So, this didn't seem to help at all.  I thought maybe it is still able to draw oil in from below the baffle plate so I revised the design by welding the piece I cut out with a hole saw.



That still didn't help, so I figured that it must be flowing across the roof of the valve cover.  Since the baffle tube is not a perfect seal against the top of the valve cover, when that oil gets to the grommet, it flows across the grommet and to the pcv valve inlet.

I remembered the baffled grommets I tried a long time ago that seemed to severely restrict the flow of the breathers.  I still had them and the plan was to simply trim them so they are no longer baffled, but simply a long tube to extend from the roof of the valve cover, in hopes that the oil flow would be diverted far enough away from the pcv valve inlet that it does not get sucked in.  While investigating the grommets, I found the reason for the poor previous performance.  A very thin film of rubber is left from the molding process which blocks the flow.  I trimmed that with an xacto knife, and tried it.  The baffled grommet is too long to use in conjunction with my baffle, so it is only the baffled grommet.  Flow through the baffled grommet seems to be good now and it has solved the problem as the top of the valve cover is finally dry.



Lawrenceville, GA

You do awesome work Charlie.

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

So... I finally got to work on this again.  I came up with another method that I think can work out better.  It will be removable which will be good for changes or modifications.  I simply made some studs for the rocker stands and the baffle mounts to the studs.  It is a simple design, 1 1/2" tubing which the grommet fits inside and there is about 1/16" clearance between the top of the tube and the valve cover and clearance where necessary for the rocker arms.  I haven't put it to the test yet but I did take it for a spin up the road and nothing blew up, so that's good


Lawrenceville, GA

I made the baffle tonight!







The tricky part was figuring out how to make all of the bends. My solution was to make a steel form around which I can shape the baffle. The form surface is made with 12 gauge mild steel. I made sure to remove an burs and sharp edges to prevent it from cutting the aluminum. I had a piece of scrap 3/4" square tubing which I welded to the bottom in order to clamp the tool into a vise.







The aluminum blank is clamped to the form and the flanges are hammered into shape. I forgot to take picture while making it so these will have to do.







It worked great for the 18 gauge aluminum!







Tomorrow, I plan to dry fit it. I'll use some duct tape to hold it in place while I turn the engine over by hand to make sure everything clears. Two of the angles were a bit of an educated guess. If it clears, I'll swing by my friend's shop and get it welded in place.


Lawrenceville, GA

Edit the first [/quote] so that it is [quote] and it should work. Not sure how that happened.


Lawrenceville, GA

See the five buttons in the upper right of each post? Click the one identified as Quote for the post you want to quote.

I'm using Turbocad 9.5 Professional.

OK thanks so much it is great to have the topic that prompted the response to see while you are working on an answer.

Oops still doesn't look the same!

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

See the five buttons in the upper right of each post? Click the one identified as Quote for the post you want to quote.



I'm using Turbocad 9.5 Professional.


Lawrenceville, GA

"Yeah Paul, you're right. Mine has that big diverter, too. I never questioned what it was for.
How do we get fresh air to the bottom of the crankcase? Or, don't you think we need to...? "There was a diagram with some of the Y block introduuction literature that showed the air flow through the engine or at least what FoMoCo thought it was. The air went into the oil filler through the hair filter and down into the valley. The baffle under the valley cover was shown diverting the air flow up into the rocker arm covers through the big holes in the heads. Then back down into the valley through the rest of the holes in the head and then through the holes at the back of the valley around the dist drive and into the crank case. This was all motovated by the road draft tube on the side of the block at least in 54. This design didn't seem to work too well for the rocker arm covers and the valley of the engine as anyone who has disassembled an early gunked up motor can attest. By end of production FoMoCo put the PCV pickup at the rear of the valley cover with at least one or two other variants. The PCV valve was on the front of the 2 bbl manifold. But as far as I know the baffle stayed in the same place as did the big holes around the pushrods.
.
Now two questions:

How do you paste part of a previous post which is highlighted in white, in a reply? What I did in this post was "cut and paste" but it isn't as clear.

Also Charlie what drawing software are you using?





Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

I'm aware of the moroso baffle. I just like the experience I get by doing it myself.

It seams that the housing for the pcv valve does a good job of separating the oil from the air stream so the oil doesn't make it to the carb - the carb end of the hose is dry. For a system where the hose is connected directly to the valve, it will definitely be a problem.


Lawrenceville, GA

Yeah Paul, you're right.  Mine has that  big diverter, too.  I never questioned what it was for.
How do we get fresh air to the bottom of the crankcase?  Or, don't you think we need to...?

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected