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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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For the Tbird owners using Granada/Monarch disc brakes, what brake hoses did you find to make the conversion? Started work on mine this week.
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By paul2748 - 12 Years Ago
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I used Earls fittings and stainless hoses when I did my 54 Victoria. These are the parts I used:
Adapter # 989543 (AN3 to 3/8-24- 3/16 brake line);
Banjo # 997634 (7/16);
Banjo bolt 977522 (7/16-24);
#3 X 16 Hose (check your own car as length you need may be different).
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks for the hose information. The specific part numbers will make this much easier. Still have to ream the spindles. Had them bead blasted yesterday and have the reamer from Speedway.
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By oldcarmark - 12 Years Ago
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I used 74 Pinto/Mustang hoses on my 56.They are correct fit for the calipers.Used 2 universal frame brackets.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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I got a set of MustangII/Pinto brake hoses today. Looks like a fit. I also have a Granada manual brake disc/drum master cylinder which looks like a problem fitting to the firewall. Haven't removed the fruit jar cylinder yet but sure looks like the Granada unit is going to interfere with hood latch assembly on the TBird.
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By Vic Correnti - 12 Years Ago
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I have the Granada master cylinder on my 55 and it fits fine. Had to do some fitting on the master cylinder rod.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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I have the Granada master cylinder on my 55 and it fits fine. Had to do some fitting on the master cylinder rod.
Thanks Vic, I had a better look this morning and realize now the Granada master cylinder uses the lower two attaching bolts, not the upper two. Should be fine. Going to explore some banjo fittings for the brake lines at the cylinder to see if that will eliminate the need to move the battery box.
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By bird55 - 12 Years Ago
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Mark, you may want to consider making a metal plate to back up the mastercylinder since it only uses the two bolt now. Mine uses the two bolt method and I have never been comfortable with the fact that if you watch the MC while someone depresses the pedal the MC tend to deflect downward slightly. This is due to the sheetmetal.
Charlie McCraney, I believe made a plate for his uni to help correct this issue. It may require adjusting the rod too.
I've never corrected mine. but it still bugs me.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks for that reminder. Will be a good project for today while waiting for a new set of ball joint washers and felts to arrive. I remember a Technical Service Bulletin for this problem on early Ford F250 diesel clutch pedals which caused the firewall sheet metal to often crack.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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A little more help needed. The ball joint washer kit came this morning so test fitting all this now. The problem is with the tie rod end taper. I reamed the lower ball joint on the spindle and it fits nicely with a small section of heater hose to cover the exposed area between the spindle and bottom of the ball joint stud. Attaching the tie rod end to the spindle isn't seating correctly, in fact I pulled the threads on the castle nut trying to pull it up into position. It looks like I need to ream the tie rod holes on the spindle to make this work. Is this right?
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By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
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bird55 (12/17/2012)
Charlie McCraney, I believe made a plate for his uni to help correct this issue. It may require adjusting the rod too.
All '61-66 truck come with one. The one I made has different bolt spacing to mount a GM master cylinder. The stock '61-66 truck plate will probably work for your purpose because I believe the firewall stamping is actually for the older 4 bolt MC but a 2 bolt MC is used.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks Charlie, do you remember if that plate is mounted on the interior cab side or mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment? Do you know of or have another?
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By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
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It's on the engine side of the firewall. I don't have any spares. Try a salvage yard.
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By The Master Cylinder - 12 Years Ago
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MarkMontereyBay (12/17/2012)
It looks like I need to ream the tie rod holes on the spindle to make this work. Is this right?
I don't think that's correct. I haven't heard of anyone reaming the tie rod holes?
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By oldcarmark - 12 Years Ago
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Tie-Rod ends should fit as is.The lower BJ holes in the spindle are the only holes that need reaming.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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I did some rooting around on 57Fordforever.com and found some discussion about the need to ream the lower ball joint and the tie rod holes. The tie rod holes don't need as much reaming as the ball joints. Still looking around for more info. The tie rod studs don't come up far enough in the spindle, only about 1/4 inch or so above the top of the spindle. By my digital calipers, the lower diameter is close to the same measurement on both the original and Granada spindles. The Granada spindle tie rod mounting boss is taller than the Tbird by a 1/4 inch and the upper hole diameter is smaller than the Tbird. I am using the 57 Tbird tie rod ends.
57 Tbird tie rod specs
Part Number: NCP 2692240
Product Line: NAPA Chassis Parts
Attributes:
Large Diameter Taper (Dimension B) : .62"
Length (Dimension F) : 3.12"
Right or Left Hand Threads : LH
Rod End Thread (Dimension A) : .688" - 18
Small Diameter Taper (Dimension C) : .57"
Stud Thread Size (Dimension E) : .5" - 20
Taper Length (Dimension D) : .44"
Thread Type : Macho
Granada tie rod specs
Part Number: MRC ES445R
Product Line: Master Ride Chassis
Attributes:
Large Diameter Taper (Dimension B) : .62"
Length (Dimension F) : 4.5"
Right or Left Hand Threads : RH
Rod End Thread (Dimension A) : .688" - 18
Rod End Thread (Dimension E) : .5" - 20
Small Diameter Taper (Dimension C) : .55"
Stud Thread Size (Dimension E) : .5" - 20
Taper Length (Dimension D) : .55"
Thread Type : Macho
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By paul2748 - 12 Years Ago
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If you don't have enough thread area to get the nut down and the cotter pin in, then you are correct. I had to slightly ream the tie rods holes in the spindle in my 54. It is ever so slight I did it by hand.
I put a plate between the master cylinder on the firewall, but the original intention was to provide a little more space between the master cylinder and the pushrod.
I traced the mounting surface of the old master cylinder onto a piece of paper and then onto the metal piece.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks for the photo. Seems a hole saw and some sheet metal would be enough to fabricate a plate like yours. Out of caution and fear of Murphy's law I reamed the spindle ball joint by hand. Took awhile reaming and fitting but it came out right. The tie rod threads don't come up enough to install the cotter pin but by my eyeball it doesn't look like it will take much reaming to get it in place.
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By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
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The plate is 1/4" The studs are actually countersunk head screws. You'll also need a countersink. A hole saw works great!
The stock plate is nearly identical. Only the spacing of the countersunk holes is different.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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One side assembled. Reamed the tie rod hole on the spindle to fit. Did it by hand to be careful not to over do it. Need to get some new spindle dust caps, and A-Arm bumpers to trim to the right size. The old ones are tired out. Got some plate to make the firewall reinforcement.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 12 Years Ago
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I believe that if you hunt around a bit and sort out the various disc brake knuckles of the era - you'll find that the Mustang (71-73), Maverick, Comet parts are just like the later Granada / Monarch pieces. The difference being the tie rod holes - the lower ball joint pin tapers are the same as the Granada. They are are often sold as the same part, raised spindle height is close to the same (lowers the car), strength is the same, etc. It's the reason this discrepency comes to light every so often. There are Mustang (and other Ford model) rotors with 11.19 OD discs - a bit more grip than the Granada - but gathering all of the proper matching calipers and bracketry can be a pain - unless you strip the donor yourself.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks Steve, I bought this stuff off Ebay and the spindles don't have a visible part number that I can find so your explanation solves it. I think the Granada sized rotors will be fine in my case. After the holiday I think I can wrap this up fairly easily. Summit sells an adjustable brake push rod if needed. Will probably use the Granada combination valve as well. Merry Christmas to all.
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By The Master Cylinder - 12 Years Ago
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Mark, I was just looking at your pictures and it reminded me of when I put Granada discs on my RanchWagon the stock steel wheels would not fit over the Granada hub and I had to have them machined down to fit in the center of the wheel. The hub is just an RCH larger in diameter than the stock hub. May not be a problem for you but I thought I should mention it. Check your spare also if it is a stock wheel. be a bummer when out on the road to discover your spare doesn't fit. 
If you are using aftermarket wheels it probably won't be a concern.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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I have run across this on a few other brake swaps. Did my 65 Galaxie a few years ago with 77-79 TBird/Cougar spindles with the same changes. You can turn the the later rotor hubs down to accept the original smaller diameter wheels by mounting the rotor on a brake lathe backwards. I have American Torque Thrusts including spares for both cars so it isn't an issue for me. Merry Christmas.
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By mongo - 12 Years Ago
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I am working on my 3rd set , if you are going to use stock wheels, knock all the wheel studs out, have the rotor snout turned down on a lathe to 2.500 " just did a set this week. Life is good
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By MarkMontereyBay - 11 Years Ago
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Mocking up the master cylinder and combination valve today. Made a reinforcement plate for the master cylinder and a bracket for the combo valve using the two bolt holes in the firewall from the battery box. Leaving room on the firewall next to the master cylinder for a hydraulic clutch cylinder later. Doing a battery relocation to the trunk. Now I am starting to plan the brake lines and wonder about vibration. Some later model cars have the lines coiled between the master cylinder and the combo valve to absorb vibration. I don't know if this is needed and where to coil up the lines, between the master cylinder and combo valve or between the combo and the frame mounted distribution block. Any suggestions?
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By bird55 - 11 Years Ago
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Lookin good Mark. FYI I mounted my batt. in the trunk and am fine with it. But, I wanted to mount it like the Doane Spencer car. Battery is underneath, passenger side in the cavity in front of the rear axles. Of course I couldn't do it because of those pesky exhaust pipes, but spencer did it with side pipes.
55 bird
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By MarkMontereyBay - 11 Years Ago
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Alan, same thing here with the exhaust but the trunk is large enough. Ordering one of Summit's high zoot relocation kits with a enclosed box and vent tube. Once all the lines are made and everything is fitting correctly, I am going to clean up the firewall and inner fender, etc. This Bird must have been undercoated with 100 pounds of coating when it was new. Has 59 years of crud layered on that. I used a hot water pressure washer when I had the engine out on the frame and under the car body. A huge huge mess was made. I could have blasted for another week and not got all of it off. No rust to speak of but still looks like stuffz. I don't recommend pressure washing unless you have some place to blow crud everywhere. The undercoating is nearly impermeable. Now that the battery box and power brake booster are out I have better access.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 11 Years Ago
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Finally putting stuff together on the Tbird today. Got all the brake lines made, etc. What disc/drum manual master cylinder push rod are those who have the Granada master cylinder using? The rod that came with the new master cylinder seems too long. Summit has an adjustable push rod but would like some info before I spring for it. Thanks.
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By skygazer - 11 Years Ago
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MarkMontereyBay (1/21/2013)
... What disc/drum manual master cylinder push rod are those who have the Granada master cylinder using? The rod that came with the new master cylinder seems too long. ...
I used a corvette MC (finned chrome... looks great!). It didn't come with a rod. The stock rod was WAY too long. I got another used stock push rod from eBay for cheap, measured about a dozen times, then cut and turned it down on a lathe. I made sure that with the eccentric adjuster all the way back the rod still wouldn't "fall out".
1200 miles later, and the brakes are still working fine! Even with power assist on the front, it takes more pedal pressure than I'm used to. But the brakes are there when I push.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 11 Years Ago
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Finished installing the Granada master cylinder,Wilwood combo valve and brake lines. Used the Granada push rod and it might be a skotch to long but worth a try. Speedway has adjustable rods in the 10 buck range if I need one. Still need to finish the passenger side brake hose and rotor/caliper assembly and the battery relocation to the trunk.
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By glrbird - 11 Years Ago
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Mark I like the fittings at the mastercylinder, where did you get them?
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By MarkMontereyBay - 11 Years Ago
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Fortunately this outfit makes them for the often confusing and varied Ford master cylinder fitting sizes. Best to measure the thread count and bolt size to be sure of what is needed.
http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=355/category_id=-1/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd355.htm
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