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Thunderbird Valve Covers

Posted By Jim 15 Years Ago
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Jim
Posted 15 Years Ago
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I have had a set of NOS Thunderbird Valve covers (still in their boxes) fall into my hands. Before these go onto the engine, I want to take steps to ensure that they stay shiny and new looking. Any thoughts on the best way to protect these from grime, oxidation? I have thought of clear coating them, but there may be a better solution. Any thoughts and suggestions appreciated.

Jim (site owner)
'56 Club Sedan - Ted Eaton built 429 hp '292/318, '54 Sunliner - stock '302
John F
Posted 15 Years Ago
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POR 15 has a clear top coat for polished aluminum and chrome. You can buy it from Eastwood, or directly from POR 15 on line.

John F Smile

Ballwin, MO

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LON
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Jim ,

Talk to Robin or David Church . Don't they do powder coating ??? Jayson bought a set of March pulleys, A/C pump ,billet Alt ,billet P/S pump  for a SBF in Los Angeles .They have a clear coat on them .Never need polishing ,just wipe them with a damp cloth ..At first I thought they were expensive ,but when you see them in the flesh ,they are worth every penny .

Lon

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Ted
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Jim.  I had my covers for my ’55 ceramic coated in 1990.  Still nice and shiny and clean up easily.  Although HPC in Oklahoma City did my particular set, Jet Hot and other companies are around with similar coatings.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Jim:

Be aware that the T-Bird covers are slightly taller than the passenger ones, so slightly longer mounting studs were used by the factory.  Just letting you know about it so you won't pull your hair out when you see you can't use the grommets and still get the nuts on.  Sorry about that hair comment, couldn't resist.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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DANIEL TINDER
Posted 15 Years Ago
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I used "Zoop Seal" (bought from Eastwood?) on mine after polishing. No staining/corrosion yet after 3 years, but re-application is overdue. It's not cheap or permanent, but bare aluminum always looked best to me. Clear-coat or chrome just not the same. At least NOS aluminum won't be permeated with oil, which I understand can cause paint/coating failure (?).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
Jim
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Thanks John,



I already have T-bird covers on the motor but they are well used and have some pitting. I have spent a lot of time with polishing compound and wheels, but they still look old.



I thought of ceramic coating, but if it is like my headers, they are a dull chrome look. I'll take a look at Ted's next time I make a Waco run.

Jim (site owner)
'56 Club Sedan - Ted Eaton built 429 hp '292/318, '54 Sunliner - stock '302
yehaabill
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Y-Guy Jim:       Ask Ted, to take a photo, so we all can see....

                                         Bill

Bill

Pelham,Al

Johnson Rod
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DANIEL TINDER (2/16/2009)
I used "Zoop Seal" (bought from Eastwood?) on mine after polishing. No staining/corrosion yet after 3 years, but re-application is overdue. It's not cheap or permanent, but bare aluminum always looked best to me. Clear-coat or chrome just not the same. At least NOS aluminum won't be permeated with oil, which I understand can cause paint/coating failure (?).




Danial you are correct, Eastwood carries it. I saw it on E-Bay of all places, didn't know Eastwood sold stuff on E-Bay...





Johnson Rod



Southern CaliforniaBigGrin
GREENBIRD56
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The plating works over on Sixth Ave. in Tucson suggested (1) Powdercoat clear and (2) Chrome Plating (?). They also recommended a local bike shop guy who specializes polishing inside the fins - which I must assume will still be necessary on new Ford covers. 

My machinist suggested anodizing in gold or other colors - but I would guess this would be best used on an old set. He does this to the custom heat sinks he builds for various aerospace outfits. Anodizing in silver might be a good bet - but it won't be bright. 

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 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona



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