You could check with John Mummert. He sells a couple stroker kits. He uses Probes and they're a TON lighter than the TRW's. Hoosier runs them in the Hurricane.

   I agree with Gary's critique of the photo, awesome photo. However in the photo before, your colors clash man!!!

  charlie, this is sheer guesswork on my part, but I suspect the results would be similar. The old trucks just had more frontal area. I think the relation ship to the bed would be about the same. Maybe less since the "stepside" style beds were smaller in relation to the size of the cab. Charlie and Tim could probably come close to an answer because their trucks represent two totally different styles. With known Hp and top speed you could calculate the (drag) cd. 

       I think you will find the base of the windsheild is a high pressure area. We often use that area for intake air. But, it's probably not as high as the air under the hood. If you can run an air dam under the front bumper, that will create low pressure under the engine. Otherwise it's probably pretty high under there. That'd be the reason for "belly pans" which I'd bet you can't run.

   I'd guess Tim has the nose down to create some low pressure under the truck. Kills lift and helps the engine cooling.

       You will like the X pipe. I run one on my F code. Car runs the same ET'S and MPH with mufflers and the X pipe as it does with an old set of Hedmanns and 18" tubes. With the Headers I removed the entire exhaust system and left it in the garage, so the car was 75 (?) pounds lighter, and no faster than the muffled runs. Most of the benefits seem to be low to mid range, but there is some top end help as well. Maybe Ted has some idea why, I don't.

  One part of my brain knew that, and another part typed "low".  Now if I could just introduce those two I know they would get along.  There are so many thoughts rattling around in there it is amazing that I get things right from time to time.

       My problem is similar I'll get the right answer, but then I have to "correct" myself. Then I forget both answers and start all over again...........  The truck's starting to look close to being ready. Should be one heck of a ride.

We've been waiting and working for nigh onto 50 years for this.   

     Tim's running real well now for an Iron headed Y. 50+ year old heads against Dart parts, and he's competitive. The Dart stuff is good.  

I will agree with you on the Toyota thing, however it is what it is. I made parts for the big three for better than 35 years, I've seen foundries and a other auto parts manufacturing dissappear, to be replaced by Wal-Marts and "Service Sector" business's or worse. I am not a hater, but I'm not going to buy any Toyota's either.   

I drove my old '95 F-150 about 120,000 miles on business trips in Wyo, Montana and No Dakota. Not 135 mph - but often over 90 for long periods - and after trying all sorts of variations, I just quit trying. A "5th wheel" style tool box (flush with the bed rails ) and tailgate up were as good as anything else for mileage - so I just filled the two tanks and drove it.

Did the plenum air source work OK for the carb? I saw a picture with the carb hat on there and a duct.

On the way watch for one of those old tyme gas stations. It would make a great setting for your rig with race car in tow. Definitely a flash back to the 60's. Black and white would be something. Enjoy the salt and keep us updated. Your cab is probably crowded with all of us that are living vicariously through you. Chuck

Let us know when you are coming to New England. Maybe we could organize a meet with some of the Y's guys in this neck of the woods. Chuck in NH

What if the bed cover tapered down at the back until it was an inch or so below the tailgate?

They did a low speed test on Mythbusters about tail gate up or down for better fuel mileage. As I recall they found no real difference. Might be the wrong end to start on. I know air flow into the engine compartment has been a problem on many LSR cars and trucks. I think I would look at some ducting there to smoothly funnel the air in and out of the engine area. I would think positive air pressure would build up under the hood and act like an air dam at speed. My thoughts. Chuck

You are enabling our addiction! We've been drag racing with Elwood and running Bonnevile with You and Jake. The only way to make it better is to do it ourselves and for most of us if we could we would. So that leaves us with folks like you, Charlie, Ted, et al to live our dreams. I'm only glad that I get to watch and occasionally contribute a bit to this magnificent undertaking. Someday I hope to be able to come and watch the Y's fly!

Jealous in NH, Chuck

By the way, that old crash film made me think about a Mickey Rooney film from the late 40's. It was called "The Big Wheel".

http://www.archive.org/details/TheBigWheel

I believe its available online. Typical old movie but some good racing and race shop scenes. Chuck

I hope you have Nomex underware to cover the gap between your jacket and pants!   It looks like your back could be exposed in an emergency. One thing I just noticed although it might be left over tech from the 50's and 60's dirt tracks. We always welded ends or caps on the tubing in the cockpit so there were no open ends exposed (I noticed the ones behind your extingusher tanks). No matter how removed thay may be if you really get tossed around contact with an open pipe end can do some damage. The guys at the Salt Flats surely know a lot more about todays rules than I do.

I really am not being critical, the truck is beautiful and watching the build has inspired me to get some work done on my own stuff. Can't wait to see the truck go! Chuck in NH

Sorry to ramble. I'm sure your safe just making a point I guess. Chuck in NH

  I think you should leave the patina on the outside and paint some faded numbers and lettering for that "pulled out of the barn" look.  With the Y-block, they would think its a vintage racer.

Don't get me wrong, I love the picture, but you have to let me ramble.  Geaser ville, makes old looking things more apealing to me. Its your vision, go for it.

You have shown your FAB skills, so are you going to bend and weld the roll cage or use some sort of prebent kit? And will your wife let you bring the playpen out in the garage when its your turn to baby sit!!!!!!!! Congratulations and hope all goes well.

Have you and your wife thought of names, how about "Y-netta."

Did I miss the part where you told us how fast you went? Gotta love the patina on the 102 car, has he raced it a long time?

Your truck looked good in Y-Block mag. Looks better in color though.

I think you are doing an outstanding job.  You are building you own engines, I don't know who is doing the head work on your ports, you or someone else, but overall you are going fast because of your hard work.  I have always liked this project from when it arrived at Todd's to now. Record or not you should be very proud of your project.  Out running people with a bigger budget is icing on the cake.  As far as drag racing, it is not as "laid back" as LSR but I met and made lots of friends doing it and they would all help you no matter what brand you were racing, in general "throttle jockey's" are great people.

Has anyone tested the difference in under hood air preasures with and without the inner fender wells in front?

I'm not trying to beat a dead horse, but both the trucks "have" the inner fenders in place? I was going by some pictures on the thread and i thought they were "removed".

 Check out a movie called "Thunder in carolina" Late 50's stock car racing.  www.thevideobeat.com had it. Lots of other good Hot Rod and Racing movies.

We used some old aluminum diving boards for ramps, they were long enough to keep the headers and suspension from hitting and still light enough to make them easy to lift. Just a thought.

Things continue to look very good, can you elaborate on the "modified scrub " damper?  What did you modify to make it fit the crank.

I see you did get yourself one of those nifty water pumps.  Project is looking good. When is the first date for test run?

I almost had to hit Jyrki to our dragster with a baseball bat and to take him out we had to spray some oil to his driving suit . Next time I will spray him first and to take him out I just set the fire under the seat... .

Sfi 3.2A/20  is TTP 80 value and gives 40 seconds to survive without 2nd degree (Charlie) Burns .

Otherwise excellent stuff, could well be used as a desktop wallpaper...

I have with my brother been following this and others, a great Job, Brother told me not too post this... Just a pet peeve..

Mesquite

How low are you going with your stance?

dj

WOW!

Bring on the Y block powered race truck baby!

Something like this needs to be in one of the TV shows on cable/satellite. You know. The kind of show where a couple of guys are building something that everyone has seen before, it's so generic and run of the mill, there are 2 or 3 on your block, etc, etc. Hey! Not your truck - this thing is going to be awesome, man. NICE!

Nice Tim...we love it out here on the East Coast!

Tim, how did it go out there today?

Awesome. I know it's a race truck, but I would give good money to watch the looks on the faces of the Rice Burner Crowd when you passed them in the truck!!

NOW GO KICK SOME SCRUB BUTT!

Christmas is coming soon, lol!

? HA!HA!

                                   Michael

GM's newest baddest crate racing motor's most highlighted feature was shaft mounted rockers. took them over 50 years to catch on.

Yes, one for the driver and the other is NOS? thats for the engine isnt it, lol.

They are normal gasket locating areas in cover, tim is using plain gaskets without the tabs.

Tim, the pic of the truck would make great poster, make a few $ for the racng fund.

                 that might be gaining on you!!! Jokes aside, ya'lls project

                looks awesome...keep us informed.

                                           Bill

                and by all means, fill us in on that "Y-'to" that kicked our butt's

                at Columbus!                Bill

and... can you place an "adult beverage" that close to a grinding wheel in motion?

just wondering...!  enjoying the show like everyone else!

Mark

I've got a free weekend coming up... should I reverse my exhaust manifolds too??!!

Mark

I figured it was for "air brakes"!

how do you keep all those cool decals from coming off "at speed"??

Mark

two only a mom could love!

your project and esp the videos are the best defense for the existence of the internet and youtube!

WOW!!

Mark

Are your arms/wrists strapped down somehow?  Looks like it in the video...??

Mark

question: what are the clips on visible on the outer edge of the valve covers?

Mark

1. can the sound of the engine be heard the entire run?!

2. what kind of station do you have the radio on when you are speeding down the salt?

as others have already said, beautiful work... so glad I have come full circle and gotten into salt and hot rods after being away for so many years!

Mark

Mark

thought you were in beautiful California... the landscape in this vid could be lifted straight out of the Texas drought scene we're stuck in here!

oh well, guess it makes the truck look that much prettier!

thanks for sharing! its an inspiration.

Mark

Camping at the "Bend" and trying to get an early start to the pits and inspection on Thursday morning.

Waiting in line to be called to tech inspection.

Passed tech with flying colors.  Now in the pits waiting for the first run on Saturday morning.

More to follow in the coming days..........

The under hood air pressure management is really important.  However, the rule book says "...pickups with full stock bed, unaltered in height, width, and contour, with all panels mounted in the original relationship to each other...  They are pretty serious about this.  They consider even the bed floor a panel.  I once ran the exhaust up through the bed just behind the cab to blow holes in the low pressure area and the next year the rule book stopped that.

In both production and modified pickup, there is no blocking of the grille.  Some guys were blocking behind the radiator, but they stopped that too.  My approach this time is to manage the air flow in the engine compartment by allowing the air to escape at the back of the hood into the low pressure area at the base of the windshield.  You have seen the cowl vent hoods that are raised and open at the windshield area.  I don't know exactly what my raised hood requirements will be with the turbos, but when finished, it will definitely be open at the rear.

When the air has to slow down in any circumstance, it builds back pressure which will slow you down.  I constantly think of ways to help channel engine compartment air to the windshield without slowing it down.  Another problem is to also channel the air in such a way as to keep it from going under the race car at the bottom of the engine compartment.  (no belly pans)

Yesterday Chuck mentioned something very important.  Starting and staying on the good side of the tech inspectors is a must.  Pre inspections at Elmo like Tim did before the truck was finished and answering questions truthfully sure greases the skids on future inspections.

However, not all inspectors have the same view point.  Just like the racers interpret the rules differently, so do some of the inspectors and from time to time, they have to huddle and come up with a group decision.

At Bonneville last month I saw one entry get sidelined until a change was made.  It seems one inspector didn't like having a rubber boot on a shifter.  When asked by another inspector why they ruled that way, the inspector in question said, "Well, they wouldn't let me run my car with a rubber boot and this one will not either". 

The car was pitted next to us and when we found out, we did a little shopping for him as we needed something for Jake at the local parts store.  We came up with a questionable solution with a leather glove.  I don't recall, so Tim will have to comment as to whether they used it or not, but they did run and if they did use it, I bet I know which finger they used to slide down over the shifter.

Thanks for the correction on the "high" pressure at the base of the windshield.  One part of my brain knew that, and another part typed "low".  Now if I could just introduce those two I know they would get along.  There are so many thoughts rattling around in there it is amazing that I get things right from time to time.

In production pickup, Tim isn't able to run an air dam so being lowered in the front is his only defence against air being pushed under the truck.  In Modified pickup, I will use an air dam/splitter to move the air around to the outside as efficiently as possible.  Yes, you are correct, no belly pans in either class.

He thought that with my full size pickup, the low pressure behind the cab would be greater than his and that with the taller cab I might try starting the bed cover at the middle and work forward.  He also said to definitely have the tail gate up whether or not I ran a cover.

Unfortunately, there were so many changes made to the brick in later events that it would be impossible to determine if the cover and tailgate up made any positive difference.  However, you can bet I will have the Banks suggested bed cover and tailgate up on the new race truck. 

Chuck, all of your ideas make plenty of sense.  Most are used in other classes, however, too bad none are available in production pickup.  In addition, they are not allowed in my modified pickup class either.

If we don't see you sooner, I look forward to seeing you at Eagle Field. I know your part is about done, but I have really enjoyed your work and reports.

Todd has already done the lowering and I went up to his place a couple of weeks ago to get the front and rear axles to rebuild them and then take them back for install, so I stripped everything and started cleaning parts.

With everything dissmantled it all went into the hot tank.

After cleaning I installed a new set of 4.11 gears in the rear, turned all the drums, installed new hard 3" studs all the way round and fit new king pins and bushings.

bla bla bla

New Years Day it rained again but I was able to do some assembly work in the garage.  I was looking forward to a visit from Frank Rice who had just spent the night at Charlies but I got a call from him saying that he missed my turn off and was almost to Bakersfield already. Oh well, next time.

bla bla, I'm still having trouble posting but I'm working through it. bla bla

This is just a practice engine if you will, the heads are modified C1TE heads with 1.85" in and 1.54" ex I have done some port work and it will be going trough a set of home made headers with 1 3/4" primaries.  The cam is a special grind and that is all I will say for now, this whole engine is a bit of an experiment to see just what can be done with a modest bunch of parts.  Once I have a timing slip on the truck with this engine and it looks good I will share more details.   The real "race" engine is coming together right now and will be 350ci, more details to come.

here's a link to the head work or something close to it, the heads on this engine have a little more time in them.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=549186

bla bla bla

Off to El Mirage today! Weather looks good for the weekend although a little cold. No problem, I like dense air. God willing the old Y will pull the new 3.50 ratio and we will get close to that 150 mark.

Say a prayer and wish us luck!

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Thanks Royce!  The gears have to be correct if I ever want to get to 160.  The engine has a little trouble climbing in fourth but I think with a little tweeking we'll get it.  There's still a few tricks left.

Funny thing about that grill, it came with the truck and I didn't think anything about it so I left it in to cover the hole in the dash.  Come to find out that they're knida sought after.  Bonus!  The truck also came with a "Dodge" AM radio so I found a "FORD" one from '63 to replace it.

Yes, we all have to wear hand restraints.  They just barely let you reach the things you need to reach.

MoonShadow (12/3/2012)

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What music do you listen to over 140MPH? Chuck

Sweet Y music!

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Got back from Elmo yesterday. Went out there looking to top 140, it's a little harder to do it there than at Bonneville where we ran 142, when my first pass was done I had a timing slip that read 141.707! Not a bad day for me.

Only thing different is the carb (quick fuel 750an) and an X-pipe.

bla blabla

Thanks Greg!  Still running those 113 heads you gave me.  Thanks!

Two day meet so I hope to get in a minimum of four runs, gonna be a good time.  

The Master Cylinder (11/5/2012)

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This weekend??? Dang, Would have be fun to come out and spectate. I only live ~100 SW of El Mirage.

Good Luck

we'll be there Sat and Sun, do you already have plans?

JD, it may sound different in the two videos but I always run third out to 7000 rpm so I can come into fourth as high as possable.  First and second aren't so important but you really need the Rs in third if you want the top speed in fourth.  Just ask Charlie.

You can just do it here and then start looking around. 

Tman is Trent who helps us out at Bonneville, we are working on converting him to Y-Blocks and I think he's leaning our way. He is second from the left.

bla bla bla

Yep!

Here's a little something we are gonna try at Elmo next week see what it's good for.





I also removed a lot of un-necessary hanging stuff underneath.

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Cool!

Thank you! and yes I do my own head work, so far anyway, still thinking about a set of Johns heads.

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Park Olson (4/29/2012)

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Your stuff looks great, as usual, Tim, except for those dollar store jack stands,,,,

They are not your typical split pipe jack stands, they are a lot heavier than they look.  I've had them for 30 years and they are not dollar store.

No biggie, just sayin'.

bla

All done!

bla bla

Cheers!  More to come this weekend.  I'm finishing the balance on the crank tonight.

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Instead of just drilling into the counterweights I cut them down. This should keep the "windage" down. I also filled in the existing holes from the factory balance.

Pretty happy with the results. For those that don't know the windows at the top of the screen represent the amount of weight that the crank is off at the front (left) or rear (right) in grams. the window below is the angle at which it is to be removed. I started with about 50 grams at both ends. factory balance is usually within 10 grams. I have seen some, engines from the 70s mostly, that are out as much as 25. I think this one will rev nicely.

bla bla bla

My Nephew Robert also came along, I think he had a good time.

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Trying to get things ready for Elmo in May. Yesterday I did a little work on the engine, got it buttoned up on the bottom end. The heads are on the engine in the truck so I wont have them on till I pull the engine. That should be next weekend.



Also today I intalled the spool and 3.70 ratio, this will give 139 mph @ 6000 rpm, 151 @ 6500 and 163 @ 7000. That would give me a record at Elmo if I can pull 7k. We'll see.

bla bla

You got that right Keith! Even less to Elmo and I hope to do some shakedown runs before "Speedweek"

I'm glad someone can see them, I know we had this problem before but I just don't know why some see them and others don't.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7530264#post7530264

I don't understand.  I thought it might have to do with the file being in my HAMB profile (it's easier to load there then copy and paste) but if you can't see it there then what?  Can you see my pix on FB?

all the pix from post # 69237

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I've got both blocks cleaned up now and the rusty P.O.S. is not in too bad of shape. I did need to sleeve one cylinder but it was because of a crack not the rust. The crack may have come from me beating the piston out. One nice thing is when boring for the sleeve (1/8" wall) I went over 4" and never busted into water. This is a C2AE block.

After boring I relieved the block around the intake valves, the old gasket makes a nice mark to follow. Next I will align bore and "square" the decks to equal distance from the center line.
 

bla bla bla

I also had a chance to start on the balancing.

bla bla

Looks like We made it in another Mag! Classic trucks did a story on "Bonneville Trucks" and both Jake and the '58 mad it.



It also says "watch for a feature on his Uni in an upcoming issue".

Bla bla

landspeedy (1/22/2012)

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mctim64 (1/22/2012)

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Thanks Frank and Chuck!  I was talking with Ted this week and thanks to him there should be something to watch for this year at Bonneville from both "Jake" and Keith's '32.  Let's not forget Charlie Burns and his new "Yellow Thing".   Exciting times!

Happy New Year everyone,havent been on in a while.Looking forward to this coming speedweek,been dong some updates to the coupe,while Ted is "checking out the 343 Y.

Tim,if we bump into each other at the GNRS,maybe we can catch up over a $10 beer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'll be looking for you Keith.  I'll probably have on a Y-Block Guy Racing shirt.  See ya there!

Yes!  I believe it did help some although I think I will need different tires for Elmo than I use for Bonneville.

I made changes on all runs except for the #3 as the #2 run was a waste, the clutch didn't engage for fourth till I had lost my momentom and I only ran 115 mph.  I ran 122 for the first pass with 40* total advance then backed off to 35* and ran 118 on the third pass.  For the second day I bumped the timing back up to 40* and removed the mufflers, I also modified the "Air box" to work with the Mummert intake (the carb position is slightly different than the BT) then ran 126.01 mph.  For the last pass I brought the timing up to 43* total and ran 126.5.  That engine likes timing as did the "Brick".  Also after the first pass I lowered the pressure in the rear tires from 50 psi to 40 psi.

bla bla bla

BIGREDTODD (11/11/2011)

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Just curious, but what are you using for the human fire hydrant?

This is a different one, I still have a scrub to use as an outhouse.

Bla bla bla

Jake and the "Brew 102" car.  Two good ol' Fords.  The '53 Customline is running a 262 Ford six, did a best of 120 in XO/PRO.

This is Land Speed Racing!  Modifying parts in the field.  Jackie is doing her job also, note the tennis ball in her mouth.

Now the air box fits the Mummert intake.

"Brew 102"

bla bla bla

bla bla bla

Just a little over 6000, 3.89:1 and 30"

Fallow this link and scroll down to see a sequence of photos showing the dust roll off the back of the truck going through the traps.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=643933

bla bla

126.5 mph was the best I could do at Elmo this year, I was trying for 130 but at least I was faster than the last meet. 

The "Brew 102" has been racing El Mirage since 1980 I was told.  Sposed to be the oldest continuous running car there.  It's had different divers and engines over the years but it's been there.

bla bla bla

Changed heads out today.  These are the 113s that Greg Gordon donated to the "Cause".  I hope I have done some of my better port work on these along with some work to the Mummert intake to make everything match up right. We'll see how it all works out in two weeks at El Mirage.

I also took the advise of some of my scrub friends that said the only way to make it go fast was to install an sbc.  I did!  It makes for a good 240 lbs of dead weight for traction.

Ted, you will get your parts back soon.

bla bla bla

Thanks!  They are a pretty good match to the headers.

Our first run at El Mirage was a good one but the rpm showed that I should have been doing 133 and the timing slip showed 124. There is definitly some traction loss on the loose dirt. I'm gonna add some weight to the rear for the next meet, 200 lbs to start with I think.

bla bla bla

You have it all right!  I'm sure there is a club that will take someone from out of state, as it is the club Charlie and I belong to is a ways away from us and we are lucky to attend two meetings a year.  You can check into it, the clubs are all listed in the rule book.  Look at what the class record is for your car, if you think it's within reach it might be worthwhile.

Edit:  I just noticed this one says 3:13 the other day it said 3:12.  Oh well, I always tell people that the engine in the '58 is a 313 (+.060 292 with a 312 crank)

1.  I can certainly hear it.

2. I keep it on the oldies station, turned all the way up.

Well looks like the engine is coming out.   I went to install a new starter yesterday and found the ring gear has come off the flywheel.  Must have come loose when the bendix jammed and worked its way off on the three runs mad afterwards.  I assume that is the roughness I felt on the last run, surprised it didn't make more noise than it did.  Oh well, the fun of racing.  Just gotta do it if I want to be ready for Elmo.

Ted, I'll get the springs and the intake back to you soon.  I think I'll clean up the Mummert intake to run and finnish up the 113 heads Greg Gordon gave me.  That will be the combo for El Mirage.

bla bla

  Tim McMaster

 Tim McMaster

That wouldn't be a bad idea but I don't own these pix.   They will be in a magazine in a couple of months though.

Classic Trucks and Street Trucks.  Don't know what month but I was told it would probably be after Christmas.

I did a video like this for my dragster and it was less than 10 min, this one took a little longer so to get it on YouTube I had to split it into two parts. It's a little long but if you have the time I think you will enjoy the transformation.

part one

part two

bla bla bla

As most of you have heard by now the truck ran good and tracked VERY strait, thanks to Todd for some great suspension work. the speed felt great even if it was a little off from what I wanted, but you know no matter how fast we go we always want more.  Keep an eye out I think we are in for some good runs at Elmo this fall.

Todd, I'm sorry but I have to correct you in your post.  That is a sunrise not a sunset and we were not all present and accounted for, you needed to be there.

This question makes me a little mad as I had ordered a camera mount for the truck, they sent the wrong item, drug their feet sending me the right item, never got it and Charlie couldn't find the one he used in the "Brick".  So very little footage and NO in cab footage.  I will have a mount welded to the cage for the future but nothing this time.  Sorry.

Got lots of pictures though!

waiting to get on the salt at sunrise the first day.

sunrise in the pits as we unload.

moving to tech inspection.

going over him with a fine tooth comb, three issues were found that were easly fixed. Not too bad for a new car.

Ys guys Charlie, Ted Keith and Tim

Our little corner of the salt all set up.

Some more of the crew Trent, Tim, Kathy, Carl and Lance.

Adding a little "Go" juice.

Drivers meeting on Sat. morning.

Waiting in the staging lane

Bla bla

First of all there was a spot on the cage that the weld was not complete, about 1", that will be fixed today. (2) I didn't have my fuel tank vented properly. (3)and I had  to move the nozzle for the fire extiguisher in the cab to a better location.

You meet some interesting people in the staging lanes, Leslie Porterfield the fastest woman on two wheels.

Tman straping me in, he got pretty good at it, essential to the crew as I couldn't do it myself.

Cold water after a sucsessful run. It's 90* outside, I have to wear a fire suit with all the windows up. By the time I wait in line and make a run I'm soaked with sweat. It feels sooooo good when I take off the helmet and jacket.

bla bla bla

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Push bar Chuck.  You have to have a place to push in back and a place to pull up front, they don't let you drive your race vehicle anywhere but on the course.

Would love to make it out there some time, Charlie and I were just talking about that the other day.  I am going to New England next summer but I don't know if there will be a meet at that time and I don't think "Jake" would be a carry on.

Bla bla bla

She'll be there, flying into SLC on Fri. and home on Sun.  I hope it's not something bad from my past.

Here's a few of the pix from our photo shoot the other day.  I think they came out pretty good.

Bla bla bla

Good run today!

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Bonneville is next!  Should get in several runs this year in different set ups.  Next year we go after the record. 164.230.

Here's a few pix from yesterday.

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Don't worry, there was one.

I just found out today that the ramps from Elwood's trailer will work for this one too, gives us a much better angle.   Thanks though.

OK! now for todays action. This truck with a "Funny Car" style cage has been seen as a bit tough to get in and out of, I kept trying it out as we built it so I didn't make it so as to not be able to drive it. Until today I have not tried to enter and exit with full suit and "head & neck" restraint. So for your veiwing pleasure I submit this.

bla bla bla

I think I have all the "legal" stuff done today. Now in the days to come I will do a few things that may make it a little faster.

Driveshaft hoop in.

Safety cable on hood.

Tow hook.

Push bar.

bla bla bla

Chuck, the jacket does overlap the pants but my butt wont keep the pants up.   I may have to get suspenders.  I never really thought of covering the ends on the bottle supports, although it would give it a more finished look I think if my body comes into contact with that area I'm pretty well tore up by then. lol

Hollow Head (7/27/2011)

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It's good to know that sfi 3.2A/15 TPP value 60 gives you 30 seconds of protection against 2nd degree burns. Keep practicing, you have 5 seconds left now . How about if you are upside down and a little confused. Try that after six to ten beers and after half an hour waiting time... Sure would like to see that from youtube .

My suit is a 20.   I don't think they will make us drink six to ten beers and flip our vehicle just to demonstrate a bail out but I'd pay a dollar to see that.

Piece by piece it's going together.

bla bla bla

Two of them, one for the driver and one for the engine.

Here's a little video just went around the block. It's not as loud with the mufflers (duh) but I don't want to open it up and piss off the nieghbors. I'll have a good test run out at the airport maybe next week.

bla bla bla

OK! Today was very productive although when you see the few things that were done you may wonder why it took all day. Well it's Saturday and I don't work that hard. :p Seriously it does take a bit of time to do the small stuff, I spent 3 hours just puting the doors together. Doors were the beginning of the day, new weather stripping and "anti-rattle" kits with windows and tint.



Also what my wife calls "ironing boards" (Door panels)

I also added more padding to the cage and plumbed the fire extinguishers.



One nozzel for me.



and two for the engine.



How come the engine gets more than me?

All in all a very good day, getting closer all the time. Might even be able to take Elwood to the Eagle Field "Lions Club Drags" next week if I get it all done.


_________________

Bla bla bla

NO!... I watched it, close but no but no butt!

No she didn't take any pix, kinda wish she did it was quite an ordeal.

bla bla bla

bla bla bla

Latest video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2d54TEGv7NM&feature=player_embedded

bla bla

Watch this.

http://vimeo.com/20247765

bla bla bla

Yeah, I've bought from them before.  They have a lot of stuff you can't find anywhere else.

Dang Glen, you got that right off. Charlie and I had to go look at the tag before we figured it out.  Not much there to go by.  This guy is running a 276 (303ci) DeSoto. OK car but my cage looked a lot better.

bla bla bla

I could but some seats in the back like a "Brat"   You'll just have to watch what has already been passed.

bla bla

been staying up late this week (9:00 pm ) trying to get the cage done to take to El Mirage on the 11th so I can have it inspected before painting is done. I think we have some pretty good progress.





 

bla bla bla

That one comes off.

Pretty much finished now, just got to get the OK from Kiwi Steve.

bla bla bla

Funny you should ask.  I was thinking about making mounts for a removable pass. seat for going to and from car shows, although if the fire bottles are in place there is no room.

Taking off for El Mirage now, hope the tech guys like what they see. Wish me luck.

bla bla

well, I guess I don't have any sense.

A little bit of header work today.

bla bla bla

1 3/4" into 3"

Been a little under the weather the last couple of days and working hard to get Elwood ready for Eagle Field but we did manage to get the header for the other side done and a scatter shield made. Still waiting on tubing for the cage but I'm told it's on the way.



For those who want to know the primaries (1 3/4") came out 25 - 29" and I will be running 18" extentions on the 3" collectors.

bla bla bla

Trust me, it will be.   They like you to be snug.  The steering wheel comes off and gives you a little more room,  ask Charlie, the "Brick" wasn't the easiest thing to get in and out of.

Just to let you guys know I have ordered grey 8mm plug wires with black 90* boots.

bla bla

He moves under his own power!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5xQMh0RI3Y&feature=channel_video_title

 Does anyone know how to install a video player on this site?

Can you send me simple directions how you do it, I can do it on the HAMB but haven't figured it out over here.

Royce, this is the "D" motor.  Just a .060 292 (301ci) I want to do testing with this one then comes the bigger (350ci)  "C" motor.  If this one performs well I may try to push it to a record but the D record at El Mirage is 158+ mph, we'll see.

Bill, the exhaust is temporary.

I hope to have some to share.

After Famoso I even had a little time to work on Jake.  Not  driver yet but I did manage to fire the "D" engine,  I have the radiator mounted better now and as soon as I get the fuel and wiring done you will see him drive down the street.

Teaser video.     http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEWbDNNLRLc&feature=channel_video_title

bla bla

I agree 100% but that was all I could get in 8mm with 90* boots when I was at the parts store, color change to come later.

Old land speed trick, blows friction causing pebbles out of the way as you move forward.

Looks great Todd!  We missed you yesterday at Charlies, love to see the progress though.

bla bla bla

A little work was done this weekend, the truck now has working brakes and a transmisson. Brakes aren't really needed when going all out but we will want to bring it to a stop eventually.

The flex lines had to be re-routed because of the frame boxing but this worked out well.

Also before I hooked up the T-5 I decided on a different cam, plans to use the "D" motor (301ci) for just testing have changed a little and I wanted to make it more of a "Race" engine than a hopped up street engine. I have changed to high ratio rockers too. I am not thinking of setting a "D" class record but if we can get close to the 158 mph mark I may invest in some compression.

New timing chain was in order too.

I had to cut the front motor mount to fit the new modified "scrub" damper, but it worked out good too.

Finally ready to go back in, with a new hyd. clutch.

Now just have to make a hole for the shfter, XX always helps for a strait line.

bla bla bla bla

I know there is a thread here that covers it but the short version is the sbc and Y have almost the same dia. snout so if you hone about .002" out of the scrub damper you get a good press fit, .003 and it is almost a slip fit.  Then what I did was just take and old Y damper and cut the end the seal rides on to the proper length to space it out.  It helps to hone that piece to a slip fit so you can get it off and on easily.  Kinda like an FE.  You also need to broach a 1/4" key way in the scrub piece.  I used a 6 3/4" dia. damper but a 6" might not need to modify the motor mount so much.

I figured someone would coment on my head, should have had a cap on.   The "adult beverage" can also double as a fire retardant if the sparks get out of hand.

Don, I think the cup holder should be in the arm rest.  Soft drinks when I'm driving of course.

Charlie, I actually have a full head (maybe a little thin on the top) it's just grey and short so I don't know where that leaves my brain. BTW, thanks for the help with the clutch and I did get a very nice aluminum radiator, soon to be installed.

I think I may have this engine running this weekend although most of Saturday will be spent at Fomoso with Elwood.  I should have a timing slip with the four barrel and Blue Thunder set-up.  High 9's maybe? We'll see.

bla bla bla

Cool!

Not exactly Honda, they are 1.888" that is what I have in the 338ci Y that is in Elwood right now, these rods use a  1.850" journal.  I had to buy a special performance bearing that comes in std. only, little pricey too.  The TRWs were NOS so I don't know how long they were sitting around, I thing TRW is now Speed Pro.

Yeah, inside a tomato patch. lol

Did a few things myself this weekend, not much but I did degree the cam and check valve to piston clearance along with the quench area.

quench is about .050 although with the piston rocking I believe it is more like .040 which is what I was shooting for.

with such a big relief in the pistons the valves didn't even come close.

Here's a shot looking down the exhaust with valve fully open  (.585")

I also got some required goodies this week, these will be mounted when the cage goes in.

bla bla bla

Missouri Mike

Can't wait to see it run at Bonneville. I'm going with a Ford flathead racing team. Based on my skill set, I'll be holding the umbrella for shade, fetching cold water and taking tons of photos. So don't forget to smile.

Looking forward to meeting you and seeing this Y block in action!

Missouri Mike

    Very cute, very cute, and your uni looks terrific! I can hardly wait to see it in person.

    If your "shotgun" attends Bonneville I have something for her, if not, then I might give it to you.

     See you at the salt flats and I'll have that cold water for you.

     Travelling with a Ford flathead racer

     Lucky Missouri Mike

     Washington, Mo.

   Not at all, nothing that you won't like too I expect. Just a little "thank you" for handling all the "patch work".

      Mike

Tim, Charlie, it was nice to be able to put faces with the names.  Like you said, there just isn't really time to talk much.  I was either helping my owner, driver or you were thrashing on the uni.

For those of you who haven't seen it or won't get a chance to see it. let me tell you the uni looks even better in person then in the photos.

Racing story: I was with a guy running a chopped '40 coupe with a blown fuellie flathead. He holds his class record at 157 and was trying to break it. We worked two days getting the car tweaked to run.  On the third day at the 2 and a quarter mile marker he was clocked at 161, however, shortly thereafter the valve seat in the number 5 cylinder exhaust let go. Did lots of damage but he coasted through at 157. But that's racing,

When we get back to our pit area his usually very quiet 11 year old granddaughter comes up to him after the head has been pulled and the damage revealed and says, "Granddad, that was an awful lot of work for three minutes".  What is it they say.......out of the mouths of babes............

Congrats to you Tim and everyone (especially the "Shotgun") who had a hand in bringing the uni together.

Missouri Mike

Just returned to Washington, Mo from Bonneville and tired

For those of you who are following elsewhere this will be a bit repetitive, but hey--it's a Y-block powered race truck, and you're kind of a weiner if you get tired of looking at Y-block powered anything on a Y-block site, right?

As Tim showed you above, we started with an amazingly solid, rust-free CA truck that had been holding down a tomato garden. Only rust through was the front edge of the hood. Tim had already sourced a replacement when we went to pock up the truck. I have to warn you, there are a TON of pictures, as I wanted to document everything if any questions came up, and since Tim wasn't here to watch me butcher his race truck

First was the lowering. The goal is a 6-7" drop in front, and a fairly aggressive rake.

Here's where we start. Short block needs to stay for checking pan clearance, and eventual steering box clearance (I will be moving the box upward and forward to match new axle location).

As a notch for axle clearance is more than likely, boxing plates will be required to maintain strength. I decided that tying them into the existing bracing would be the cleanest approach. Here you can see where I marked to trim some of the existing bracing for a straight butt joint.

Then checked the fit, and also marked for the slight cureved cut at the bottom of the frame. I used 3/16" plate:

Cut and tacked:

Welded and ground:

Same on the other side:

As I go to work on the axle, here are the plates that I had made for the saddles that will be located underneath the I-beam. I only need 2 for the finished install, but I needed 4 for the mock-up process (you'll see):

Started with the axle upside down, level and sitting squarely on stands:

Cleaned the areas that will be welded:

I used long bolts to locate the aforementioned plates, and threaded nuts underneath the plate to build in and suport some additional caster angle for high-speed stability. You'll note that there's some space between the plate and the I-beam. With the 10 degrees of additional caster built in, the tie rod to leaf spring clearance was a concern, and it was an opportunity to safe guard against interference. Maintaining stock caster angle would make this a non-issue.

Here's the plate located on the screws, before tacking it in place:

Here's a couple shots of what was involved with boxing the plates in. Not a simple box...the caster and plate location did complicate things a bit. You can also see the added distance between the plate and the I-beam in this shot. A street truck would be more straighforward. The boxing plates began life as 2" x 4" x .125" rectangle tube with one side of the rectangle removed. The dimension worked well to surround the bolts:



Both front plates tacked in place (though not shown, similar boxing was installed on the rear of the I-beam):

I mounted the axle one last time to verify the axle centerline location, particularly since the added caster moves the centerline to the rear.

Then, it was time to drop the leaf springs, and set up the axle on top. Note that I used the other 2 plates, and the 1/2" bolts to mock it up. The custom u-bolts have not yet arrived from the spring shop:


 

 

 

Anyone who has lowered a 1957-64 F-100, or a 1955-66 Chevy/GMC is probably familiar with this site. I will be moving the axle c/l forward 2 1/2". This will help with stability, weight distribution, etc. If it were no benefit, I'd still do it simply because it will look much better than this. The factory didn't do a very good job of locating the axle centerline, IMHO:


This is about where I finished off the weekend. There will be more to come as I have to finish welding the axle perch/mount, determine the final location and depth of the notches and install them, as well as move the steering box up approximately 6", and forward 2 1/2". This will cure any potential issues with bump steer, as the stock geometry will be maintained. If you've made it this far without posting a response already, that's probably what you were wondering about, right?

Here are a couple of shots of clearances as they stand right now. Keep in mind the weight of the front clip and a complete wet engine will drop the front another 1 1/4". I'll be fabricating new shock mounts (upper & lower to utilize shorty gas shocks) and installing notches and bump-stops:

May not look like it, but there's about 3" to the pan. This will increase when the axle moves forward, as the pan is sloped from front to rear:

Keep in mind the after will be dropping another 1 - 1 1/2" after the engine is complete, the front clip is reinstalled, and the shorter front tires are installed. But so far we have gone from this:

To this:
 

Here's a few close-up shots of the perches and boxing plates welded in...

Front:


Back:


That should do it:


Just going to round the sharp corners of the mounting plate, and call it good.

Totally worth the effort. Here is the wheel placement before:

Here it is after moving it forward 2 1/2":
 

Plenty of clearance from lock to lock:

Here's the piece of the firewall I removed. Way more than was necessary, but I wanted plenty of room to work with, and a larger piece will be easier to modify & reinstall down the road.


Here's a ROUGH idea of how the box will be repositioned.




Changing the position of the box/column will "tilt" the column and wheel down somewhat, which is the explanation for the next step. There's a fair amount of interior room to be gained by sectioning the factory column drop a bit. This all has to be modified before the box is laid out and mounted, as the box mounts have no adjustment.




Marked out for removing 1 1/2" from the drop.


I use paint to mark things for cutting. In this case, you can see the bright silver paint, and how much shorter the drop is. This will move the column up closer to the dash a surprising amount.


Close up of sectioned drop. Note that I pie-cut the back to accommodate the new angle of the column.


Welded back together





That's more like it...something small that no one would ever notice but me, but it will make climbing into the roll-caged interior just that much less difficult.


Installed on the dash once again. Here you can see what this was worth. 1 1/2" removed from the drop, and remounted higher on the slotted mounts. Now the column is hugging the dash as it should, and the angle the column passes through matches the drop very closely.

I laid out the holes for the new steering box mounting plate, using a carpenters square to locate the c/l on the frame, then transferred the measurements onto the 3/16" plate (which will be trimmed down and gusseted before final welding)


Checked the holes for alignment on the original frame holes. We're all good.


Here's the raw 3/16" mount plate, setting in place...(side/front view):




Rough shape marked for the cut out.


3/16" plate formed using the marked cut-out for a guide.


Plate marked to the actual shape of the boxing cap.


Here's how the 2 pieces will fit together around the box. They will be welded together, and the cap will have some material removed for clearance at the shaft/worm gear area.


Mount plate tacked in place


Boxing cap with material removed, following approximate contour of the box (side & top view).




Top & side view of new mount assembly tacked in place with the cuts smoothed out and blended in a bit.




Just in case everyone thinks this has been uneventful and exactly as planned, please see exhibit "A" below.

The cause of this issue was moving the box up, essentially "hinging" at the column mount on the dash. It changed the alignment of the pitman arm just enough to make the turning circles (left/right) asymmetrical. Perhaps not important for a competition vehicle that needs to go straight, but I wouldn't feel good knowing that I sent something out like that. I've known about this for awhile but am finally addressing the fix. The output shaft of the steering box isn't splined all the way around as I had first thought. Had it been fully splined, I would have been able to index the pitman arm as needed. A one-position mount for the pitman arm required sectioning the drag link. Not a big deal, just a process. Before anyone asks, There are no concerns with strength from doing this. Were this receiving a rotational force rather than a simple push/pull, I would have sleeved the connection for added strength as I've done successfully with steering shafts in the past. I use a 220V Lincoln PowerMig 200, and would not attempt welding this thick stock with a 110V MIG welder. That's just me. Enough chatter, on to the work.

The output shaft of the box. Note partially splined shaft:


So I cleaned up the (solid) drag link, and created an index mark down the longitudinal axis so they would be joined in exactly the same plane:


I mocked up the two ends after removing the required amount, and clamped them to a pices of angle iron to hold them perfectly in-plane. I should note that before doing any of this, I put the steering wheel in a straight position, and measured the front wheel locations to assure that everything was as straight & true as possible):


While still clamped together, I removed the assembly, double checked that the index marks were aligned and burned them together.


Somehow, I forgot to take any pictures of the pre-ground welds on the drag link. You'll just have to trust me. After the first grind, I filled a couple small low spots, and sanded smooth followed by a wire wheel. Here it is in place once again, as if nothing ever happened

Knowing that I needed more access, and also knowing that I didn't want to separate a stuck Y-block while the truck was on jack stands, I just yanked the whole thing out.


I recorded the installed angle, so I can make sure the mount for the new T-5 will place everything correctly. This will allow much easier access to the firewall and frame for final welding, etc.


Placement marked for notches, and 6" long notch sections cut out:



Typical notch fitment. I prefer to use a fillet weld on things like this, so I left approximately 1/2" of the notch exposed. A bit more on the inside of the frame to allow for bump-stop installation.


Both notches all welded in...

A lot of you may be waiting for me to address the firewall issue. That is, I "butchered" the firewall to move the column & box up/forward.

Well, here you go. This is where we left off, and here is the piece that was removed:



And here's the exhaust section (from Kragen) that I used for the round top piece that will make the reveal over the column tube.


Old section relieved and clamped in place for fitment:


Here you can see the section of exhaust laid in for test fit.


Tacked in place:



And welded in...

First to go was the utilitarian bumper. Good riddance. (A fellow Unibody owner came down from Sacramento and scored a nice freebie with this...I hate throwing stuff away, and it was in really nice shape)


You can see how far the rear end needs to come down


In addition to a huge stack of leaf springs, there were these coil spring helpers. Actually a cool set-up if you needed something like that (I think Tim might try these for hauling his Alaskan camper). There's also quite a bit of room to modify the rear shackles for a few inches of drop as well.


I managed to salvage all 4 u-bolts, and drop the rear end down after removing the original shocks. I forgot to take a play by play on removing the leaf springs, but I removed all of the "flat" overload springs, as well as the bottom two arched leaf springs.


I set everything back down to check the height and I'm pretty pleased. Actually starting to look like something I'd refer to as a "stance". I'm looking for a couple more inches drop in back, as the front will drop an additional inch with everything bolted back on. There's currently about 4 1/2" clearance above the axle to the bottom of the frame, so it looks like the notch may not be necessary in back.




I added approximately 2 1/2" to the length of the shackles to get the last of the drop I'm looking for.

To be clear, I didn't flip the rear end. Before lengthening the shackles we have about 4" +/- from c/l to c/l of holes:


Cut line:


Extended shackle tacked together (left) next to original. Extended with 3/16" stock. Will be fully welded and ground, and back side will be boxed, & welded.


6 1/2" from c/l to c/l of holes, thus lowering the rear the last 2 1/2" I was looking for.


Both shackles extended, and tacked:


Boxing plates tacked on the back of the shackles:


...and fully welded front/back. I generally like to grind welds for cosmetic reasons, but there's really no reason on items like this that will never be seen:




Here's the extended shackle reinstalled. If it looks tight on top with the bed floor, and to the rear with the bed x-member, it's really not. There's about 3/4-1" on top, and more to the x-member. with only 2-3" of travel, the shackle will only move back about 1/2". It moves forward when the spring droop (when the truck is jacked up):




And here is where we sit now. About 6 1/2" lower in front, and 5 1/2" in back. Have some room to go up on either end with the addition of leafs, but I think this looks pretty good. A drastic improvement. And a little tech tip: the open lifter valley on a Y-block is the perfect size to securely hold a jug of Fast Orange hand cleaner

She was...she was just hiding

She wasn't quite ready to express the blinding enjoyment of another Ford in the garage like her mother, at the point

This has been perhaps one of the most enjoyable builds I've participated in. To watch this evolve from an idea to a race-ready effort has been an absolute pleasure.

Wish I could be there in B'ville, but I'll catch it at El Mirage...looks and sounds absolutely beautiful.

I hadn't seen the truck in persone since I finished the chassis/suspension mod's at the BIGREDTODD garage. It looked like this the last time I had my hands on it:

Needless to say, it was pretty exciting to pull into the lot and see it looking like this (sorry for the crappy cell phone picture):

Then on down the road they went...

Apparently not much to do crossing Nevada other than take self portraits...

Nothing quite like a B'ville sunset...

...but this is really what we're waiting to see!! Final tech, then time to get down to business!

More to come, as I get pics & updates...

BRT

mctim64 (3/20/2011)

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Looks great Todd!  We missed you yesterday at Charlies, love to see the progress though.

Yeah, would have loved to have gone...I missed out, but did get a lot done here...

OK, back to building y-blocks that make small children cry

mctim64 (4/24/2011)

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Just to let you guys know I have ordered grey 8mm plug wires with black 90* boots.

Thank goodness...

Instead of living 10 minutes from my office (being away from home between 6:45 a.m. and 4:15 p.m. each day) I now commute to the bay area (away from home from 5:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m. each day)...

Thanks Charlie, but the column is already installed...don't waste your effort, thanks for the thought though.

Wayne, I'll let Tim field your question about the heads. Seems like he did a post with the tech info. I'm just a fab grunt, he's the machinist...

Thanks Charlie...

I'm feeling better, and while Corinne is about ready to pop (34 weeks along with BIGREDTODD's baby girl) she's feeling better too. I'm still 14 hours away each day, but only one more week of that. Landed a great job at a local utility company. Finally made my degree work for me...

Gary,

Thanks for the compliment...I thank my lucky stars that I'm not responsible for the cage work. While I really dig round-tube work, my shop (I use the term loosely) has very little room to get into the serious side of structural fab, like roll cages.

...and my wife has already accepted that my little girl will be spending time in the garage. Just need to find mini-sized ear & eye protection, as well as a welding mask

Haha...that one didn't make the short list...

Thanks for the vote of confidence. Looking forward to seeing your new project come to completion and fly down the track. Looks to be a slippery little combo!

Steve,

I built in 10 degrees when I fabricated the boxing assembly on the front axle.

Charlie McCraney,

It's pretty interesting how Ford continually used the "parts bin" through the years. I have to believe that '61 F-100's still had hydraulic clutch masters/slaves, or else there wouldn't be a need for a "delete" plate on the firewall. Also, the holes on the clutch pedal were still there for the push rod and return spring pin. I did drill another hole for a return spring, just to simplify. And we have a spare rod/clevis from the extra pedal ass'y that Tim brought up, and it can be lengthened or shortened as needed. We can get the measurements for you when we get to that point.

I'll try to grab a picture of what was installed behind the factory brake master. It adapts a 2-bolt brake master to the 4 hole firewall mount. I'll do essentially the same for the clutch master, except be adapting a 4-bolt clutch master to the 2 holes that are on center with the (now removed) delete plate.

Kathy kept my wife Corinne company while Tim & I played out in the garage. We just had to mock up the racing wheels/tires to see how it was going to sit & look before we stripped the axles out for a rebuild. Pretty bitchin' in my humble opinion...

Tim seemed pretty OK with it, too!



The afternoon ended with the truck up on stands, as Tim took the axles back to rebuild. This should give you an idea of just how good the parts look now, that Tim pictured earlier:

He did deliver a fresh & clean T-5 / truck bell housing so I could get started on the tranny mounts, and finish the frame work:

Glad you could use the bumper...hard to beat if you need a heavy set-up to actually use as a bumper.

Once we get the truck back to a roller, I'll measure the c/l for you.

Todd

I didn't do anything to the pictures...I did do a few thing on the truck though

Everything that needs to be filled on the firewall is filled, and has been wire wheeled & wiped down...ready for paint.

Painted the firewall with bed liner paint (textured) as it should be more forgiving that conventional paint over all of the welded holes, and more durable against the salt at Bonneville


Next up is a healthy dose of POR-15 on the frame rails. Gotta get this area ready to party, or else it will look like a junkyard against the rebuilt & pretty axle assembly that Tim just got done with.

Also, the dash is now almost competely gutted, save for the wipers, the hack job radio, and a coupe final lingering items

While gutting the dash, I pulled the pedal ass'y out and removed the manual clutch arm, thus turning the pedal into a '57-61 version which will facilitate the hydraulic clutch.

My long weekend is now coming to a close, so a pizza & movie bight with the wifey is an appropriate way to puctuate the day

Speaking of such,,,are you required to have rear window safety straps?

mctim64 (6/12/2011)

---

We looked around before heading home and Charlie thought he would try something different on for size. I almost didn't get him out of it, tight fit.

bla bla bla

He looks good in an Ford.

I have no problem with the pics on either site. My son brought down the bumper over the holidays from Sacramento,Wow it is in great shape Thanks

Could you please post a measurement from the front of the frame horns to the axle centerline? I am puting the Gibbon/cordoba ifs on the truck I am working on, and although the swap is supposed to address the fender opening issue I would like to check before moving to much further along

John

Well done

I wish you would add this to your build post, on the slick60s site.

John

I can't see your photos on the Slick 60's site either???

Your truck looks and sounds great and I know it feels good to have it rolling under its own power!  Keep up the good work.

Todd,

Great job on the lowering.  I think the stance is absolutley perfect!  Looks great.  And congrats on the new baby! 

It's great to read about all the work your doing on the new engine....but it seems your posts should have photos.  I do not see any photos....if you uploaded any?

Thanks!!

Awesome work.  I know you'll acomplish what you want out on the flat's but if for some reason you don't you'll still have one Badass pickup!  I like it a lot!  I also like your precision driving.  Just swing right into the driveway and are perfectly aligned with the wheel blocks.  I think you should tow Elwood with Jake to Eagle Field.  That would be a real show stopper!  Have fun and break a leg.  I won't be able to make Bonneville but will be sending you good vibes.

Thanks for the updates and awesome photos.  Sounds like things are going good or better than planned.  I look foward to the details.  Oh and Todd, if you ever decide to part ways with the Starliner count me as first in line to give it a great new home!

Fantastic photos! I subscribe to Classic Trucks mag and can't wait to see you and Jake on its pages.  That will be cool.  Sounds like things went relativley well aside from the starter bendix and flywheel gear ring coming loose.  I'm glad to hear you'll be putting the heads to use.  I hope they add some mph to your next runs.  After reading Keith's thread maybe you should bring some duct tape along as well.  Anyway, keep living the dream and thanks for sharing.

mctim64 (1/22/2012)

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Thanks Frank and Chuck!  I was talking with Ted this week and thanks to him there should be something to watch for this year at Bonneville from both "Jake" and Keith's '32.  Let's not forget Charlie Burns and his new "Yellow Thing".   Exciting times!

Happy New Year everyone,havent been on in a while.Looking forward to this coming speedweek,been dong some updates to the coupe,while Ted is "checking out the 343 Y.

Tim,if we bump into each other at the GNRS,maybe we can catch up over a $10 beer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

"Only" 160 days to go..........................

                        Keith

See ya in a few weeks.   Keith

Great job,  Sometimes I wish I lived closer to the west coast,so I could play in the dirt too!!!!!!!!!!

Keith

Great job Tim.Cant wait for August!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Keith

GOOD LUCK

2 thumbs up from CANADA

Scott

Sorry but if someone called my competition a "scrub" in my pit I'd escort them out and not welcome them back. At Bonneville I've loaned gaskets, clutches, intakes and more to my competition trying to break my records and have seen it time and time again to others. Bonneville just does that to people.

Good luck and I hope the Unibody see closer to 150 before they need to leave..............JD

I tow my race trailer with a F-250 and sometimes there is a 1/2 mile dirt track Super Stock 77 Camaro on back which my son owns. . . . . . . .JD

Before the week started the speed in his class, D/PP is held by a C at 164. With a 305 cubic inch limit any showing like Tim has done is a major a accomplishment when you consider what is required to enter LSR venues with the safety rules that are enforce. I think the Dodge "Poly" engine would have a hard time going this fast using the same era truck. Of course no one would do that; they just go to a later truck same with the Fords. It does take a special guy to chase with "Y".

Not so for the "C" word. An injected aluminmun headed 302 "C" could probably put out 600+ ponies without too much trouble which is a lot and much harder to do with the trust Y and it's all legal. Tough to beat if it's in a 58/59 fleetside long bed put right on the ground.

I appauld all the guys here who are willing to race and enjoy Y-Blocks. and Hey at the "brackets" eveything is equal just not in LSR...........JD

I've never had any cameras inside with a run in my old coupe but riding along with you sure brought back memories. Roadsters are a bit different and someday maybe we will hear you for 5 miles and believe you me it it's a thrill to hold your foot in one that long..... JD

Can't wait to get there in October.

Keep us updated! Good luck!