The crank, rods, rod bearings, pistons, rings, snout gear, and damper are at the balance shop. I still don't have a flywheel to bring him yet; maybe I'll order one from Mummert today. I feel fortunate to have found a really good balance shop called Lindskog Balancing in Boxborough MA. The guy there was extremely helpful and took the time to show me around and explain how a balance job is done. Sounds like it'll be worth it.

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Billerica, MA

Matt2491,

Nice!

I have a cautionary question: By the looks of the various piston / rod combinations, I see a large variation in the looks of the large-end counterweight (balancing weight); have you static-balanced that set of eight to each other for weight-match.

If not, (IMHO) please take the time to obtain a gram-scale; and, carefully static-balance all to the lightest of each end.

I've done this many moons ago, and balanced to within 1/10 gram; which made that engine really sweet (even without dynamic balancing); you could stand a nickel on edge all day on it's intake manifold while idling; and, it would start on the first stroke.

After static balance, THEN, have it dynamically balanced.

Regards,   JLB

55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top

I'm sure you need to draw the line somewhere but since you're planning to use this engine, I think it is absolutely worth it. You'll be glad you did. While you're at it, balance the damper, the flywheel, and maybe the pressure plate. Some shops don't charge extra to do that with the crank. Also do the rods and pistons - they are usually included in a balance job. After you balance an engine, you'll be surprised just how out of balance a "smooth running" engine was.


Lawrenceville, GA

Alrighty I took the block back to the guy today. He said he'll take .040~.045" off the deck.



In the meantime, is it worth getting my crank re-balanced? I don't want to go crazy, and this is just an engine for my truck, so if its not necessary, do say so. But I am running new .060 pistons and not sure if they are more or less weight than the original slugs. How accurate was the factory balance anyway?



Oh, and a pic from yesterday





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Billerica, MA

I think it's worth it. It increases the compression which increases the efficiency and power and therefore should pay for itself easily throughout the life of the engine. The increase in compression probably will not require that the next grade of fuel be used, everything else being equal.

Don't be surprised if this also requires that the intake or intake flange of the head needs to be milled, particularly if the heads were cut. This adds to the cost of the whole deal.


Lawrenceville, GA

Hey all,



I got the block, crank, rods & pistons back from the machine shop today. The guy did a nice job, and I was able to assemble the short block without a hitch. However, my pistons are all sitting .046" down the hole! I will be running composition head gaskets, so that's another .045" added on top. Not an acceptable quench from what I understand.



So is it worth taking the block back and having it cut .040~? The machinist left the deck untouched since he said it was straight, but I'm willing to bring it back to him if you guys think its worth it.

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Billerica, MA

Hey Matt,



That is a great thread on the HAMB site and it has gotten very good reviews from the HAMBers. But there was one goon wanted to know when you were installing what he called a Chebby which we all know as a scrub. Maybe you should tell him that we use scrubs as ballast, ask Tim McM for a pic.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

Thanks for the advice guys. My machinist called and said the block needed to go to .060 over. Alrighty, whatever, fine with me. I AM on a budget, but honestly who isn't? Its gonna cost what its gonna cost to do it right. I'm just not going to worry about it. So I guess .060 over 292ci puts me at 301ci? Cool!



I found a seller on ebay called Falcon Global who actually sells some of the specialty y-block parts and such. I gave em a call and ended up ordering a complete master rebuild kit (.060 pistons and .020 rod/main bearings) and an Isky E-4 cam and lifters. I did some reading on the E-4 cam and got the impression that its a proven street cam that many people like. I got the guy to upgrade my kit to a Rollmaster double roller timing chain and an ARP oil pump drive shaft for a few bucks more too. Also splurged on a billet damper since my stock one is a little worse for wear... and finally free shipping to top it off. The total came in just a hair over $1000. I think it was a great deal.



The heads from McMaster showed up a few days ago too. They're beautiful and I can't wait to see how they perform.



Now I need to get on the horn with Mummert and order his aluminum intake, a new flywheel, and maybe a T5-modified bellhousing.



Its getting exciting!

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Billerica, MA

a good set of std bore 312 pistons is another option if .010 will clean up the block.

 lincoln/merc. y-blocks &mel's                                                               bucyrus, ohio.

Matt: Just re read your posting.. If you are on a tite budget.. are the engines 0.40 over pistons & clearances still within spec? If so going to the expense of new 0.60 over pistons & boring the block may not be your best bang for the buck.. Just a thought.

Paul