If you’re a NHRA member, you can download the rule book at the www.nhra.com  website.  Without looking at the rule book, I would think that for running in the twelves or slower, your current roll cage would pass tech.  The current cage may even be okay for running in the elevens but checking with a technical inspector at the track or getting a copy of the rule book would be the prudent thing to do before actually trying the vehicle out at the track.

You’ll still need to go over the whole car to insure that all the other areas are up to snuff in regards to fitting the rules and the car is essentially safe to race.  I know this all sounds vague but the tech inspector at the track will have the final say.  The car looking presentable and ready to race goes a long way in passing tech.  Barn finds with the obvious decay that happens over time and not being corrected is going to have the tech inspectors scrutinizing the car with a fine tooth comb.

The rules for the Y block shootout are very strict.  Has to be Y block powered.  Period!  (We have been known to allow other orphan Ford engines, like the 430 MEL and the V12 Lincoln.  Our main goal is FUN!)

However, the car will have to meet certain safety regulations to pass tech.  As Ted says, check a rule book and talk to a local tech man if possible.  In a nutshell, if you run quicker than 13.99 you'll need an approved helmet, seat belt, positive battery hold down, radiator overflow catch can, good glass, good tires, if you run slicks you'll need a front driveshaft loop.  If your seat is not stock, you'll have to have a 5 point seat belt that is less than 2 years old.  The roll bar may dictate a 5 point belt, I'm not sure.  My car has the stock seat and a 40 year old 2" lap belt.  At least one working tail light for racing after dark.  No more than 12" of rubber fuel hose total.  These things will likely get you in, if they see anything else they will probably tell you to fix it before you bring it back.

I hadn't looked at a rule book for several years, recently got a copy of last year's, very little is changed.  I did have a plastic line to the oil pressure gauge, that's a no-no.  I changed it to copper.

Stop light not required.  Only one working tail light required.  If the glass has a single crack, they would probably let it go, maybe suggest you replace it before you run again there next year, but they won't document that, may not remember it.  I have a small crack in my 1/4 window, nothing has been said.  A couple years ago at Columbus, the tech man had just had a conversation with a racer with several cracked windows, and he was perturbed.  I was next in line.  I thought "oh-oh, this is going to be a tough inspection."  When he saw under my hood, he got excited.  Said he liked supercharged engines, had already seen one that day (Pegleg's).  Gordon Payne was in line behind me with my Bird, I told the guy he was about to see another one.  When I told him the Bird was also supercharged, he immediately went back to it.  He may have seen the catch can when he looked under my hood, maybe not.  He passed Gordon, then came back to me and passed me, and put my class designation right over the crack in the winidow.  I told Gordon, "see how easy tech is when they like your car".  Moonshadow's beer can observation is correct, but according to the rules the catch can has to be at least 16 ounce capacity.  Your hydraulic hose is certainly better than fuel hose, they would probably accept it.  If there is no more than a foot total, there is no question it's legal.

That nipple could be a connection for a pressure gauge.  It could also be a reference for fuel pressure.  Let me try to clarify.  On the factory blown cars, fuel pressure had to rise with air pressure, otherwise when air pressure exceeded fuel pressure, no more fuel would flow into the carb.  What they did was to take an air pressure reference (maybe that's what is on your bonnet) and hook it to a fitting on the fuel pump to pressurize the back side of the diaphragm, making the air pressure "help" the fuel pump spring.  So with each pound of air pressure, fuel pressure would rise one pound.  You have no mechanical pump, so I don't know how the car was set up.  You probably have an electric pump capable of about 15 psi and a regulator that can be boost referenced.  The difference with a system like this is that the regulator reduces fuel pressure to about 6 psi when there is no boost, then "allows" more pressure in proportion to air pressure.  Hope this make sense to you.