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Moz
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
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hi guys im trying to figure out my throttle bell crank & i know theres a return spring that goes from it to the block but i dont know where it goes have any of you guys got any pictures or diagrams tht show it i know steve metzger posted something about it ages ago.
 moz. geelong victoria australia. graduate 1980, bus, truck, car, hot rod, boat, submarine, hovercraft, hydrafoil, firetruck, mobile home, jet, helicopter, cruise ship, motorcycle, bicycle, santa's sleigh, clock, alloy bullbar, alloy fuel tank, lens, dr who's tardis, matter - anti matter warp drive buffer & y-block lover
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GREENBIRD56
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Here is the diagram I posted long ago Moz - its of the '56 Thunderbird set-up - but similar to oithers with the Ford-O-Matic. The return spring drops down to the back of the intake manifold from an arm on the manifold linkage. Its almost vertical when at the normal idle position. 
I had a lot of trouble with my outfit - with the Demon carb - due to rapid release of the throttle flopping everything back too far. Inconsistent at best - so I put a stack of washers under one of the rearmost bolts on the back of the block and arranged a positive stopping point for the bellcrank.
Steve Metzger Tucson, Arizona
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Timbo from Mempho
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Hope this helps.
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Moz
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
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thanks steve & timbo thats just what i needed the only difference is down under our bell cranks are different but the wrking principle is the same  
 moz. geelong victoria australia. graduate 1980, bus, truck, car, hot rod, boat, submarine, hovercraft, hydrafoil, firetruck, mobile home, jet, helicopter, cruise ship, motorcycle, bicycle, santa's sleigh, clock, alloy bullbar, alloy fuel tank, lens, dr who's tardis, matter - anti matter warp drive buffer & y-block lover
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Moz
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
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those photos show how it is set up now with the return spring on the carby to get it to work i have to put a bolt in 1 of the gauge holes to lock it up otherwise when i put my foot on the throttle it opens but then the spring pulls the throttle shut while giving the auto control rod full throttle.
 moz. geelong victoria australia. graduate 1980, bus, truck, car, hot rod, boat, submarine, hovercraft, hydrafoil, firetruck, mobile home, jet, helicopter, cruise ship, motorcycle, bicycle, santa's sleigh, clock, alloy bullbar, alloy fuel tank, lens, dr who's tardis, matter - anti matter warp drive buffer & y-block lover
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Timbo from Mempho
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I am going back with the LOKAR cable and their step down for the C-4 Trans. Seems to work good so far.
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GREENBIRD56
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Moz - I think you must be dealing with the same thing I was fighting - the spring in my carb was so strong that the movement of the "kickdown" is staged improperly. With the factory carb and springs, the carb throttle first moves to full throttle - then as you continue to move the foot feed pedal, the linkage continues to rotate in the slot, providing additional over-travel for the kickdown rod. There has to be enough room under the gas pedal to get it to go all of the way - hence the Ford manual spec for clearance under the pedal (shown in the Ford-O-Matic manuals). The internal spring in the Demon was so strong that the primary wouldn't open without first using up the kickdown slot - DUH. 

So for now my "solution" was to put a bolt and washer in the slot and lock it out - yours too? Kickdown is to manually move the shift lever. Someone on the forum wrote that they had some luck doubling up the kickdown spring - making it strong enough to allow the right staging - I haven't tried that but it might be the best way to go. I have built an extension for the kickdown arm, so it travels further as the primary throttle rotates - but the first attempt was a "KLUGE" and didn't get the job done. More work is planned - but at the moment not near the top of my list.
Steve Metzger Tucson, Arizona
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drof75
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Greenbird - I did the exact same thing using the bolt to lock down the kick down travel. I am all so planning to get a spring with more tension to over come the early movement of the kick down linkage. The carb is a holley 1850. The only that puzzles me is that the linkage did not do it all the time. Maybe the kick down spring was marginal. I'll try to get a rating on the spring that works.
Buz
Buz Mills
Dallas, TX
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GREENBIRD56
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Moz - you have the stock carb on there don't you? One of the other problems I ran into when the Holley 1850 4bbl was on mine - the swing of the carb lever was longer than with the teapot. So moving the linkage didn't open the throttle as much before. Couldn't find an existing hole in the lever to match - so I drilled another at the right radius to match the teapot. the Demon had a better hole selection than the 1850.
Steve Metzger Tucson, Arizona
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Moz
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yeah your right steve the only way it would work was to lock it up & its got a holley 350 & it does move way further than the throttle can pull it open i can get 3/4 throttle at the most if i put my autolite carby on i would get wot. the other problem i faced was if i set it up per the workshop manual when i pulled the drill bit out of the gauge holes the bellcrank would move & you couldnt put the bit back in all 3 holes now ive put a return spring in its proper position i can now line everything up. last night i was thinking of adding the second spring also for a bit more tension there's every chance that my 52 year old spring is not as strong anymore.
 moz. geelong victoria australia. graduate 1980, bus, truck, car, hot rod, boat, submarine, hovercraft, hydrafoil, firetruck, mobile home, jet, helicopter, cruise ship, motorcycle, bicycle, santa's sleigh, clock, alloy bullbar, alloy fuel tank, lens, dr who's tardis, matter - anti matter warp drive buffer & y-block lover
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