It's tight, but there's enough room to get a squeeze bottle/tube for filling in there. There's quite a bit of room when you look at it from the side...

Todd in Central California...about half way between Fresno and Sacramento

1956 Thunderbird - 1960 F-100 - 1961 Starliner - 1961 Imperial

Todd ,

I have no problem with the pics on either site. My son brought down the bumper over the holidays from Sacramento,Wow it is in great shape Thanks

Could you please post a measurement from the front of the frame horns to the axle centerline? I am puting the Gibbon/cordoba ifs on the truck I am working on, and although the swap is supposed to address the fender opening issue I would like to check before moving to much further along

John

John,

Glad you could use the bumper...hard to beat if you need a heavy set-up to actually use as a bumper.

Once we get the truck back to a roller, I'll measure the c/l for you.

Todd

Todd in Central California...about half way between Fresno and Sacramento

1956 Thunderbird - 1960 F-100 - 1961 Starliner - 1961 Imperial

Poof!  Magic...I can see the photos now.  I logged in several times today and changed nothing but now is the first time the photos showed up.  Thanks to whoever fixed it!

   

1956 F100 Big Window 309ci Y-block,  1956 F100 small window 272ci Y-block

Greg.  Mountains of North Eastern CA

Weird! Glad you can see them now...makes it a lot more interesting (I think) 

I didn't do anything to the pictures...I did do a few thing on the truck though

Everything that needs to be filled on the firewall is filled, and has been wire wheeled & wiped down...ready for paint.

Painted the firewall with bed liner paint (textured) as it should be more forgiving that conventional paint over all of the welded holes, and more durable against the salt at Bonneville


Next up is a healthy dose of POR-15 on the frame rails. Gotta get this area ready to party, or else it will look like a junkyard against the rebuilt & pretty axle assembly that Tim just got done with.

Also, the dash is now almost competely gutted, save for the wipers, the hack job radio, and a coupe final lingering items

While gutting the dash, I pulled the pedal ass'y out and removed the manual clutch arm, thus turning the pedal into a '57-61 version which will facilitate the hydraulic clutch.

My long weekend is now coming to a close, so a pizza & movie bight with the wifey is an appropriate way to puctuate the day


Todd in Central California...about half way between Fresno and Sacramento

1956 Thunderbird - 1960 F-100 - 1961 Starliner - 1961 Imperial

Awesome job!...and way more impressive with photos!  I wish you guys lived a little farther north...I can sure use some friends that have the skills you both have.  Thanks for sharing here though!

   

1956 F100 Big Window 309ci Y-block,  1956 F100 small window 272ci Y-block

Greg.  Mountains of North Eastern CA

Good job Todd!  Looks like we are "Go" for the 15th, I'll be up there with axles and then we can be off to look at the next project.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

In a previous thread  - when Charlie B. was still working on his little merc - he said the front axle of the Yellow Brick was tipped back to 8° caster. What are you guys shooting for?

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

The hydraulic pedal also has a fitting for a return spring, much like the brake pedal has. I can post a picture of an original 61-66 hydraulic pedal if needed but I'm sure you'll figure something out. It's pretty much the same as the manual pedal, minus one thing and plus another.

When you have you clutch cylinder, you'll probably find that the lid won't come off with the cylinder mounted. The replacements come with plastic lids. Originals lids are metal and thinner and may be a solution. Alternatively, the clearance can be made with a little grinding.

If you don't already have a pushrod, a trip to the junk yard should provide a brake push rod and eccentric bolt. The length is different, I think you'll have to shorten it, but the pedal end of that hardware is the same for the clutch and brake.

Also, when you have the cylinder, would you measure the bore and mounting hole centers. I tried doing this conversion a few months ago and ran into all kinds of problems. It looks like the stock brake master cylinder, but it's not the same, or at least they have different part numbers.



Lawrenceville, GA

Great work Todd.  You guys are going to have one exciting truck.  Knowing Tim, it will be extremely fast as well.

Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)







BurnsRacing981@gmail.com