Edit the first [/quote] so that it is [quote] and it should work. Not sure how that happened.


Lawrenceville, GA

I made the baffle tonight!







The tricky part was figuring out how to make all of the bends. My solution was to make a steel form around which I can shape the baffle. The form surface is made with 12 gauge mild steel. I made sure to remove an burs and sharp edges to prevent it from cutting the aluminum. I had a piece of scrap 3/4" square tubing which I welded to the bottom in order to clamp the tool into a vise.







The aluminum blank is clamped to the form and the flanges are hammered into shape. I forgot to take picture while making it so these will have to do.







It worked great for the 18 gauge aluminum!







Tomorrow, I plan to dry fit it. I'll use some duct tape to hold it in place while I turn the engine over by hand to make sure everything clears. Two of the angles were a bit of an educated guess. If it clears, I'll swing by my friend's shop and get it welded in place.


Lawrenceville, GA

So... I finally got to work on this again.  I came up with another method that I think can work out better.  It will be removable which will be good for changes or modifications.  I simply made some studs for the rocker stands and the baffle mounts to the studs.  It is a simple design, 1 1/2" tubing which the grommet fits inside and there is about 1/16" clearance between the top of the tube and the valve cover and clearance where necessary for the rocker arms.  I haven't put it to the test yet but I did take it for a spin up the road and nothing blew up, so that's good


Lawrenceville, GA

You do awesome work Charlie.

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

So, this didn't seem to help at all.  I thought maybe it is still able to draw oil in from below the baffle plate so I revised the design by welding the piece I cut out with a hole saw.



That still didn't help, so I figured that it must be flowing across the roof of the valve cover.  Since the baffle tube is not a perfect seal against the top of the valve cover, when that oil gets to the grommet, it flows across the grommet and to the pcv valve inlet.

I remembered the baffled grommets I tried a long time ago that seemed to severely restrict the flow of the breathers.  I still had them and the plan was to simply trim them so they are no longer baffled, but simply a long tube to extend from the roof of the valve cover, in hopes that the oil flow would be diverted far enough away from the pcv valve inlet that it does not get sucked in.  While investigating the grommets, I found the reason for the poor previous performance.  A very thin film of rubber is left from the molding process which blocks the flow.  I trimmed that with an xacto knife, and tried it.  The baffled grommet is too long to use in conjunction with my baffle, so it is only the baffled grommet.  Flow through the baffled grommet seems to be good now and it has solved the problem as the top of the valve cover is finally dry.



Lawrenceville, GA