I believe that if you hunt around a bit and sort out the various disc brake knuckles of the era - you'll find that the Mustang (71-73), Maverick, Comet parts are just like the later Granada / Monarch pieces. The difference being the tie rod holes - the lower ball joint pin tapers are the same as the Granada. They are are often sold as the same part, raised spindle height is close to the same (lowers the car), strength is the same, etc. It's the reason this discrepency comes to light every so often. 

There are Mustang (and other Ford model) rotors with 11.19 OD discs - a bit more grip than the Granada - but gathering all of the proper matching calipers and bracketry can be a pain - unless you strip the donor yourself.    

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Thanks Steve, I bought this stuff off Ebay and the spindles don't have a visible part number that I can find so your explanation solves it. I think the Granada sized rotors will be fine in my case. After the holiday I think I can wrap this up fairly easily. Summit sells an adjustable brake push rod if needed. Will probably use the Granada combination valve as well. Merry Christmas to all.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

Mark, I was just looking at your pictures and it reminded me of when I put Granada discs on my RanchWagon the stock steel wheels would not fit over the Granada hub and I had to have them machined down to fit in the center of the wheel. The hub is just an RCH larger in diameter than the stock hub. May not be a problem for you but I thought I should mention it. Check your spare also if it is a stock wheel. be a bummer when out on the road to discover your spare doesn't fit.



If you are using aftermarket wheels it probably won't be a concern.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

I have run across this on a few other brake swaps. Did my 65 Galaxie a few years ago with 77-79 TBird/Cougar spindles with the same changes. You can turn the the later rotor hubs down to accept the original smaller diameter wheels by mounting the rotor on a brake lathe backwards. I have American Torque Thrusts including spares for both cars so it isn't an issue for me. Merry Christmas.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

I am working on my 3rd set , if you are going to use stock wheels, knock all the wheel studs out, have the rotor snout turned down on a lathe to 2.500 "  just did a set this week. Life is good

Po ol Davie

Sparta , Tn.

Mocking up the master cylinder and combination valve today. Made a reinforcement plate for the master cylinder and a bracket for the combo valve using the two bolt holes in the firewall from the battery box. Leaving room on the firewall next to the master cylinder for a hydraulic clutch cylinder later. Doing a battery relocation to the trunk. Now I am starting to plan the brake lines and wonder about vibration. Some later model cars have the lines coiled between the master cylinder and the combo valve to absorb vibration. I don't know if this is needed and where to coil up the lines, between the master cylinder and combo valve or between the combo and the frame mounted distribution block. Any suggestions?









57 Black Tbird 312/auto

Lookin good Mark. FYI I mounted my batt. in the trunk and am fine with it. But, I wanted to mount it like the Doane Spencer car. Battery is underneath, passenger side in the cavity in front of the rear axles. Of course I couldn't do it because of those pesky exhaust pipes, but spencer did it with side pipes.



55 bird

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Alan, same thing here with the exhaust but the trunk is large enough. Ordering one of Summit's high zoot relocation kits with a enclosed box and vent tube. Once all the lines are made and everything is fitting correctly, I am going to clean up the firewall and inner fender, etc. This Bird must have been undercoated with 100 pounds of coating when it was new. Has 59 years of crud layered on that. I used a hot water pressure washer when I had the engine out on the frame and under the car body. A huge huge mess was made. I could have blasted for another week and not got all of it off. No rust to speak of but still looks like stuffz. I don't recommend pressure washing unless you have some place to blow crud everywhere. The undercoating is nearly impermeable. Now that the battery box and power brake booster are out I have better access.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

Finally putting stuff together on the Tbird today. Got all the brake lines made, etc. What disc/drum manual master cylinder push rod are those who have the Granada master cylinder using? The rod that came with the new master cylinder seems too long. Summit has an adjustable push rod but would like some info before I spring for it. Thanks.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

I used a corvette MC (finned chrome... looks great!). It didn't come with a rod. The stock rod was WAY too long. I got another used stock push rod from eBay for cheap, measured about a dozen times, then cut and turned it down on a lathe. I made sure that with the eccentric adjuster all the way back the rod still wouldn't "fall out".



1200 miles later, and the brakes are still working fine! Even with power assist on the front, it takes more pedal pressure than I'm used to. But the brakes are there when I push.