Billy.  Same sleep disorder as before.  It would appear that the change to Daylight Savings Time has the forum registering myself as being on an hour earlier than normal.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Matt, your heads are boxed and ready to go.  They worked good on "Jake" so they should do well on yours.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Thanks Tim! For those who don't know, mctim is sending me a set of his special C1TE heads that got the deck milling and Windsor valves treatment as detailed in his excellent article found here: http://yblockguy.com/techtips/cylinder_head_mods.html These very heads ran on his LSR F100, so they ought to be more than good enough for my street F100!



Hopefully with my block zero-decked + these milled down heads (which are now in the range of 69cc), I should be able to achieve something near 9:1 compression.

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Billerica, MA

Matt: Just re read your posting.. If you are on a tite budget.. are the engines 0.40 over pistons & clearances still within spec? If so going to the expense of new 0.60 over pistons & boring the block may not be your best bang for the buck.. Just a thought.

Paul

a good set of std bore 312 pistons is another option if .010 will clean up the block.

 lincoln/merc. y-blocks &mel's                                                               bucyrus, ohio.

Thanks for the advice guys. My machinist called and said the block needed to go to .060 over. Alrighty, whatever, fine with me. I AM on a budget, but honestly who isn't? Its gonna cost what its gonna cost to do it right. I'm just not going to worry about it. So I guess .060 over 292ci puts me at 301ci? Cool!



I found a seller on ebay called Falcon Global who actually sells some of the specialty y-block parts and such. I gave em a call and ended up ordering a complete master rebuild kit (.060 pistons and .020 rod/main bearings) and an Isky E-4 cam and lifters. I did some reading on the E-4 cam and got the impression that its a proven street cam that many people like. I got the guy to upgrade my kit to a Rollmaster double roller timing chain and an ARP oil pump drive shaft for a few bucks more too. Also splurged on a billet damper since my stock one is a little worse for wear... and finally free shipping to top it off. The total came in just a hair over $1000. I think it was a great deal.



The heads from McMaster showed up a few days ago too. They're beautiful and I can't wait to see how they perform.



Now I need to get on the horn with Mummert and order his aluminum intake, a new flywheel, and maybe a T5-modified bellhousing.



Its getting exciting!

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Billerica, MA

Hey Matt,



That is a great thread on the HAMB site and it has gotten very good reviews from the HAMBers. But there was one goon wanted to know when you were installing what he called a Chebby which we all know as a scrub. Maybe you should tell him that we use scrubs as ballast, ask Tim McM for a pic.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

Hey all,



I got the block, crank, rods & pistons back from the machine shop today. The guy did a nice job, and I was able to assemble the short block without a hitch. However, my pistons are all sitting .046" down the hole! I will be running composition head gaskets, so that's another .045" added on top. Not an acceptable quench from what I understand.



So is it worth taking the block back and having it cut .040~? The machinist left the deck untouched since he said it was straight, but I'm willing to bring it back to him if you guys think its worth it.

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Billerica, MA

I think it's worth it. It increases the compression which increases the efficiency and power and therefore should pay for itself easily throughout the life of the engine. The increase in compression probably will not require that the next grade of fuel be used, everything else being equal.

Don't be surprised if this also requires that the intake or intake flange of the head needs to be milled, particularly if the heads were cut. This adds to the cost of the whole deal.


Lawrenceville, GA

Alrighty I took the block back to the guy today. He said he'll take .040~.045" off the deck.



In the meantime, is it worth getting my crank re-balanced? I don't want to go crazy, and this is just an engine for my truck, so if its not necessary, do say so. But I am running new .060 pistons and not sure if they are more or less weight than the original slugs. How accurate was the factory balance anyway?



Oh, and a pic from yesterday





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Billerica, MA