For the Tbird owners using Granada/Monarch disc brakes, what brake hoses did you find to make the conversion? Started work on mine this week.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

I used Earls fittings and stainless hoses when I did my 54 Victoria. These are the parts I used:



Adapter # 989543 (AN3 to 3/8-24- 3/16 brake line);

Banjo # 997634 (7/16);

Banjo bolt 977522 (7/16-24);

#3 X 16 Hose (check your own car as length you need may be different).

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Thanks for the hose information. The specific part numbers will make this much easier. Still have to ream the spindles. Had them bead blasted yesterday and have the reamer from Speedway.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

I used 74 Pinto/Mustang hoses on my 56.They are correct fit for the calipers.Used 2 universal frame brackets. 

  

I got a set of MustangII/Pinto brake hoses today. Looks like a fit. I also have a Granada manual brake disc/drum master cylinder which looks like a problem fitting to the firewall. Haven't removed the fruit jar cylinder yet but sure looks like the Granada unit is going to interfere with hood latch assembly on the TBird.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

I have the Granada master cylinder on my 55 and it fits fine. Had to do some fitting on the master cylinder rod.

  Vic Correnti

Thanks Vic, I had a better look this morning and realize now the Granada master cylinder uses the lower two attaching bolts, not the upper two. Should be fine. Going to explore some banjo fittings for the brake lines at the cylinder to see if that will eliminate the need to move the battery box.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

Mark, you may want to consider making a metal plate to back up the mastercylinder since it only uses the two bolt now. Mine uses the two bolt method and I have never been comfortable with the fact that if you watch the MC while someone depresses the pedal the MC tend to deflect downward slightly. This is due to the sheetmetal.



Charlie McCraney, I believe made a plate for his uni to help correct this issue. It may require adjusting the rod too.



I've never corrected mine. but it still bugs me.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Thanks for that reminder. Will be a good project for today while waiting for a new set of ball joint washers and felts to arrive. I remember a Technical Service Bulletin for this problem on early Ford F250 diesel clutch pedals which caused the firewall sheet metal to often crack.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

A little more help needed. The ball joint washer kit came this morning so test fitting all this now. The problem is with the tie rod end taper. I reamed the lower ball joint on the spindle and it fits nicely with a small section of heater hose to cover the exposed area between the spindle and bottom of the ball joint stud. Attaching the tie rod end to the spindle isn't seating correctly, in fact I pulled the threads on the castle nut trying to pull it up into position. It looks like I need to ream the tie rod holes on the spindle to make this work. Is this right?

57 Black Tbird 312/auto