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By iceokie - 13 Years Ago
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So next on the list is to ditch my generator for an alternator. I'm going to keep my Ford a Ford. The problem is I've always used a Delco three wire.
I know what "BAT" is. I know that one goes to the + on the starter solenoid.
Next is a post (marked STA) with a white wire.
A post (marked AA) with a green wire.
Then a pigtail with a red wire (marked CC)
Finally a stud (marked BB) with a black wire. I assume this is a ground.
So thats the alternator back. I was told to take the wire from the AMP tab on the voltage regulator and combine it with the wire on the BAT tab. Then connect the larger gauge wire from the generator back (BAT) to the BAT post on the new alternator. I don't have an idiot light in my dash for the generator but I want one. Can anyone tell me how to wire all this up correctly?
Made all my brackets tonight just need to get it wired. I hate electrical. Thanks.
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By 292fan - 13 Years Ago
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iceokie,
I used what looks like a similar product from falconparts.com with good results. I have included their instructions in the link below. The only difference would be the indicator light wire. What is referenced as orange in the instructions i included would be the red wire with the plug in your picture. I have also done this conversion with the same alt but with a regular alt regulator from a 65 Mustang wired in. Very easy as well. I have a schematic for that if you want it.
http://www.falconparts.com/ford-falcon-auto-parts/pc/d18.htm
Hope this helps.
Steve
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By iceokie - 13 Years Ago
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Steve, that was a good write up but I've still done something wrong.
I removed the old generator. I hooked the 8ga wire that was on the generator to the BAT post on the new alternator. That wire runs to the BAT post on the old voltage regulator. I also moved the the 8ga wire that was on the ARM tab to the BAT tab on the voltage regulator. So I have two 8ga wires on the voltage regulators BAT post.
Then I connect the old white wire from the generator FLD to the red pigtail on the alternator. That wire runs over and is connected to the wire leading to the GEN dash light. If I turn the key with this setup I do not get a dash light.
If I take the wire leading from the pigtail (old white wire) and the wire leading from the GEN dash light and connect them both on the FLD post of the voltage regulator I get a GEN dash light when I turn the key. But the light stays on when running.
In both cases the engine will die if you remove the POS battery cable. So its obviously not making current. I was told to wire it this way if I wanted to keep the voltage regulator for appearance. I'm stumped, I followed the directions I was given and its real similar to a Chevy setup.
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By oldcarmark - 13 Years Ago
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Theres a wiring diagram on a previous post.Basically it should be wired this way. Alt "F" to "F" on regulator.Alt "S" to "S" on regulator.Alt "B" has heavy wire to battery side of solenoid.Second wire from "B" terminal on alt to "A" on regulator.This needs to be 2 completely separate wires.Dont splice 2 wires together. Ground on alt to good ground."G" on regulator to ground. "I" terminal on reg. is the wire to dash light.If you check this info against what you have done you should find the problem.
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By kevink1955 - 13 Years Ago
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Take the 2 wires that are on the field terminal of the old regulator and connect them together but do not put them back on the regulator then connect the old generator field wire to the loose connector on the new alt. Leaving the wires on the old regulator puts a ground on the gen lite circuit and it will stay grounded as the old regulator never sees any current because the generator is gone. Also, testing alternators by removing the battery cable while the engine is runing is not a good idea. You could damage the alternator and regulator. Use a volt meter across the battery, 12 v before starting the engine should increse by at least 1 1/2 volts (13.5) when runing. Also some alternators need a quick bilp of the throtle to make them turn on, once they turn on they will continue to charge at idle.
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By oldcarmark - 13 Years Ago
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Is the alternator in this topic internal regulator or external?The wiring info I posted is for external old style regulator.You are better off to remove the old generator regulator and wire harness from generator to regulator and make a new one scratch from the alternator to the new external regulator.The method Kevink is describing is for internal regulator I think?
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By iceokie - 13 Years Ago
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kevin, thats exactly how I have it wired an I get no ALT light on the dash.
mark, the alternator in the image has a regulator mounted on the back.
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By junkyardjeff - 13 Years Ago
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I have the Ford external regulated alternator system on my 55,cant tell you which wire goes where right now but I extended the wires and put the regulator in the original location and hooked the wire for the gen light on the I terminal on the regulator and the light works like it should. I think there was a heavy wire that went to the regulator and I just used it for a power lead to the horn relay and ran another heavy wire from the batt terminal on the alternator to the solenoid instead of extending that wire to the alternator,the field and stator wires I just left connected to the alternator and regulator and cut the harness in half from the donor vehicle and extended them.
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By kevink1955 - 13 Years Ago
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You may have a bad regulator, have you tryed reving the engine after starting to allow the alternator to turn on. It's basicly a 1 wire setup so it will require about 1500 rpm to turn on, after that it will charge at idle. You could also run a wire from the ground (black wire) terminal to insure you have a good ground, Ford always ran a ground wire to the block. You woud think bolting it to the engine would be good for ground but FOrd ran the wire for a reason. My 91-97 Escort alternator works fine without the seprate ground but it does need the Gen light wire to excite the field so it turns on at idle. Wish I could be more help
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By 292fan - 13 Years Ago
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Iceookie,
What I did was run a new 10 ga wire from the BAT terminal of the Alt to the battery post of the solenoid.(and that was it) For the light, I ran a new, seperate wire from the pigtail all the way to the light.(couldn't figure which wire was what) Then all the original wires to the Generator I taped and secured individually. For the original, generator voltage regulator, I removed the wires, cut off the terminals, and coated the ends with brush on insulation sealant.(brush on tape is the common name) I then tucked the wires back to the regulator for looks. You shouldn't use any of the original wiring for the piggyback regulators. Hope this helps. As I said before, I also did this with a more factory setup using a conventional alternator regulator(65 Mustang) directly in place of the generator regulator and the alternator you are using. Don't give up. These sites have a wealth of info.
Steve.
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By iceokie - 13 Years Ago
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Figured it out this afternoon. The switched side wire to the lamp was almost severed under the dash. When the light wouldn't respond the same way twice I started tracing wires and found it. I had it hooked up right but with that wire lose it wouldn't start the alternator charging. Thanks for the input from all though!
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By kevink1955 - 13 Years Ago
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Glad you got it working, Looks like the alternator/regulator combo you have works the same as the motorcraft internaly regulated system. It needs a working Gen light circuit to excite the field so it will turn on.
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By 292fan - 13 Years Ago
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Congrats on getting it going and good find!! If the Alt ever quits charging check the bulb in the dash first because of previous post. Found out the embarrassing (and expensive)way that the bulb is needed to complete the circuit.
Steve
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By marvh - 13 Years Ago
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292fan (11/13/2011)
Congrats on getting it going and good find!! If the Alt ever quits charging check the bulb in the dash first because of previous post. Found out the embarrassing (and expensive)way that the bulb is needed to complete the circuit.
Steve
You can fix that problem of an alternator not charging should the indicator light bulb burn out by adding a resistance wire parallel to bulb circuit.
One end of the bulb circuit connects to the "I" side of the ignition switch and the other end is connected to the regulator. To hook up the resistance wire; splice one end of the resistance wire to same "I post on the ignition switch and the other end of the resistance wire splice to the bulb wire past the gen bulb.
Factory installed a 14-17 ohm resistance wire to prevent this no charging just in case the bulb did burn out on cars with alternators. I look for early 70's cars with idiot lights for this wire in the under dash wiring loom. It is a green wire with red tracer marked "do not cut or splice resistance wire", take the whole length of wire out with the staked terminals and a short piece of the copper wire on each end. Do not shorten the resistance wire or you will change its value. Cars with guages do not have the resistance wire, the wire is marked the same green with red tracer also, but no marking do not cut or splice. An ohmmeter will tell if you have the correct resistance needed.
marv
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By iceokie - 13 Years Ago
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I'll always tell a good one on myself, so I'll share.
Drove it a bunch yesterday, alt was charging just like its supposed to. The bracket I fabbed is perfectly aligned and nice and sturdy. The only downside to the new rig is its a bear to tighten it up. The nut is just in a wonky kind of place.
So, while I was working on it and finding my problem, the thought crossed my mind that I should really buy a new belt while I was doing it so I wouldn't have to get it adjusted and tightened again. But, the belt looked pretty good, it was old but still functional so I just used it.
So, I'm driving home from church tonight . . . and you can guess the rest.
Made it home, I was close. You'd think at age 52 I'd start listening to that little voice in my head.
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By kevink1955 - 13 Years Ago
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I hate when stuff like that happens, thanks for admiting it. Nice to know I am not the only one to do things like that. You did get side tracked a little with the electrical issues so you have an excuse.
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By rick55 - 13 Years Ago
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[quote]You'd think at age 52 I'd start listening to that little voice in my head.[/quote
I've got 10 years on you and I still do that sort of thing. That's what that little voice in your head is for.
Regards
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By 292fan - 13 Years Ago
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Hey guys, the voices aren't age discriminate either. At 42 I have 'em. Kept telling me to "put the drain plug in you fool". Repeatedly. Well 5 quarts later and still no oil on the stick, with me scratching my head; I walked in front of the car and fell in a puddle of fresh oil. BINGO! What a dufus.
Anyway, that's my story and learned to listen to my voices.(well, some of them at least)
Have a good one!
292fan
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