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Polishing an Engine

Posted By grovedawg 14 Years Ago
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Hollow Head
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Smile And when you are finished the outer side, you can crawl inside and keep working. That will lighten your block a bit too and it also helps the oil to flow back to oil pan. Is it worth doing? Absolutely, if it keeps you away of doing something more crazy... BigGrin. And if I would have to decide, just a layer of clear coat over the polished block.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/e3fd9a79-e7c3-47ff-a648-8cd5.jpg Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)
grovedawg
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Hollow Head (4/8/2010)
Smile And if I would have to decide, just a layer of clear coat over the polished block.




Can I do that? I LOVE the looks of raw metal, but didn't think that a clear coat would bond well enough to any type of metal without a primer- let a lone an engine block which will get REALLY hot.



Anyone have experience clear coating an enigne?

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

55 Effie
grovedawg
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2188nrha (4/8/2010)
MY hat is off to you. I am almost finished do a set of finned aluminum valve covers I picked up on E Bay

Can not wait to see it when yo are done.




Throw some pics up of the polishing you're doing on those covers. I'd love to see them! (They're probably the same valve covers I was out-bid on last week Smile Ha ha ha!

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

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charliemccraney
Posted 14 Years Ago
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grovedawg (4/8/2010)
[quote].



Anyone have experience clear coating an enigne?




I cleared all of the aluminum parts on my engine. So far it's doing well. I have over 5000 miles on it.


Lawrenceville, GA
grovedawg
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Doug T (4/7/2010)
The 4 "blocks" along the out side of the head are likely to be part of the holding system for when the heads were machinedat the factory. These blocks are very useful to check if the heads have been milled. Unmilled stock heads should measure exactly 1.000" high. Less than that and the heads have been milled to the difference between the measured block thickness and 1.000"




Thanks for the heads up Doug! I'll go check the measurements to see where they're at! And I'll post some more pics as I progress.

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

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grovedawg
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So, I loved the Y block at the top and decided to paint mine gold. But I want some opinions 'cause I'm on my third brand of paint. I hated the Eastwood high temp oldsmobile gold. It looked like the color of my moms walls. NOT HOT ROD! So I bought two rattle cans of gold paint, the universal gold by duplicolor, and VHT metal flake gold.



What are you're opinions. Speak now or forever hold your peace. I really am torn between the two.



Duplicolor is the lighter gold on the left. VHT is the more "redish" gold on the right. Sorry I don't have a better pic. Smile





Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

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grovedawg
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I'm actually kind of leaning more towards the VHT on the right. Any opinions are accepted. 'Cause in the end I'm the one who chooses and lives with it. Smile

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

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YellowWing
Posted 14 Years Ago
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I think you should go with  the VHT and I'm never wrong, just ask my wife. Smile

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

danray63
Posted 14 Years Ago
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If it was mine, I'd go for the left, but it's not. I just thought it would look sweet with aluminum valve covers. Well, just about everything else aluminum.
Butch Lawson
Posted 14 Years Ago
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I used the VHT universal gold on my engine and then cleared over it with a two part R-M Diamont clear.  The clear seems to have bonded very well with the VHT.  I think it turned out great and the clear should help to keep it looking clean longer.

Butch Lawson

Manchester,  TN



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