
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How about AAAYYY?
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By charliemccraney - 18 Years Ago
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Frank, Canadian is a tricky language to learn. I almost got it one time. I was in Montreal for about 5 years. It almost stuck with me. Fortunately, I moved back to Atlanta in time.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 18 Years Ago
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Once while working on an engineering job at Syncrude Canada - up at Fort McMurray, Alberta - a Scotsman told me he had made an estimate of the total lost time on site per year while the tradesmen were uttering the "eh" on the end of every sentence. But now I've forgotten it ................
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By pegleg - 18 Years Ago
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Charlie, Good thing you escaped, You coulda wound up like Rob, EH?
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By Canadian Hot Rodder - 18 Years Ago
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Charlie, they don't speak Canadian in Montreal, they speak " Quebeccois"!  I guess Quebec is a lot like your State of Florida, its a world of its own! Frank is probably right though, I fyou hung around long enough, we probably would have turned you into a hockey player!
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By charliemccraney - 18 Years Ago
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That's right, the Quebeccois. I found it funny when Jean Chretien would make a public address in english. He would say "The pipples of Quebec."
They're especially mixed up in Montreal. A lot of French, a little English plus I lived on a Mohawk reservation so I tried to learn some of that.
I miss the skiing. Otherwise, it was too cold. It could snow 3 feet over night and I still had to go to school in the morning! The summers were quite alright.
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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ya know, i wonder how much of a market ther would be for a y-block blower bracket for the more modern blowers????? ya know, just make the bracket..... i am sure you can find just the blower on ebay. hmmmmm....... also, has any of you been to yestertechs website??? that manifold they got shown, i think it could be make to work for fuel injection. might have to do a lil plumbing but it looks like it might be feasible to do multi port on that intake. what you guys think, could it be done?????
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By pegleg - 18 Years Ago
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64, You'd have to talk to Chris Larsen, if you can find him. Jerry Christianson may know how to contact him. Jerry built the manifold for Chris.
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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hey guys. I called up jerry the other day to shoot the breeze and the subject of the blower setup was brought up. he said that when he built that blower setup on t-bird, he use a scrub damper. he said that the key way was in the wrong spot and there was a couple thousands difference on the inside of the hub. does anyone have the internal dimension of the harmonic balancer hub(the part that slides onto the crank snout)
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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1964: You didn't say whether you wanted the dimension for a chev or Ford damper, but the adaptor I made to adapt a sbc Fluidamper to my Y was bored to 1.255 ID. John
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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the dimension i am looking for is the OD on the crank snout. If I know that, I can figure the rest out. got lots of scrub guys that are friends of my dads, and a couple of ford guys.
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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the reason i am asking for the dimension is, when I talked to jerry, he said that he had used a scrub aftermarket damper and had it machine to fit the crank snout. he also made it very clear that the two bolt pulley setup wasnt strong enough and thats y he used the scrub damper, for its three bolt pulley bolt pattern. but i am from the old school thinking, no chevy parts should be used on a ford so, if i get the od dimension of the y-block crank snout, i can start my search for a ford damper that i can use. also, are y-blocks internally balanced or externally.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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The snout is 1.250. Small block Ford uses the same size front seal as a Y, so maybe the snout is the same size also. FE shout is larger than a Y. The Y is internally balanced. I used a Fluidamper on my race Y, it is not a gm part, it was just made to fit a gm. John
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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the fluid damper that you used, was it a custom jobby or is there an actual part number from a catolog.
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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that 1.250 is the OD of the crank snout???? also, i am looking at the specs for the ford fluiddampers and they say the bore is min-1.374/max-1.375. is that the ID of the damper snout??????
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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The one I used was an off the shelf sbc damper. I made an adaptor hub to fit it to the Y block, the hub on the chev damper is too short to use with the stock Y timing cover. I don't know the number, but it was a 6" internally balanced damper. I had to also make pulleys to drive the alternator and blower. There are numerous pulleys made for sbc, so you could probably find something that would work. The 1.375 dampers have too big a bore for a Y block. John
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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does anybody have the damper snout length?????? is it possible to make an adapter bushing so that I could use a ford damper? to go from the y-block crank snout 1.250 to the sbf 1.375? is that idea feasible???
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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when you used the scrub damper, the adapter your talking bout is to make the scrub damper snout long enough so the crank gear for the timing set wouldnt walk???? is the crank key in the right spot so the timing marks on the damper work for the original timing pointer????
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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I broached the keyway in the damper and my adaptor after I assembled the two. I extended the damper keyway into my adaptor, then re-marked the damper with the Y block timing mark location. I also marked it every 90 degrees so that I could adjust the valves with the engine not running by aligning the marks with the pointer and adjusting the valves in the firing order rotation. This conversion was covered in detail, with drawings, in issue #8 of Y Block Magazine. Back copies may still be available. A better idea is to get an ATI damper, they are supposed to have drawings of the ones they have already made. John
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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Oops! Wrong info again. I broached the keyway in my adaptor, slipped it on the crank, slipped the damper into the adaptor with the timing marks aligned, then pressed the damper into the adaptor, rosette welded it in place, and broached the keyway into the damper hub to match the one in the adaptor. Sorry. Been 12 years since I did the adaptor, memory isn't as clear as it used to be. John
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By Glen Henderson - 18 Years Ago
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John, issue 8 of YBM is one of the few that is not available, I have tried to get it in the past just for your damper article. I think that I have the general idea of how you made yours, but a reprint of you article might be a big help to some of the younger guys and a few of us old timers. I think I remember Ted used the later LS1 scrub damper for some reason, may have something to do with the marine front cover that he is using.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 18 Years Ago
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Glen: I'm not real familiar with copyright laws, I don't know if I can copy that article, even though I'm the author. I suppose I could talk to Bruce, and even if it is covered under the law, maybe he would give me permission to copy it. Since I wouldn't be copying it to make money, maybe it is not illegal. John
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By Ted - 18 Years Ago
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Glen Henderson (11/4/2007)
I think I remember Ted used the later LS1 scrub damper for some reason, may have something to do with the marine front cover that he is using.The LS1 damper has a longer snout which makes it suitable for use with the Y marine cover when the snout is shortened. What I can’t say without measuring one of those dampers is if it is long enough to fit the stock Y cover or not. The scrub dampers only need 0.0035” honed from their ID for them to slip over the Y crankshaft snout. But I have seen sleeves used in conjunction with the stock scrub dampers to get the length back to where it needs to be so that’s another option. ATI does offer a version of their dual elastometer design damper for a Y with the correctly indexed hub which has the TDC mark located correctly for use with the stock Y timing pointer. Part number on the box of the one I have sitting here is SK-069 and the paperwork enclosed refers to the unit using shell assembly #8940 and hub #SDH-068.
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By suede57ford - 18 Years Ago
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I have the ATI Balancer on my motor. They make a hub that adapts the scrub Balancer. It moves the pulleys out about half and inch if I remember correctly. I had a three groove pulley made from aluminum and had it anodized black. The dual blower belts still line up and I had to move the waterpump/AC/and alternator ahead some. I found a scrub waterpump pulley and had it machined some to line up perfect. I had the two bolt original dampener split accoss the two bolts and throw the blower pulley into the hood and radiator the first time. It ruined radiatior, fan, waterpump, and stil has a dent in the hood. The second stock dampener I tried: broke, split, flew off, went under the the car, bounced of the pavement, and almost hit the car I was racing. Ruined another radiator and fan. I ordered an ATI after that. The extra tension from the blower belts puts a ton of stress on the the stock two bolt dampener. I had to break a crank to bend the ATI when it hit the waterpump two years ago. Overall the ATI has saved me money in repairs. Pat Fleischman
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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hey ted, i tried looking those numbers up on the ati website an came up with nothing. are you guys saying that theres no way to use a ford damper on my y-block????? really dont want anything scrub related on my ford ya know.
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By Ted - 18 Years Ago
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1964fordf100292 (11/5/2007)
hey ted, i tried looking those numbers up on the ati website and came up with nothing.You'll have to special order the ATI damper for the Y as you will not find it in their catalogue listing. The Y specific damper from ATI is definitely easier than retrofitting the scrub damper but you'll pay a bit more for it and also have to wait a bit longer as it's made after ordering. As far as I know, ATI doesn't keep the hubs in stock for the Y. As has already been mentioned, the ATI damper ends up sticking out further forward than the stocker so some pulley modifications will need to be made to assist in aligning the belts on the accessories.
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By 1964fordf100292 - 18 Years Ago
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how much is that damper from ati? $200-$300. can i order it with the ford small block pulley bolt pattern do you know?????
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By Ted - 18 Years Ago
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The ATI Super Dampers for the off the shelf Ford applications have been costing in the $350-$370 range. You can figure at least another $100 for special orders and potentially more depending upon your dealer and shipping costs. Don’t get hung up on the pulley bolt pattern as you’ll definitely want the bolt pattern for which the aftermarket industry heavily supports so you can have a multitude of options regarding pulley spacing, grooves, diameters, material, and costing. Time to start a new thread or post as this one is off track and getting way too long for a new reader to peruse through from beginning to end.
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