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MarkMontereyBay
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 Years Ago
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I have the Tbird running finally. Started on the first crank and ran it at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. No issues other than a small oil leak at the valve cover. Using the old gaskets until I finish all the adjustments. I had to use the stock exhaust manifolds/exhaust so I could hear what was going on and used the stock 4bbl and manifold as well to be sure all would fire off correctly instead of the 3x2's that haven't been tried out. Did a warm valve adjust at 19 but need to go through them again later. I had the transmission drained for torque converter work and shift shaft seal replacement. I put 6 quarts of Type F in before starting but couldn't run it through the gears at 2000 RPM. Has me a little anxious and added the remaining fluid. Ran it through the gears on the jack stands and it shifts okay. Fluid is not burnt. Going to let it down off the jacks, do some final stuff and see if I can get it up and down the street later. Doesn't want to shift into drive without stalling unless the idle is up due to the Mummert 270 cam. Once the headers are on with new exhaust hopefully I can tune it down some.
57 Black Tbird 312/auto
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YellowWing
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 11 Years Ago
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Congratulations, it is always exciting and a little nerve racking when you fire them up for the first time. Wise choice not to change too many things at one time, never know which one is causing you grief when you do. Mike
1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO) Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ
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mctim64
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 Years Ago
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Good job! sounds like you made it through the hardest part. Now just figure the trans.
God Bless. Tim http://yblockguy.com/ 350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor
tim@yblockguy.com Visalia, California Just west of the Sequoias
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MarkMontereyBay
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 Years Ago
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Tim,
The Fordomatic survived the road test, shifts fine. Installed a Mummert valley cover and used a Ford Taurus 3.8L V6 90degree PCV. It may be the wrong calibration. I plugged it and reset the carb mix and speed. Still wants to stall but much better on trans engagement. I sold Matco tools for awhile back in the mid 80's and when I folded it all up before going back to wrenching at the dealership, I kept a large amount of stuff I thought might need someday. Used some things that were untouched: cylinder leakdown tester, cam bearing remover/installer. piston ring filer, piston ring compressor, etc. I replaced the cam, cam bearings, lifters, heads, pushrods, reconditioned rockers and shafts. and honed the cylinders for new rings. I used Gibbs break-in oil and Comp Cams additive and Isky MolyLube. How long should I go before changing the oil?
57 Black Tbird 312/auto
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569104
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Years Ago
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Mark, Sounds like lots of good progress. On the engine Tim built for me, he advised changing the oil after the first 500 miles. By the way I signed up for Pleasanton Goodguys show today. Barring any major hurdles, I will arrive Friday the 26 and leave Sunday the 28th. If you are coming up it would nice to meet you. I don't know how to do PM's so here is my email: ghg5@frontiernet.net
1956 F100 Big Window 309ci Y-block, 1956 F100 small window 272ci Y-block Greg. Mountains of North Eastern CA
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Oldmics
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
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PICTURES-PICTURES-PICTURES We need one of those "THIS THREAD IS WORTHLESS WITHOUT PICTURES" emotlcons. Seriously-I would love to see some engine and car pictures Oldmics
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MarkMontereyBay
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 Years Ago
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Oldmics,
Yep..I always feel the same about pics with threads like these. I think that Pops(Clay) wins this deal hands down for photo journalism. My Bird has to go through some clean up and details before I can get some pics ready. Looks pretty ragged with the old manifolds and carb on it, the car is dusty and messy from a year or so in the garage. Should be getting the headers on next week and finishing up the 3x2 fuel lines, regulator, fuel block plus rebuilding/modifying the center Holley 2110 carb. The secondaries are done and the linkage is set up.
57 Black Tbird 312/auto
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LordMrFord
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Years Ago
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Oldmics (8/3/2011)
PICTURES-PICTURES-PICTURES We need one of those "THIS THREAD IS WORTHLESS WITHOUT PICTURES" emotlcons. Seriously-I would love to see some engine and car pictures Oldmics ...and video with sounds would be priceless.
Hyvinkää, FI
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MarkMontereyBay
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 Years Ago
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Here is what it looks like so far, stock looking at this point. I ordered a Speedway carb kit for the center carb and need to figure out what kind of fuel line and block to use for the triple 2bbls. Going to follow Ted's instructions to modify it for ported vacuum advance. Need to find a fitting with a vacuum hose nipple for that. Still deciding on what color to use on the headers flat silver or satin black. I also need to get a new correct size battery for the battery box, using the one out my F100 now: [url ][/url] " target=_"blank" class="SmlLinks">
57 Black Tbird 312/auto
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aussiebill
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
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MarkMontereyBay (8/4/2011)
Here is what it looks like so far, stock looking at this point. I ordered a Speedway carb kit for the center carb and need to figure out what kind of fuel line and block to use for the triple 2bbls. Going to follow Ted's instructions to modify it for ported vacuum advance. Need to find a fitting with a vacuum hose nipple for that. Still deciding on what color to use on the headers flat silver or satin black. I also need to get a new correct size battery for the battery box, using the one out my F100 now: [url ][/url] " target=_"blank" class="SmlLinks"> Mark, what was the noticed difference with the new heads, or too early to tell.
AussieBill YYYY Forever Y Block YYYY Down Under, Australia
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