Profile Picture

1955 Fairlane Front Suspension

Posted By lyonroad 12 Years Ago
You don't have permission to rate!
Author
Message
lyonroad
Posted 12 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 703, Visits: 3.1K
I'm getting ready to remove the front suspension on my 55 Fairlane and noticed the following statement in my shop manual. "The working parts of the ball joint type independent front suspension are assembled directly on the vehicle and cannot be removed as an assembly.However, individual suspension parts may be replaced." Is this just their way of saying you have to take everything apart before you can remove the front suspension? If so where would you start. If I compress the coil spring can I remove the spindle complete with the ball joints installed by removing the bolts that secure the ball joints to the control arms? I plan to install new spindles and disc brakes along with new ball joints bushings etc.

Thanks.

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia
The Master Cylinder
Posted 12 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (1.6K reputation)Supercharged (1.6K reputation)Supercharged (1.6K reputation)Supercharged (1.6K reputation)Supercharged (1.6K reputation)Supercharged (1.6K reputation)Supercharged (1.6K reputation)Supercharged (1.6K reputation)Supercharged (1.6K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Years Ago
Posts: 974, Visits: 6.2K
Mark, Are you planning on replacing the A arm bushings at the same time? You don't mention them. Might be a good time to replace them while you have it apart if they have a lot of miles on them...



Just my 1¢.

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Uploads/Images/af13a279-385d-4926-92f2-349a.jpg"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL Smooooth

lyonroad
Posted 12 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 703, Visits: 3.1K
Master Cylinder, Yes I am. I've got the A arm bushings ready to go, plus tie rod ends etc. Yesterday I pulled the "steering arm to idler arm rod" "center link". I'll probably replace the idler arm, bracket and bushings put a ball stud kit at the other end. I would like to replace the center link itself as its a bit beat up. The threads where the idler arm bushing attaches seem worn. I checked out a replacement at Mac,s, yikes -$235. There is a $75 core (if its acceptable) charge that would suggest someone rebuilds them. I wonder who? Know of a more reasonable source or even a good used one? A new one for a '55 Merc is $160 and a '51 Ford is $69 - must be a conspiracy.



Thanks

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia
paul2748
Posted 12 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 hours ago
Posts: 3.5K, Visits: 472.1K
lyonroad (2/5/2012)
I'm getting ready to remove the front suspension on my 55 Fairlane and noticed the following statement in my shop manual. "The working parts of the ball joint type independent front suspension are assembled directly on the vehicle and cannot be removed as an assembly.However, individual suspension parts may be replaced." Is this just their way of saying you have to take everything apart before you can remove the front suspension? If so where would you start. If I compress the coil spring can I remove the spindle complete with the ball joints installed by removing the bolts that secure the ball joints to the control arms? I plan to install new spindles and disc brakes along with new ball joints bushings etc.

Thanks.




If you compress the spring then you should be able to take off the spindle with ball joints attached. I'm not sure that every bolt that holds the ball joints to the A Arms can be accessed with the spring still in but compressed.



Are you planning to use the stock ball joints in your spindle swap? If so, the stock ball joint are extremely rugged (used them in Checker cabs for years) and yours are probably ok. They are one of the most expensive parts to the front end. If your going to use new, send me your old ones.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

lyonroad
Posted 12 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 703, Visits: 3.1K
Thanks Paul, if they are good I will use them. Did you say "send them to me" or "sell them to me"?

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia
PF Arcand
Posted 12 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (5.3K reputation)Supercharged (5.3K reputation)Supercharged (5.3K reputation)Supercharged (5.3K reputation)Supercharged (5.3K reputation)Supercharged (5.3K reputation)Supercharged (5.3K reputation)Supercharged (5.3K reputation)Supercharged (5.3K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Month
Posts: 3.3K, Visits: 238.8K
Mark: My front end mechanic says those springs can be a bear to reinstall..use caution!

Paul
Doug T
Posted 12 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (773 reputation)Supercharged (773 reputation)Supercharged (773 reputation)Supercharged (773 reputation)Supercharged (773 reputation)Supercharged (773 reputation)Supercharged (773 reputation)Supercharged (773 reputation)Supercharged (773 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Months Ago
Posts: 562, Visits: 2.6K
First of all BE CAREFUL with front springs, when they are compressed they represent a lot of energy that can get loose if something goes wrong.  With that warning I have improvised a spring compressor using a piece of 1/4" plate cut to D shape about 7" dia to match the spring.  A 1/2" sq is welded to the top of D and 5/8" + hole is drilled the center of the circle.  This D is put between coils of the spring as low as possible. The square stock means the D plate stays appprox level in tthe spring.  A piece of 5/8 all thread is placed through the D and up through the shock tower and double nutted at the bottom.  A Greased washer stack and then a 5/8 nut completes the puller. You need at least 6" above the top nut if you are going to remove the spring from the car.  The car should be supported on the front suspension with the wheels off.

Tighten the top nut snug and then transfer the car's weight to a stand under the frame. The suspension is now free and should drop down away from the spring for removal. With the suspension off, the top nut can be slacked off to decompress the spring until it too drops away.  REverse for reinstallation.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.


lyonroad
Posted 12 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 703, Visits: 3.1K
Doug T, Paul. Thanks, I know I have to be carefull, I have removed a few coils before, but it still wakes me up at night when I think about it.

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia
lyonroad
Posted 12 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)Supercharged (1.3K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 703, Visits: 3.1K
I found a listing for a center link that the seller claims is for a '53-54 Ford. His number (on a tag) is B3AZ-3305. The cast number on mine is AD-3305-B. I can't find a listing for his part number. Anybody know what a B3AZ-3305 fits. I've been told that the cast number and the part number are sometimes different and I realize that there is a manual and a power steering version. The dimensions he gives are the same as mine and the picture looks similar(from what I can see). Incidentally I reinstalled the old idler arm bushing and torqued it to 85 lbs as per the shop manual and it held so maybe the old one is ok? Thanks

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia
paul2748
Posted 12 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)Supercharged (6.5K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 hours ago
Posts: 3.5K, Visits: 472.1K
lyonroad (2/6/2012)
I found a listing for a center link that the seller claims is for a '53-54 Ford. His number (on a tag) is B3AZ-3305. The cast number on mine is AD-3305-B. I can't find a listing for his part number. Anybody know what a B3AZ-3305 fits. I've been told that the cast number and the part number are sometimes different and I realize that there is a manual and a power steering version. The dimensions he gives are the same as mine and the picture looks similar(from what I can see). Incidentally I reinstalled the old idler arm bushing and torqued it to 85 lbs as per the shop manual and it held so maybe the old one is ok? Thanks




A B3 is a 53 unit (B=1950's, 3 is 53) Ford changed its suspension in 54, not sure what crossed over from 53 to 54.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ



Reading This Topic


Site Meter