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By grovedawg - 14 Years Ago
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So, I'm ambitious to say the least. I'm rebuilding this cherry little 272, and I started grinding some of the casting lines. Then some of the of the engine numbers. Then I thought, I could smooth out some corners. And now, hours later I'm still grinding and polishing my Y block, and am thinking I'm crazy!?
I love the idea of what it will look like when it's done, but I should be checked into the state hospital for this.
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By bird55 - 14 Years Ago
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Welcome to the asylum.
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By grovedawg - 14 Years Ago
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OK. I'm speechless. I can't think of a sexier picture than that engine! I now know what I have to do... Ha ha ha 
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By grovedawg - 14 Years Ago
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I also wondered about grinding off the 4 Square blocks on the outsides of the heads. The two that sit directly below the inner spark plugs, and then the two outer ones that are on the outside corners of the block. I can't really see any reason why they were cast there in the first place.
Anybody know for sure?
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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grovedawg (4/7/2010)
So, I'm ambitious to say the least. I'm rebuilding this cherry little 272, and I started grinding some of the casting lines. Then some of the of the engine numbers. Then I thought, I could smooth out some corners. And now, hours later I'm still grinding and polishing my Y block, and am thinking I'm crazy!?
I love the idea of what it will look like when it's done, but I should be checked into the state hospital for this.
Nope. Nobody should be checked into the hospital for hard work. It's going to look great.
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By BIGREDTODD - 14 Years Ago
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[quote]grovedawg (4/7/2010)
...am thinking I'm crazy!?
[quote]Crazy? Absolutely...but in a good way
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By Larry D - 14 Years Ago
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A few years back at World of Wheels I saw a '62 bubletop scrub with a smoothed dual quad 409 and I asked the owner, does it run? He said no, that it had a stub crank just to hold the pulleys and that the block was bondoed and painted. I think what you're doing is hard work. It's honest, it will look great and when you turn the key it will fire up like every other y-block. Give er!
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By Doug T - 14 Years Ago
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The 4 "blocks" along the out side of the head are likely to be part of the holding system for when the heads were machined at the factory. These blocks are very useful to check if the heads have been milled. Unmilled stock heads should measure exactly 1.000" high. Less than that and the heads have been milled to the difference between the measured block thickness and 1.000"
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By 2188nrha - 14 Years Ago
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MY hat is off to you. I am almost finished do a set of finned aluminum valve covers I picked up on E Bay
Can not wait to see it when yo are done.
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By lowrider - 14 Years Ago
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Gonna look sweet. I wish I had that much ambition.
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By Hollow Head - 14 Years Ago
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And when you are finished the outer side, you can crawl inside and keep working. That will lighten your block a bit too and it also helps the oil to flow back to oil pan. Is it worth doing? Absolutely, if it keeps you away of doing something more crazy...  . And if I would have to decide, just a layer of clear coat over the polished block.
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By grovedawg - 14 Years Ago
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Hollow Head (4/8/2010)
And if I would have to decide, just a layer of clear coat over the polished block.
Can I do that? I LOVE the looks of raw metal, but didn't think that a clear coat would bond well enough to any type of metal without a primer- let a lone an engine block which will get REALLY hot.
Anyone have experience clear coating an enigne?
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By grovedawg - 14 Years Ago
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2188nrha (4/8/2010)
MY hat is off to you. I am almost finished do a set of finned aluminum valve covers I picked up on E Bay
Can not wait to see it when yo are done.
Throw some pics up of the polishing you're doing on those covers. I'd love to see them! (They're probably the same valve covers I was out-bid on last week Ha ha ha!
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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grovedawg (4/8/2010)
[quote].
Anyone have experience clear coating an enigne?
I cleared all of the aluminum parts on my engine. So far it's doing well. I have over 5000 miles on it.
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By grovedawg - 14 Years Ago
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Doug T (4/7/2010)
The 4 "blocks" along the out side of the head are likely to be part of the holding system for when the heads were machinedat the factory. These blocks are very useful to check if the heads have been milled. Unmilled stock heads should measure exactly 1.000" high. Less than that and the heads have been milled to the difference between the measured block thickness and 1.000"
Thanks for the heads up Doug! I'll go check the measurements to see where they're at! And I'll post some more pics as I progress.
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By grovedawg - 14 Years Ago
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So, I loved the Y block at the top and decided to paint mine gold. But I want some opinions 'cause I'm on my third brand of paint. I hated the Eastwood high temp oldsmobile gold. It looked like the color of my moms walls. NOT HOT ROD! So I bought two rattle cans of gold paint, the universal gold by duplicolor, and VHT metal flake gold.
What are you're opinions. Speak now or forever hold your peace. I really am torn between the two.
Duplicolor is the lighter gold on the left. VHT is the more "redish" gold on the right. Sorry I don't have a better pic.
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By grovedawg - 14 Years Ago
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I'm actually kind of leaning more towards the VHT on the right. Any opinions are accepted. 'Cause in the end I'm the one who chooses and lives with it.
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By YellowWing - 14 Years Ago
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I think you should go with the VHT and I'm never wrong, just ask my wife.
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By danray63 - 14 Years Ago
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If it was mine, I'd go for the left, but it's not. I just thought it would look sweet with aluminum valve covers. Well, just about everything else aluminum.
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By Butch Lawson - 14 Years Ago
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I used the VHT universal gold on my engine and then cleared over it with a two part R-M Diamont clear. The clear seems to have bonded very well with the VHT. I think it turned out great and the clear should help to keep it looking clean longer.
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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I like the right.
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By grovedawg - 14 Years Ago
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Thanks for the opinions guys. Keep em coming if you've got em!
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By Rono - 14 Years Ago
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If you want a reallly good clear coat product for polished aluminum, check out Zoops Seal @ http://www.zoopseal.com/ I used this product on my Edlebrock valve covers, water pump, #257 intake and a polished aluminum valley pan I made. All the aluminum parts kept their luster and there was no need to polish. Good stuff. Rono
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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It is definitely possible to have a block powder coated. It would take a large commercial oven so the job would probably be best left to a pro. Once completely clean the block is heated then powder coat applied. Place in the oven it would then be heated to about 420 Degrees while the powder flowed out and cured. Oven size and handling the block would be the biggest problems I can think of. I've attached some pictures of work I have done using Castwells one step chrome. The front cover had only minimum grinding to eliminate casting ridges. Chuck in NH  
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By yalincoln - 14 Years Ago
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a friend of mine powder coated everything on this engine. had to do everything in peices. the carbs were a little sticky untill we filed them.
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By grovedawg - 14 Years Ago
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I'm just not in love with powder coating. We've got a shop here that's been in business for years, and has a typically fast turn around time. But it always comes back with ORANGE PEEL. And I hate that. I want flat and a mirror shine.
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By grovedawg - 14 Years Ago
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Moonshadow. I dig the work you've done thus far. It looks like it'll be sweet when it's all finished.
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By grovedawg - 14 Years Ago
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Rono (12/10/2010)
If you want a reallly good clear coat product for polished aluminum, check out Zoops Seal @ http://www.zoopseal.com/I used this product on my Edlebrock valve covers, water pump, #257 intake and a polished aluminum valley pan I made. All the aluminum parts kept their luster and there was no need to polish. Good stuff. Rono
Do you have any pics?
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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Thanks. Most of my new engine will be powder coated (except the block). I didn't take the time to create a polish finish on my parts just basic prep. If someone was to polish a front cover then powder coat it the look would be very close to chrome. Not that I'm an expert at it, just doing my own hobby stuff. If they are getting orange peal they are messing up the job. If the prep and temp work is proper the finish can be ultra smooth.The Caswell Plating site has a real good forum on powder coating and addresses problems like orange peal. I'd say your local shop needs to take a look at what they are doing wrong. Chuck in NH
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By charliemccraney - 14 Years Ago
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I agree. We have frames powder coated for our restorations. They are always shiny and smooth.
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By Rono - 14 Years Ago
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Polished intake, valve covers, valley pan, radiator tank,and air cleaner sealed with Zoopsseal. Rono 
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By YellowWing - 14 Years Ago
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Very nice engine compartment! Mike
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By Rono - 14 Years Ago
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Thanks Mike! I forgot I have one of Peg Legs aluminum water pumps that I polished and sealed also. Rono
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By smchop - 14 Years Ago
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That image of that motor is what started me on y-blocks, also saw a short clip of it on youtube. Man that is sweet!
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By Daniel Jessup - 13 Years Ago
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Rono, great stuff - keep up the good work. I know you are working on your blower setup like I am, do you plan to polish that blower too, or are you going to go with some kind of bright engine paint before you install?
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By Rono - 13 Years Ago
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Daniel; If the aluminum water pumps, timing covers, valley pans and intakes are still available through Mummert or Peg Leg this spring, I'll get them and polish them up. I just finished the framing and exterior of my new shop (36'x44') up here in Maine, but we're burried in snow right now so I will have to wait until spring when I can run underground power through the woods insulate and sheetrock. So I think I'm at least 5 months out before I can start back on the motor. ALL GOOD THINGS COME TO THOSE THAT WAIT...right?? Rono
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By MoonShadow - 13 Years Ago
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Unfortunately Frank is no longer making the water pumps, thermostat housings and front covers. I've heard someone had started producing the water pump again but don't know the quality. I plan to take my water pump apart and powder coat it with Xtreme Chrome from Caswell plating. I've done a few parts and they seem to come out well. Not quite chrome but pretty close. Chuck in NH
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By Daniel Jessup - 13 Years Ago
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Rono: I know what you mean...just finished my 24x40 pole barn/garage, and I am still not quite finished organizing it. My father-in-law brought his car back over, and I started back on that project too. My engine is going to have to wait until early or mid-summer, if I am fortunate...still amassing parts as well. Won't really know what it's like to run a blown VS57 until it's under load...in a Sunliner!  Chuck - how difficult is that stuff to use? Keeping along the same lines as this thread, I assume that the coating you are using is good for polishing?
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By grovedawg - 13 Years Ago
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Rono! Thanks for the pics. I'm jealous of the Edelbrock Valve covers.
I finally started putting the engine together this weekend. It looks hot! I had the short block assembled and I had to set the heads on and the valve covers to get a feel for how she'll look! Sexy don't you think?
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By grovedawg - 13 Years Ago
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Dick York of Dicks Hot Rod shop is rebuilding my tri-power and he sent me pics today. I'm so excited I can't stand it. Here are a couple of shots.
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By MoonShadow - 13 Years Ago
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That looks great! Its too bad that pretty valley cover is so hidden when the intake is in place. Any thoughts on how you plan to get oil into the engine? Chuck in NH
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By grovedawg - 13 Years Ago
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Once I get the intake back I'll be able to measure the necessary clearance to machine a hole to accept an oil funnel. I'm still scouting out a nice funnel. Haven't found one that I'm stoked on yet. But, slow and steady.
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By grovedawg - 13 Years Ago
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I'm also looking for a nice aluminum thermostat housing to go up front. I called John and he said he'd have some shortly. I may also just clean up the cast part and have it chromed.
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By Rono - 13 Years Ago
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Grovedawg; She'll be real pretty when all together. You may already be planning this, but as Moonshadow said, you will need to plan for an oil fill somewhere. "Mooneyes" makes some nice cast aluminum breathers for the valve covers if you want to cut holes in them. Otherwise, you will need to machine a hole in the Valley cover for an oil fill tube. This is not as easy as it sounds because the fill tube needs to be set at a forward angle to clear the intake. When I fabricated my aluminum valley pan, I used an original steel valley pan for mock-up. The valley pan I used for mock-up was a later model one with the breather hole so I could locate a breather hole for a PCV valve in the new aluminum pan. Just some things to think about. Rono
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By GREENBIRD56 - 13 Years Ago
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I've always really liked the look of the dual four arrangements - your's is way clean Rono, nice job. While looking for these 2X4 set-ups I came upon this car - owned by Kirk White - and the motor by Doane Spencer.... 
The water tubes intrigue me - but the two 4160 (?) Holleys set butt to butt are different to say the least.  This little bird is supposedly "PDQ"
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By MoonShadow - 13 Years Ago
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I used the push in chrome type made for scrubs. Cut an angled hole to press fit the taper of it and used a K&N type cap/breather for it. Worked great. Porblem is getting someone to accurately cut the hole to the size and angle. I used a stock valley pan to get the angle. It can be done with a good holesaw but it ain't easy! Chuck in NH
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By Rono - 13 Years Ago
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Greenbird56; Thanks for the compliment! Those water tubes on Kirk White's motor are very interesting. I wish I could see the radiator and how those hoses are plumbed. I wonder if he's using a remote T-stat housing? I agree it's a very clean set-up. Alot of thought, time and custom fabrication went into that bad boy(girl) Rono
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By grovedawg - 13 Years Ago
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I was planning on taking the measurements with a stock unit, and then verifying it when the intake shows up. Then I'd measure the angle(s) and use a board underneath my drill press, like a pie or wedge, to maintain the reverse angle. With it clamped in good and tight I'd slowly cut it out with a hole saw.
I also found a cool chrome "cheapie" oil filler through speedway for like 15 bucks. I'm still looking though.
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By grovedawg - 13 Years Ago
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I finally got around to breaking my motor in. My brother who lives in Boise ID is related through marriage to Frank "Mac" Quinlin who runs a great dyno shop out of Nampa, ID. So, what better excuse to spend a weekend with my brother and break in my motor. Here's a shot after the break in and just after we made a huge jump on the main jets to overcome a rich condition.
It's actually the first video I've posted on YouTube. You can see it HERE.
The story was the main jets on the center carb are 51's. Which wouldn't allow us to go over about 2500 rpms because it would get to lean (like 18-19:1 AFR). So we finished the break in with a load but at lower RPMs. We then used the only jets Mac had left which were 70's and you can see in the numbers it got REALLY rich. the AFR's are now in the 12.5:1 range. Unfortunately I ran out of time and had to come home before we could add the second valve springs, and pump it up to higher RPMS. But, I'll head back up in another month and post the second video with some higher RPMs and hopefully some sweet numbers.
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By ScottY - 13 Years Ago
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Hey Grovedawg, All looking fantastic, especially, intake set-up, re; the filler tube, look up OTB Gear, they have some neat alloy stuff, including a really slick universal Filler tube n cap, finned at that, should fit in perfectly
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By bird55 - 13 Years Ago
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Nice work Groovedog. I've been pretty bored today and you just fixed that. What is it about a yblock running on a dyno?! Always get goosebumps.
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By jimcar-9 - 12 Years Ago
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bird55 (4/7/2010)
Welcome to the asylum.
Hie guys. I am a newbie at this forum but the youtube of this engine made me tic for the Y-block. It looks like nothing else from this world. What paint did you use for the ram horns??? did the paint make it or not? All thumbs up Thanks Jimmy the Swede
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