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By MarkMontereyBay - 13 Years Ago
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I have the Tbird running finally. Started on the first crank and ran it at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. No issues other than a small oil leak at the valve cover. Using the old gaskets until I finish all the adjustments. I had to use the stock exhaust manifolds/exhaust so I could hear what was going on and used the stock 4bbl and manifold as well to be sure all would fire off correctly instead of the 3x2's that haven't been tried out. Did a warm valve adjust at 19 but need to go through them again later. I had the transmission drained for torque converter work and shift shaft seal replacement. I put 6 quarts of Type F in before starting but couldn't run it through the gears at 2000 RPM. Has me a little anxious and added the remaining fluid. Ran it through the gears on the jack stands and it shifts okay. Fluid is not burnt. Going to let it down off the jacks, do some final stuff and see if I can get it up and down the street later. Doesn't want to shift into drive without stalling unless the idle is up due to the Mummert 270 cam. Once the headers are on with new exhaust hopefully I can tune it down some.
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By YellowWing - 13 Years Ago
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Congratulations, it is always exciting and a little nerve racking when you fire them up for the first time. Wise choice not to change too many things at one time, never know which one is causing you grief when you do. Mike
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By mctim64 - 13 Years Ago
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Good job! sounds like you made it through the hardest part. Now just figure the trans.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 13 Years Ago
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Tim,
The Fordomatic survived the road test, shifts fine. Installed a Mummert valley cover and used a Ford Taurus 3.8L V6 90degree PCV. It may be the wrong calibration. I plugged it and reset the carb mix and speed. Still wants to stall but much better on trans engagement. I sold Matco tools for awhile back in the mid 80's and when I folded it all up before going back to wrenching at the dealership, I kept a large amount of stuff I thought might need someday. Used some things that were untouched: cylinder leakdown tester, cam bearing remover/installer. piston ring filer, piston ring compressor, etc. I replaced the cam, cam bearings, lifters, heads, pushrods, reconditioned rockers and shafts. and honed the cylinders for new rings. I used Gibbs break-in oil and Comp Cams additive and Isky MolyLube. How long should I go before changing the oil?
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By 569104 - 13 Years Ago
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Mark, Sounds like lots of good progress. On the engine Tim built for me, he advised changing the oil after the first 500 miles. By the way I signed up for Pleasanton Goodguys show today. Barring any major hurdles, I will arrive Friday the 26 and leave Sunday the 28th. If you are coming up it would nice to meet you. I don't know how to do PM's so here is my email: ghg5@frontiernet.net
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By Oldmics - 13 Years Ago
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PICTURES-PICTURES-PICTURES We need one of those "THIS THREAD IS WORTHLESS WITHOUT PICTURES" emotlcons. Seriously-I would love to see some engine and car pictures  Oldmics
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By MarkMontereyBay - 13 Years Ago
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Oldmics,
Yep..I always feel the same about pics with threads like these. I think that Pops(Clay) wins this deal hands down for photo journalism. My Bird has to go through some clean up and details before I can get some pics ready. Looks pretty ragged with the old manifolds and carb on it, the car is dusty and messy from a year or so in the garage. Should be getting the headers on next week and finishing up the 3x2 fuel lines, regulator, fuel block plus rebuilding/modifying the center Holley 2110 carb. The secondaries are done and the linkage is set up.
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By LordMrFord - 13 Years Ago
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Oldmics (8/3/2011)
PICTURES-PICTURES-PICTURES We need one of those "THIS THREAD IS WORTHLESS WITHOUT PICTURES" emotlcons. Seriously-I would love to see some engine and car pictures Oldmics
...and video with sounds would be priceless.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 13 Years Ago
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Here is what it looks like so far, stock looking at this point. I ordered a Speedway carb kit for the center carb and need to figure out what kind of fuel line and block to use for the triple 2bbls. Going to follow Ted's instructions to modify it for ported vacuum advance. Need to find a fitting with a vacuum hose nipple for that. Still deciding on what color to use on the headers flat silver or satin black. I also need to get a new correct size battery for the battery box, using the one out my F100 now:
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By aussiebill - 13 Years Ago
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MarkMontereyBay (8/4/2011)
Here is what it looks like so far, stock looking at this point. I ordered a Speedway carb kit for the center carb and need to figure out what kind of fuel line and block to use for the triple 2bbls. Going to follow Ted's instructions to modify it for ported vacuum advance. Need to find a fitting with a vacuum hose nipple for that. Still deciding on what color to use on the headers flat silver or satin black. I also need to get a new correct size battery for the battery box, using the one out my F100 now: [url ][/url] " target=_"blank" class="SmlLinks"> Mark, what was the noticed difference with the new heads, or too early to tell.
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By John Mummert - 13 Years Ago
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Mark, glad to hear you have the Bird running. You will need to put some initial timing in it. Usually 12-14 idle timing. The 57 distributors advance a lot so you might need to limit it or you will have 40+ at full advance. Adding to the initial should allow the engine to idle down to 600 rpm which will be much easier on the FOM.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 13 Years Ago
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Thanks John,
I set the initial at 14 last night and the idle is down now. Need to spend some time with the carb idle mix and fast idle. It engages drive without stalling now if fully warmed (still need to re-install the T-stat which I left out for the break-in), but reverse is still stalling unless I finesse the gas pedal . I drove it a few miles today. The rings must have seated during the break-in, no sign of smoke on acceleration at all. No blow by with the PCV plugged off. I have a set of 225/75R 15's that came with my 65 Galaxie which are much taller than the 225/60R 15's that are usually on the Bird. I romped on it two or three times through first and into second, maybe 3/4 throttle and can feel a major improvement even with the tall tires, stock manifolds and 450cfm Holley. After I swap the Torque Thrust wheels/tires, add the headers, T-stat, another valve adjust(still too noisy after the last .019) and a few more miles to sort things out I will give it a good run. I had to replace three of the rocker arm adjusters which were too loose to hold the adjustment. I had box of Ford replacements stuffed back in a drawer, (7/16 nuts instead of 1/2 maybe for FE's?) so I need to check the lash again.
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By Ol Ford Guy - 13 Years Ago
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Mark,
With all of those nice tools you have, I wish I lived closer to you.
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By PF Arcand - 13 Years Ago
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Mark: Re the Fordomatic. Don't know if this info will help the stallling situation or not, but my 57s glove box plaque says to use type "A" fluid..
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By MarkMontereyBay - 13 Years Ago
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Paul,
Thanks for the info. The stalling has just about cleared up. I am working on getting the Sanderson headers on and making some heat shields for the plug boots. At the same time working on the 3x2 94/Edelbrock 573 set up. Lots of little things slowing these projects down. I have been using F type in the Tbird and my original 65 Galaxie Cruisomatic for a long time. If I remember correctly, Type A was discontinued in 68? because it contained whale oil and after the whaling moratorium, Type F was the replacement. Not sure what Type A is today.
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By PF Arcand - 13 Years Ago
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Mark: I believe type "A" auto trans fluid is now known as Dextron or Dextron 2
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By famdoc3 - 13 Years Ago
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I have been thinking about the Sandersons for my T'bird to. When you get them on would you please post pictures and let us know how the install went? MIKE
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By MarkMontereyBay - 13 Years Ago
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Mike,
Your timing is impecable...I just finished putting them on about an hour ago. Pretty easy compared to my FE 65 Galaxie. The passenger side is straight forward. I have the heater blower motor and ducting out for access. You have to finesse the dipstick tube a bit to bolt it to the header but not hard. The drivers side is easier if you take the battery out and the battery box side panel off. Kind of a tight fit getting the collector between the outboard side of the steering column and the inner fender but a little persuasion got it done. I made some heat shields for the plug boots as the originals won't fit under the header tubes. I used the originals as a pattern using some sheet metal from Home Depot. I have been around and around with Sanderson's leaking on my FE motor. Tried several high-zoot gaskets which all failed. Sanderson's says use high temp black silicone, and I finally took the advice. The best way to do it on the Tbird is apply the bead of black stuff around each (clean) port on the head. Then install the header with the bolts only finger tight; snug but not torqued. Let the silicone cure for a few hours then tighten up the header bolts. I drove my neighbors apeshat running the engine with open headers today. Sounds great! Driving it that way 8 miles to the muffler shop in the morning. I have never driven a Y block that gets it like this one does now. Going to have to go easy on the Fordomatic. Hoping to have the 3x2 setup on next week.
I'll get some photos up after the exhaust is installed. I am beat tonight. Trying get all this done by tomorrow. Friday I will be at Laguna Seca Raceway in Monterey for the Historic Vintage Car Races. Friday is good for being in the pits and talking with the racers.
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By Y block Billy - 13 Years Ago
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Bill, I think the noticable difference will be instead of needing a set of tires once a year, he will be needing a set once a month!
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