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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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I'm getting ready to remove the front suspension on my 55 Fairlane and noticed the following statement in my shop manual. "The working parts of the ball joint type independent front suspension are assembled directly on the vehicle and cannot be removed as an assembly.However, individual suspension parts may be replaced." Is this just their way of saying you have to take everything apart before you can remove the front suspension? If so where would you start. If I compress the coil spring can I remove the spindle complete with the ball joints installed by removing the bolts that secure the ball joints to the control arms? I plan to install new spindles and disc brakes along with new ball joints bushings etc.
Thanks.
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By The Master Cylinder - 12 Years Ago
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Mark, Are you planning on replacing the A arm bushings at the same time? You don't mention them. Might be a good time to replace them while you have it apart if they have a lot of miles on them...
Just my 1¢.
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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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Master Cylinder, Yes I am. I've got the A arm bushings ready to go, plus tie rod ends etc. Yesterday I pulled the "steering arm to idler arm rod" "center link". I'll probably replace the idler arm, bracket and bushings put a ball stud kit at the other end. I would like to replace the center link itself as its a bit beat up. The threads where the idler arm bushing attaches seem worn. I checked out a replacement at Mac,s, yikes -$235. There is a $75 core (if its acceptable) charge that would suggest someone rebuilds them. I wonder who? Know of a more reasonable source or even a good used one? A new one for a '55 Merc is $160 and a '51 Ford is $69 - must be a conspiracy.
Thanks
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By paul2748 - 12 Years Ago
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lyonroad (2/5/2012)
I'm getting ready to remove the front suspension on my 55 Fairlane and noticed the following statement in my shop manual. "The working parts of the ball joint type independent front suspension are assembled directly on the vehicle and cannot be removed as an assembly.However, individual suspension parts may be replaced." Is this just their way of saying you have to take everything apart before you can remove the front suspension? If so where would you start. If I compress the coil spring can I remove the spindle complete with the ball joints installed by removing the bolts that secure the ball joints to the control arms? I plan to install new spindles and disc brakes along with new ball joints bushings etc.
Thanks.
If you compress the spring then you should be able to take off the spindle with ball joints attached. I'm not sure that every bolt that holds the ball joints to the A Arms can be accessed with the spring still in but compressed.
Are you planning to use the stock ball joints in your spindle swap? If so, the stock ball joint are extremely rugged (used them in Checker cabs for years) and yours are probably ok. They are one of the most expensive parts to the front end. If your going to use new, send me your old ones.
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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks Paul, if they are good I will use them. Did you say "send them to me" or "sell them to me"?
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By PF Arcand - 12 Years Ago
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Mark: My front end mechanic says those springs can be a bear to reinstall..use caution!
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By Doug T - 12 Years Ago
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First of all BE CAREFUL with front springs, when they are compressed they represent a lot of energy that can get loose if something goes wrong. With that warning I have improvised a spring compressor using a piece of 1/4" plate cut to D shape about 7" dia to match the spring. A 1/2" sq is welded to the top of D and 5/8" + hole is drilled the center of the circle. This D is put between coils of the spring as low as possible. The square stock means the D plate stays appprox level in tthe spring. A piece of 5/8 all thread is placed through the D and up through the shock tower and double nutted at the bottom. A Greased washer stack and then a 5/8 nut completes the puller. You need at least 6" above the top nut if you are going to remove the spring from the car. The car should be supported on the front suspension with the wheels off. Tighten the top nut snug and then transfer the car's weight to a stand under the frame. The suspension is now free and should drop down away from the spring for removal. With the suspension off, the top nut can be slacked off to decompress the spring until it too drops away. REverse for reinstallation.
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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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Doug T, Paul. Thanks, I know I have to be carefull, I have removed a few coils before, but it still wakes me up at night when I think about it.
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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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I found a listing for a center link that the seller claims is for a '53-54 Ford. His number (on a tag) is B3AZ-3305. The cast number on mine is AD-3305-B. I can't find a listing for his part number. Anybody know what a B3AZ-3305 fits. I've been told that the cast number and the part number are sometimes different and I realize that there is a manual and a power steering version. The dimensions he gives are the same as mine and the picture looks similar(from what I can see). Incidentally I reinstalled the old idler arm bushing and torqued it to 85 lbs as per the shop manual and it held so maybe the old one is ok? Thanks
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By paul2748 - 12 Years Ago
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lyonroad (2/6/2012)
I found a listing for a center link that the seller claims is for a '53-54 Ford. His number (on a tag) is B3AZ-3305. The cast number on mine is AD-3305-B. I can't find a listing for his part number. Anybody know what a B3AZ-3305 fits. I've been told that the cast number and the part number are sometimes different and I realize that there is a manual and a power steering version. The dimensions he gives are the same as mine and the picture looks similar(from what I can see). Incidentally I reinstalled the old idler arm bushing and torqued it to 85 lbs as per the shop manual and it held so maybe the old one is ok? Thanks
A B3 is a 53 unit (B=1950's, 3 is 53) Ford changed its suspension in 54, not sure what crossed over from 53 to 54.
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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks again Paul.
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By slumlord444 - 12 Years Ago
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I would not think the 53 part would work. I know that puting a Y Block in a 53 is a problem becacuse the front ends are different.
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By PF Arcand - 12 Years Ago
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A side note on what SL444 mentions. The same fitting problem likely applies to 1954 Canadian Fords, as they did not get the new Ball Joint front ends.
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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks guys, I suspected as much. I was just confused by the sellers claim that his center link was for 53-56. Mac's lists separate parts for the 52-53 and the 54-56 but you never know for sure until you compare the parts first hand. Unless the right piece shows I think that I will replace the idler arm,bushings and ball stud and go with my link for now. You're right Paul about the Canadian Fords. My brother in law has a 54 Meteor - he loves the flat head but hates the king pins.
Thanks
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By oldcarmark - 12 Years Ago
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I just pulled out my 49-54 catalog(Canadian issue Ford+Meteor) and 49-59 catalog(USA issue).Part # for 54(US model)-56 w/o power steering is AD-3305-B.Part # for 52-54 Ford in Canada(same as 52-53 Ford in USA) is AB-3304-C which probably was replaced with the B3AZ # that someone is trying to say fits 54-56 which it does not.The 49-59 catalog I have is final issue and does not even list one for 52-53 in USA so I can't verify if the B3AZ was a replacement for AB-3304-C.Hope this info helps.Sounds like Macs has the correct information too.The ball stud repair kit is the same from 52-56 with manual steering.Kit # is B2A-3312-A originally replaced by B2AZ-3A533-A.Either kit will work.
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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks OldCarMark, (there sure are a lot of Marks on this site). I think this confirms it. There is no 53-56 part.
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By oldcarmark - 12 Years Ago
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No problem.I just wanted to ad my 2 cents worth regarding control arm bushings and springs etc.I redid mine a couple of years ago when I also added disc brakes.i completely removed all the control arms and rebushed them.If you look at the tool Ford used to separate the ball joint studs from the arms I made one using a large wide nut with bolts on each end.Fits between the upper and lower ball joints.Holding the nut and turning the bolts outwards applies pressure to the studs.Back off the nuts on the ball joint studs about 4-5 turns.Do NOT remove completely.Use a floor jack to support the arm and remove the nut and SLOWLY lower the lower arm once the studs release from the arm.Removing everything makes for a much better job than trying to work on the arms in the car.One more item to check is the lower arm to front crossmember bolts.When I got mine out they were badly corroded.Bought replacements from Dennis Carpenter.However they are made in china(like everything else these days).The supplied nuts were only narrow ones.I bought wide ones from a local supplier.Original NOS kits show up on Ebay from time to time.I needed mine NOW so I used the DC ones but let them know I was NOT impressed with Chinese parts.I think their bushings are also offshore so look around for some made in North America.If you have any questions about disc brake swap contact me.World of difference now with power disc brakes.
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By Rono - 12 Years Ago
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Oldcarmark; I just replaced the driver's side upper ball joint on my 56 Customline with a new one from Dennis Carpenter. He seemed to have the best price (by far). I replaced it because I noticed the ones that were in the car had a rubber dust boot on the big end of the ball joint by the grease fitting and one of them blew out. I didn't know if there were other issues so I thought I should replace it. The replacement from Carpenter didn't come with this boot. I thought it must be some new design so I installed it anyway. I hope it won't be an issue. Carpenter is usually pretty good about his replacement parts. Rono.
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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks for your help Oldcar and Ron, I'll use your advice. I already have A arm bolts and bushings from Dennis Carpenter or as I now know China.
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By oldcarmark - 12 Years Ago
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If you look at the supplied nuts they are the thin type.I would recommend replacing them with ones closer to the width of the originals.More threads in contact with the bolt.Also if you re-read the shop manual the weight of the car should be on the suspension when torquing the bolts for the control arms-NOT with the arms hanging down with no weight on them.
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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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Oldcar Thanks for all the advice. I am curious as to what you did regarding disc brakes. did you lower the car at all? Thanks
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By oldcarmark - 12 Years Ago
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I used 75-80 Ford Granada spindles which will lower front end by about 2 inchs.I had to purchase a 2 inch lowering block kit to level it.There are kits out there that retain the stock spindles.What were you planning to use?
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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks Oldcar Mark. I am planning to get a kit using the Grenada spindles. I want to lower the car a modest amount but I'm not sure how much. The car came with a ECK block and ECK heads but not installed so I would have to guess what the stock height is. I have seen kits advertised that offer lowering spindles but I have also read, as you mentioned, that the Grenada spindles themselves will lower the car. I have thought of new springs as well, but don't want to get carried away and build a low-rider by mistake. I'm not sure about the condition of the stock springs and would like to put it back together only once, and before I put the engine in. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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By Rono - 12 Years Ago
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Mark; I used the "Drop N' Stop" kit with the 2&1/2" dropped Granada spindles. If I remember right, I had new springs, but when we installed them, the suspension was WAY to stiff. We had to cut the springs 1&1/2 turns to get any decent travel in the front end. I really love the stance the car has, but for up here in Maine, I think it's about 1" too low. I have a rear mounted power R&P steering set-up that sits a bit low. If it wasn't for that, I'd be fine. Rono
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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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Ron, the Drop'nStop kit is one that I've been looking at. They have a 1 1/2 inch drop kit don't they. So what was the overall drop with the 2 1/2" dropped spindle and the cut springs? Did you buy the R&P kit or put it together yourself? A fellow near me put a kit together himself for his '54 convertible and it looks pretty good. I've been to Maine a couple of times and two things really stood out. Every house on the coast looks like a heritage house and there is a snow plow parked in the driveway of every house away from the coast. Thanks
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By Rono - 12 Years Ago
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Mark; Dave Gulley is the new owner of Drop N Stop. I'm pretty sure you can get the 1&1/2" drop kit from him still, but best to call and talk to him. I put the kit in about 4 years ago when Dick Cohen (the founder) was still around. I just bought a set of braided stainless front brake lines from Dave to replace the rubber ones that came in the kit because they were rubbing on the frame. The power R&P set-up came from Rick Wurth ("Wurthit Designs") who is longer in the power steering business. The set up was very difficult to install and whern it was all said and done, the entire rack had to be shimmed downward because the engine oil pump rested squarely on the dust boot of the rack. I don't know if you have a standard or automatic transmission, but if you have an automatic, Borgenson and maybe one or two other companies are making a power steering box for the 50's Ford cars, but they won't work with factory clutch linkage. A problem for me since I have the T-5 in the car. Hope this helps Rono
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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks Ron. I just put the Borgeson steering box in last week; its mounted but not hooked up to anything yet because I still need to redo the rest of the steering including the steering column. I have a manual shift car so I will have to fabricate a hydraulic clutch linkage. I've seen some that have been done on Mustangs and some Ford pickups had the hydraulic clutch as well. I'm leaning towards a T-5 ; I put one in my '56 M100 last spring and I love it. I will give Drop'n Stop a call when I get the funds together.
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By Rono - 12 Years Ago
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Mark; Please keep me posted on your efforts to make the hydraulic clutch set-up. You can send me a PM and maybe some pictures as you progress. I would like to change over to the Borgenson box on my 56 and get rid of the power rack. It works fine, it just sits way to low. Rono.
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By lyonroad - 12 Years Ago
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Will do Ron, but it looks like I'll do more learning from you than you from me. You'll have to be patient because I have a lot to do. These old cars are like doing a jig saw puzzle. As soon as you find one piece you realize you need seven other pieces first.
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By Rono - 12 Years Ago
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That's true, but that's part of the fun of it! The trick is not to get in a hurry or frustrated and throw up your hands and walk away Rono
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By 55KewlMerc - 9 Years Ago
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Hello, I am a local enthusiast looking for some advice regarding suspension upgrades to my classic car
My ride is a 1955 Mercury Meteor Niagara, 2 dr sedan which would be the Canadian sibling of your car. It still has the 272 Y block, slightly modified which I have rebuilt , 3 spd on the floor, car is lowered 2-1/2 inches, wide whites etc...the car looks great and attracts a ton of attention. Recently obtained modified collector status
I'm looking to upgrade the front end, to make it less 'bouncy' and or lazy. Would you recommend a Mustang front clip or a full suspension replacement? I know the old car centre has the OEM parts, but not sure if its worth while as I would prefer to have a better handling vehicle.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Thanks very much in advance
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By MoonShadow - 9 Years Ago
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The long lower control arms and overall design makes the 55 front end viable by todays standards. It will never ride like a new car but the ride is good and the control is great. I would save my money and do a full rebuild of the existing parts. If you want disc brakes there are kits available too. Chuck
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By miker - 9 Years Ago
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I'd go with MoomShadows advice. If you lowered the front by cutting the springs, you might look into Aerostar springs. The combination of those and lowered spindles seems to be a bit much however. New parts, especially the control arm bushings, really help. Reasonably priced gas shocks are available ,too. Check out the rebuild thread Daniel is doing on the 56, most of this is covered. If the WW walls are radials, find an older guy in an alighment shop that can set the car up for radials. They seem to like different setting from the stock spec, which was for bias plies. And all the castor you can get, if you can manage the steering effort.
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By 55KewlMerc - 9 Years Ago
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Great advice, thanks very much
Best regards
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By 55KewlMerc - 9 Years Ago
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Thanks Moonshadow, good advice
Best regards
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By MoonShadow - 9 Years Ago
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Sometimes on EBAY there is a set of front lowering blocks for the 56. The look like slotted bars with bolts. To install them you drill out the rivets that hold the spring plate on the lower A frame. Reinstall the plate with the 1" blocks between them and the arms. Will drop the front 1.5" to 2". I did this on mine years ago and they work great. No effect on driving and when I had the alignment checked it was right on. I did this with 3" blocks on the rear springs and ended up with a proper "nose down" stance. I was actually able to install them without removing the A arm or spring. I supported the bottom plate with a jack, drilled out the holes and put the bar in using one end bolt in each side. I then let the jack down until I could swing the rest of the bar into place and put the rest of the bolts in. Worked great for me!
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By MoonShadow - 9 Years Ago
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This is what I'm talking about. I've seen them a bit cheaper but? Chuck
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-LOWERING-BLOCKS-1949-56-FORD-MERC-MERCURY-1940-49-Caddy-1954-56-Buick-/181729742395?hash=item2a4fefce3b&vxp=mtr
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