Dave, All the valley covers I've seen have a dam welded underneath them to help redirect the airflow so that it doesn't simply traverse the lifter valley.



Regarding filtered air for circulation through the crankcase, I think someone has already suggested using the type of filler tube that has a sealed cap but has the bung on its side to allow the attachment of an air hose that goes to the carb air filter. This was a common setup on Scrubs in the 60's.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

I was wondering if, with a pcv setup, you could install a filter down on the left-hand side of the block where the road draft set up was, and use a solid (no breather) style fill cap- Seems that would evacuate the crankcase much better, plus the incoming air would be drawn through an actual filter, instead of whatever the fillcap "stuffins' " are. I'm going to try and rig that up if I ever get the motor put together ... /Duck

BOO- YA!!!

YEAH--NICE DRAWINGS --GOOD THINKING--(YOU DO NEED A BAFFLE WITH PVC OR YOU WILL SUCK IN RAW OIL INTO YOUR ENGINE AND BURN IT (BLUE SMOKE))...BUT MOROSO MAKES ONE FOR SALE AT ANY 'HOT ROD' SHOP---I THINK IT'S $4.OO OR SO....THAT'S WHAT I USED IN MY 55 BIRD (WITH THE ALUM. VALVE COVERS)....I GUESS YOU JUST DID NOT KNOW ABOUT IT--THAT'S WHAT THESE FORUMS ARE FOR- TO SPREAD THE NEWS OF THINGS LIKE THIS,,,,,,, BYE ....ED

Yeah Charlie,  I might have a dumb idea.  After looking at my timing chain cover, it is obvious to me, that nasty, crank-bottom air was flowing up from the front of the oil pan,through those two holes (with the oil dam for the timing chain) and out the down-draft tube.  Is there an air path that would circulate the air AROUND the inside of the engine?

It looks like with the installation of a new PVC valve, air will come in through the oil breather (if it has one), straight across the valley cover, and out the PVC.  What good is that?  The idea is to exhaust heavy engine air before it bakes on the sides.  We need to suck fresh air down to the bottom of the crank area, and draw nasty air out with the PVC valve.

I'm sure a PVC valve will change the air much faster than blow-by is created.

Your coalescing pan looks real good.  I will think more about this, later.

- Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Well, with breathers, there was no need for a baffle. With the pcv valve, the vacuum is enough to draw the oil in to the breather looking housing and drip out onto the valve cover. This is what I've come up with for the baffle.







It will be oriented something like this, viewed from the front of the engine:







With it in this orientation, the notch at the V on the lower edge (visible in the first image) should allow any oil that manages to get into the baffle to drain.



I'm allowing 5/8" of clearance between the bottom of the PCV housing and the floor of the baffle. The two shorter sides are 1/4" shorter. So I think airflow will be sufficient for that little valve. The overall height is about .800", leaving about .450" clearance for the rocker arms throughout their travel.



I'd like to make sure I get this right the first go round. Is there any baffle science I should be aware of? Anything I should change?





Lawrenceville, GA