In the spur of a moment, I decided to yank the 292 out of my '64 F100 and give it a proper rebuild and maybe toss some goodies at it. I pulled it out yesterday and got it down to a bare block today. The block is C2AE, the heads are C1TE, and the crank has various numbers punched on it but is a forged crank I believe.



I'd like to take everything to the machine shop tomorrow, but would like to get some opinions on what direction to go with for this build. The engine will be going back into the same truck, which is my regular driver, so streetability is an important factor. The truck isn't used for heavy duty work though. Its been hot-rodded some with a Jag front suspension and lowered stance. I'll occasionally tow a 3000lbs boat with it, but otherwise I'm just going to use it for commuting. I'd like to go with a little peppier cam and a 4bbl carb though. I already have a Pertronix distributor to put back in it. I also have a Mustang T5 to go behind it.



So I've been browsing through Mummert's site and came up with this initial parts list:



- High rise aluminum intake (coupled with an Edelbrock 500cfm carb)

- Y-265S cam

- Complete rebuild kit

- Tons of misc stuff like p/s brackets, pushrods, lifters, bellhousing modification, blah blah blah (hopefully I can get some sort of discount for a bulk order )



My questions are:



- Are the C1TE heads any good? If not, does anyone have a set of nice heads for sale? I'd love to bolt on a set of Mummert's aluminum heads but not sure if I can afford it.

- Is the Y-265S cam a good choice for my application?

- How do I bump up the compression ratio some? Maybe a different set of heads is the ticket?

- Are there any oiling modifications I should make?



Any other thoughts on the build are appreciated!

_____



Billerica, MA

Two areas that will give the best bang for the buck in regards to performance will be increasing the compression ratio and head porting.  Here’s the link showing the chart for some of the various cylinder heads that have been tested on a 312.  http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic61587-3-3.aspx 

 

Here are some past threads discussing oil mods.

Center cam bearing

Grooving the center cam hole in the block

Oil Flow Diagram

Pressurized rocker shafts

Pressurized rocker shaft more

Pressurized timing chain oiling

Rocker arm overflow tubes Cons

Rocker arm overflow tubes Pros

Rocker arm overflow tube More Pros

Slotting the rocker shafts for improved oiling

Timing chain oil trough

Adding lifter valley holes for camshaft oiling

Drilling additional holes for oiling and/or venting

Valley holes for aiding crankcase evacuation

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I like everything but the Edelbrock carb. I wouldn't use it unless I had it on hand and didn't want to spend money for something else. It's not a bad carb it just isn't in the same ball park, after having used a Holley.



RE the heads, get whatever you can afford. A smaller chambered big valve casting will help but if it's not in the budget, the C1TEs will get you down the road just fine.

Since you're doing a complete rebuild, the easiest and possibly most cost effective way to increase compression may be domed pistons. If you have the extra cash, you can zero the deck (Make sure the pistons are flush with the block's deck surface when at top dead center). This will increase compression and improve the detonation resistance of the engine. You can mill the heads.

You do need to decide just how you will get your compression. If you use the C1TEs with domed pistons and later decide to swap for better heads, you may then have too much compression. On the other hand, if you stick with flat tops, you will leave some compression on the table but you should be able to swap heads later with no worries.


Lawrenceville, GA

I got the Mummert (Clay smith) 272 cam and am very pleased. But for my style driving I wish I would have upped it some to the 282.

Where are you located? even some C or H heads with the medium sized valves I found work very well.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Hey Matt, off the subject of the 292 for just a sec, do you have any photos of the Jag suspension install in your truck? I have a `61 Unibody and really want to put one in the truck, and would like to see how the truck sits, plus how easy it is to install. Email me if you want to keep it off here, just really interested in seeing it. email is JPotter at speedmaven dot com.

James Potter
`57 Fords International



`57 Custom Tudor

`57 Fords International National Director

Pass Christian, MS (near Gulfport/Biloxi)

Do I have photos?! Only a comprehensive write up of the entire swap including detailed pictures and other tips.



http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=571296



Back to the 292 build. It sounds like getting the compression up is the key here. I was reading Tim McMaster's article (HERE) about using the C1TE heads by opening up the valve size and shaving the deck to reduce chamber size. It definitely piqued my interest so I emailed him about it but haven't heard back yet. I'm not sure how much it would cost to do all that work to these heads though... On the other hand, the more I look at the aluminum heads, the more I want them. Arrrghh. They would definitely solve a lot of problems and get my CR in a great range...



I also found out today that this particular 292 had already been rebuilt back in the '80s. It has .040 oversize pistons in it. So can I go to .060 pistons safely? Mummert's rebuild kit offers .060 so I'd assume its okay.



The Edelbrock 500 is a carb I already have. I've owned several Holleys and Edelbrocks and have never found one make overwhelmingly better than the other, so I think I'll stick with the 500 for the meantime, but I still appreciate your advice Charlie.



I'm in Billerica, MA, fyi.



Thanks everyone.

_____



Billerica, MA

Matt, I had followed your Jag suspension thread and was impressed, glad you are keeping the Y block. You should have no problem with +.060 bore, but always a good idea to sonic check for over that. I would look for some G or 113 heads, and 0 deck the block. If you can't find any heads local, give me a call, I  have several sets of G's but shipping is high. Of course if they are in the budget, the Mummert alum heads can't be beat.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

I think the cam will be great. I would suggest ECZ-G heads with 1.54 rockers. The Mummert intake would be great if it was in your budget but the stock '57 Ford cast iron 4 barrel intake with the proper spacer and a 500 to 550 Holley would be good. A stock Holley off of a '57  312 would also be fine. Headers and a good set of performance mufflers will also help. Have fun with it.

That would be a Yes on the 0.060” overbore.  While sonic testing is typically recommended for any overboring to simply to check for core shift, the C2AE blocks are reasonably safe at 0.060” over.  Part of this has to do with the C2AE blocks being used for both 292 and 312 production requirements.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I am about 2-2.5 hours north of you, I have a variety of heads. Look on Mummerts site at Crank ID. if it is steel it will have a full circle flange where the flywheel bolts on.

Ted! posted at 4:30am, having sleep disorders these days?

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?