thanks fellas, I appreciate all of the tips you guys are posting

A master cut off switch only if you have a trunk mounted battery.

One thing that has changed, since 1982,  cars have to have a master cutoff switch outside the car to shut off all power to the car. The "general safety" pages of the rule book should cover all the thing that have changed since the car was on the track last.

Gary Ryan San Antonio.TX.

thanks moonshadow, i will start looking for l on these. ebay is good for some things

I used the Mallory 4309 regulator on my setup. It's boost referenced 1 to 1 so for each pound of boost it will add a pound of fuel pressure. They are usually on EBAY used and new. I ran a tube from the nipple on the McCullouch directly to the regulator. It reads boost pressure directly from the supercharger and compensates. Really a pretty simple set up. I've had more trouble with the pressurized carburetor issue. Without modification vacume secondaries will not work. Mechanical was too much fuel off the line. I'm still considering a pressure box or carb enclosure like the Paxton or Vortech units. I've done some reading up on sealing up a Holley for blowers and it dosen't seem too difficult but I never trust ME! Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

You will need a boost reference to a regulator.  If you don't, the regulator will maintain about 6 psi all the time and fuel flow to the carb will stop when the boost comes up.  If you have say, 6 pounds boost, you would have to have 12 pounds fuel pressure so the carb thinks it has 6 at the float needle.  Put another way, when the boost is at 6, the fuel bowl is also at 6.  Without more than 6 in the fuel line, fuel won't flow into the bowl.  Without check valves in the fuel line (as in a mechanical pump), you will actually blow air back down the fuel line to the tank.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

hoosier, i think so, so then the elec. pump pumping 15psi is downpressured by the regulator whic h keeps it at a say, constant 6 psi.thruout its "running cycle"? do i need to block this nipple off because it isnt needed with an elec. pump? or is it still needed in some form?

hoosier, i think so, so then the elec. pump pumping 15psi is downpressured by the regulator whic h keeps it at a say, constant 6 psi.thruout its "running cycle"? do i need to block this nipple off because it isnt needed with an elec. pump? or is it still needed in some form?

Deuce:

That nipple could be a connection for a pressure gauge.  It could also be a reference for fuel pressure.  Let me try to clarify.  On the factory blown cars, fuel pressure had to rise with air pressure, otherwise when air pressure exceeded fuel pressure, no more fuel would flow into the carb.  What they did was to take an air pressure reference (maybe that's what is on your bonnet) and hook it to a fitting on the fuel pump to pressurize the back side of the diaphragm, making the air pressure "help" the fuel pump spring.  So with each pound of air pressure, fuel pressure would rise one pound.  You have no mechanical pump, so I don't know how the car was set up.  You probably have an electric pump capable of about 15 psi and a regulator that can be boost referenced.  The difference with a system like this is that the regulator reduces fuel pressure to about 6 psi when there is no boost, then "allows" more pressure in proportion to air pressure.  Hope this make sense to you.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

thanks guys, appreciate all the info. certainly no big deal to replace a quarter window being as it is straight glass, and a new glass most likely will not deter from its originality, so unless this gets put to the bottom of the list of things to do,will get a new glass in before spring. the original owner made his own supercharger bracket setup and took awhile to figure how it bolted on. and was concerned about the condition of the paxton because of it tightness until hoosier relieved my mind. does turn easier with a wrench john and feels silky smooth, so spent the morning bolting that up. now another challenge. the twin 4 barrel bonnet has a fitting in it that looks like some kind of vacuum line would attach to it, but the last piece in the bow is an old filter bowl wrapped in aluminum foil with a copper line attached to that looks like it pertains to fuel, but there is no manual pump on this engine, that is blocked off. running only an electric pump at the rear with a on/off switch on the dash. any ideas or conjectures apppreciated.