how about an old soft flex hose     sorry just read the first post  i'll go back to sleep 

stuey

 

Yeah Hoosier, the front resvoir is a lot bigger.  I thought all 68 bronco's were 4-wheel drum master cylinders?  I got the idea from this post

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic26295-9-2.aspx

In either case, even if the master cylinder was disc/drum wouldn't it still have residual pressure valve for the rear circuit?  If so I should be getting a firm pedal for the rear circuit anyway right?   The last time I bled a disc/drum car, once I tightenedthe bleeder on the rear wheel cylinders, the pedal got much harder to push for bleeding the fronts.  I'm getting no firmness after closing off the rear bleeders.  Hopefully a big air bubble will burp out tonight with by brother at the pedal.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

How about checking with the supplier of the master?Is it drum/drum or disc/drum.If its the latter I can tell you where you can purchase a couple of external residual check valves so you can use the master you have.You dont need special equipment to bleed the sysytem.Manual bleeding works.However you do need to check the master.Other question is-is the master returning to full released position or is the pushrod you are using too long not allowing the master cylinder to return to full release position?

  

I think Hoosier and Oldcar might be on to something.  I spent an hour and half last night with my brother at the brake pedal, we put more than 1.5 pints of fluid through the system, no bubbles, and no change in pedal feel.  Still needs to pumps of the pedal to get a firm pedal.  And once it is firm, it is really firm, doesn't move or fade.

I'm worried that I need a residual pressure valve in the front circuit.  I'm not sure why, everything I've read says that all 68-75 Brocos were drum/drum and that is what this master cylinder is listed for.  Most things I read say a drum/drum MC should have residual valves built in?  It is very frustrating that I can't find specific specs on this master cylinder.  It is a Cardone 10-1390, even the data on the cardone site is worthless...it says nothing that gives me any confidence that this has residual valves on both circuits.

The other question I have is when adjusting my front drums, I can spin the wheel backwards quite easily...the wheel spins almost freely....but as soon as I switch direction and try to spin in forward, it stops immediately.  Which direction should I be spinning to when adjusting the brakes.  It seems when I sping the wheel foward the brakes are grabbing, but they spin too easy in the reverse direction.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

It is possible the master cylinder was boxed wrong when you got it.  Can you call up the cylinder on one of the hational chain auto parts websites and then view a picture of it?  That would give you something to compare yours to.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Yeah, I can pull up the photo and it seems to be the right MC for the part number.  I'm just stumped, unless my brakes aren't adjusted well.  But I've been adjusting them on the tight side, so I can't imagine they are so far off adjustment that I have this much pedal travel.  I guess I could just try adjusting them really tight all the way, just to see what my pedal feels like.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

Are you sure everything is assembled correctly? The wheel turning issue is not right. Are the shoes reversed so they are incorrectly self actuating. If they are on right then adjust them until you cannot turn the wheel either direction. This sets the shoes against the drum. Then back the adjuster until it turns freely with just a little drag. Do all 4 wheels the same then try again. While you have the drums off recheck everything.

Which push rod did you use from the pedal to master cylinder? They come in different lengths and can affect the pedal travel. The bolt that holds the rod to the pedal arm should be an eccentric so you can turn it to get more or less travel on the brake pedal. Turn that for max travel (higher pedal) and see what happens. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Nate, dont know answer to whatever you,re doing but old mechanics trick is to squeeze off rear brake hose at diff with vycegrip type clamp and check if pedal pressure becomes firm, that indicates problem is at rear brakes. If that doesnt change then try same thing at front hoses, one side at a time. this is to rule out the problem is at wheel cyl area.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Moonshadow.  I've already double checked the assembly, but I'll check again the assembly.  If I back off the adjuster nut, I can turn the wheel freely in both directions.  However as I expand the adjuster nut all of a sudden at a certain point, the wheel just locks in the forward direction.  I can turn it backwards easily still, but forwards it is like it is like it has a one-way ratched, and the shoes are grabbing and self-energizing with just the effort of my hand turning the tire.

Driving in the driveway this wasn't noticeable, it wasn't like the front wheels were dragging or anything.  In fact, other than having to pump the pedal twice the brakes really work well.  The car stops abruptly as soon as I get the pressure on the second pump of the pedal.

I'm using an adjustable rod I had laying around, I adjusted it so that it is just contacting the master cylinder pistone when the brake pedal is in the completely retracted position.   The MC came with a push rod, but it was like 4 inches too long for the brake pedal set up in the car.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

Did you tighten the adjusters until you couldn't turn the wheels either way then back them off? That sets the brakes to the drum. Also how much freeplay, downward movement, it there in the pedal before it gets hard? Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire