Also decided that now was as good as any time to fill the gas filler opening...not nearly as exciting and reminded me why I like chassis work. You never know when you going to uncover an old repair...

Pretty straightforward, just cut a patch from a piece of sheet metal & formed it to the shape of the body. I then traced the patch to give myself a cut line. I like using a sharpie, and cutting through the line with my cut-off wheel. Usually gives me the gap I want. Then just tack tack tack, and stitch stictch stitch. I much rather have a few lows, then high spots. Makes filling, blocking, and priming much easier. In this case I made the patch about an inch wider so I could cut out the majority of the old slide hammer holes from a previous repair. Nothing like the smell of old bondo turning to dust.

Not as exciting in my book, but here's a few pictures of the process.










Todd in Central California...about half way between Fresno and Sacramento

1956 Thunderbird - 1960 F-100 - 1961 Starliner - 1961 Imperial

Yeah, would have loved to have gone...I missed out, but did get a lot done here...

Todd in Central California...about half way between Fresno and Sacramento

1956 Thunderbird - 1960 F-100 - 1961 Starliner - 1961 Imperial

Yes, you were missed, but we talked behind your back...............all good stuff.  We did have some great Y-Block representation there with Tim and Doug Thrasher.  We also had Ed and his son who campaigned the Hegarty and Dozier Hemi powered streamliner at Bonneville along with John who retired from Flowmaster.  With all that diverse expertise, all they wanted to talk about was Y-Blocks.  I think Tim really jazzed them up when he lit up his FED.

If we don't see you sooner, I look forward to seeing you at Eagle Field. I know your part is about done, but I have really enjoyed your work and reports.

Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)







BurnsRacing981@gmail.com

A little work was done this weekend, the truck now has working brakes and a transmisson. Brakes aren't really needed when going all out but we will want to bring it to a stop eventually.

The flex lines had to be re-routed because of the frame boxing but this worked out well.

Also before I hooked up the T-5 I decided on a different cam, plans to use the "D" motor (301ci) for just testing have changed a little and I wanted to make it more of a "Race" engine than a hopped up street engine. I have changed to high ratio rockers too. I am not thinking of setting a "D" class record but if we can get close to the 158 mph mark I may invest in some compression.

New timing chain was in order too.

I had to cut the front motor mount to fit the new modified "scrub" damper, but it worked out good too.

Finally ready to go back in, with a new hyd. clutch.

Now just have to make a hole for the shfter, XX always helps for a strait line.

bla bla bla bla

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Tim

Things continue to look very good, can you elaborate on the "modified scrub " damper?  What did you modify to make it fit the crank.

Gary Ryan San Antonio.TX.

hey, that hairline resembles mine!

and... can you place an "adult beverage" that close to a grinding wheel in motion?

just wondering...!  enjoying the show like everyone else!

Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

I know there is a thread here that covers it but the short version is the sbc and Y have almost the same dia. snout so if you hone about .002" out of the scrub damper you get a good press fit, .003 and it is almost a slip fit.  Then what I did was just take and old Y damper and cut the end the seal rides on to the proper length to space it out.  It helps to hone that piece to a slip fit so you can get it off and on easily.  Kinda like an FE.  You also need to broach a 1/4" key way in the scrub piece.  I used a 6 3/4" dia. damper but a 6" might not need to modify the motor mount so much.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

I figured someone would coment on my head, should have had a cap on.   The "adult beverage" can also double as a fire retardant if the sparks get out of hand.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

The Interceptor motors have a spacer behind the bottom pulley that might be about the correct length. How about spacing for the accessory pullies? I thought they could be a problem. Is that a Mummert double bottom pulley? Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Nothing wrong with the hairline, I've been working 60 years to get one like that. I figured the Dos Equis was to measure for the cup holder. Nice work though. I look forward to seeing your progress.



Don



Modesto, CA