Hey guys, the voices aren't age discriminate either. At 42 I have 'em. Kept telling me to "put the drain plug in you fool". Repeatedly. Well 5 quarts later and still no oil on the stick, with me scratching my head; I walked in front of the car and fell in a puddle of fresh oil. BINGO! What a dufus.

Anyway, that's my story and learned to listen to my voices.(well, some of them at least)

Have a good one!

292fan

[quote]You'd think at age 52 I'd start listening to that little voice in my head.[/quote

I've got 10 years on you and I still do that sort of thing. That's what that little voice in your head is for.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

I hate when stuff like that happens, thanks for admiting it. Nice to know I am not the only one to do things like that. You did get side tracked a little with the electrical issues so you have an excuse.

I'll always tell a good one on myself, so I'll share.



Drove it a bunch yesterday, alt was charging just like its supposed to. The bracket I fabbed is perfectly aligned and nice and sturdy. The only downside to the new rig is its a bear to tighten it up. The nut is just in a wonky kind of place.



So, while I was working on it and finding my problem, the thought crossed my mind that I should really buy a new belt while I was doing it so I wouldn't have to get it adjusted and tightened again. But, the belt looked pretty good, it was old but still functional so I just used it.



So, I'm driving home from church tonight . . . and you can guess the rest.



Made it home, I was close. You'd think at age 52 I'd start listening to that little voice in my head.










Germantown, (Memphis) TN

You can fix that problem of an alternator not charging should the indicator light bulb burn out by adding a resistance wire parallel to bulb circuit.

One end of the bulb circuit connects to the "I" side of the ignition switch and the other end is connected to the regulator. To hook up the resistance wire; splice one end of the resistance wire to same "I post on the ignition switch and the other end of the resistance wire splice to the bulb wire past the gen bulb.



Factory installed a 14-17 ohm resistance wire to prevent this no charging just in case the bulb did burn out on cars with alternators. I look for early 70's cars with idiot lights for this wire in the under dash wiring loom. It is a green wire with red tracer marked "do not cut or splice resistance wire", take the whole length of wire out with the staked terminals and a short piece of the copper wire on each end. Do not shorten the resistance wire or you will change its value. Cars with guages do not have the resistance wire, the wire is marked the same green with red tracer also, but no marking do not cut or splice. An ohmmeter will tell if you have the correct resistance needed.

marv

Congrats on getting it going and good find!! If the Alt ever quits charging check the bulb in the dash first because of previous post. Found out the embarrassing (and expensive)way that the bulb is needed to complete the circuit.

Steve

Glad you got it working, Looks like the alternator/regulator combo you have works the same as the motorcraft internaly regulated system. It needs a working Gen light circuit to excite the field so it will turn on.

Figured it out this afternoon. The switched side wire to the lamp was almost severed under the dash. When the light wouldn't respond the same way twice I started tracing wires and found it. I had it hooked up right but with that wire lose it wouldn't start the alternator charging. Thanks for the input from all though!

Germantown, (Memphis) TN

Iceookie,

What I did was run a new 10 ga wire from the BAT terminal of the Alt to the battery post of the solenoid.(and that was it) For the light, I ran a new, seperate wire from the pigtail all the way to the light.(couldn't figure which wire was what) Then all the original wires to the Generator I taped and secured individually. For the original, generator voltage regulator, I removed the wires, cut off the terminals, and coated the ends with brush on insulation sealant.(brush on tape is the common name) I then tucked the wires back to the regulator for looks. You shouldn't use any of the original wiring for the piggyback regulators. Hope this helps. As I said before, I also did this with a more factory setup using a conventional alternator regulator(65 Mustang) directly in place of the generator regulator and the alternator you are using. Don't give up. These sites have a wealth of info.



Steve.

You may have a bad regulator, have you tryed reving the engine after starting to allow the alternator to turn on. It's basicly a 1 wire setup so it will require about 1500 rpm to turn on, after that it will charge at idle.

You could also run a wire from the ground (black wire) terminal to insure you have a good ground, Ford always ran a ground wire to the block. You woud think bolting it to the engine would be good for ground but FOrd ran the wire for a reason.

My 91-97 Escort alternator works fine without the seprate ground but it does need the Gen light wire to excite the field so it turns on at idle.

Wish I could be more help