I should have added to the above post: This is a '64 F100, your results may be different. Hope this helps.../.

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

Hopefully these pics of a FORD 3 wire  alternator installation on a Y- block will speak for themself's. The only modification was to the ear that normally would secure the slotted adjuster arm. That threaded hole was drilled  out enough to clear the bolt and nut shown mounting the alternator to the stock unaltered generator brackets.  This mounts the alternator upside down  with the adjusting arm now secured to the apposite side of the alternator. The adjusting arm was donated from another Y-block generator that was more suitable for this install. There are a couple spacers added where necessary to make this simple and secure.  As it worked out, this install kept the belt in alignment with the crank pulley and no mechanical or electrical issues for many years and counting.    

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

OK-thanks.

You should have around 14V at idle with an alternator.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I just completed the conversion, would like to share what I did; I used a GM 3 wire. The mounting on this was for a 3/8 bolt, drilled it out to 7/16 for better support. I removed the U shaped bracket that supported the old generator. Drilled a hole in the middle then opened it up so was slotted. The slotted hole will then be used to mount this bracket to the block, where it came from. I then inserted a 7/16" threaded rod--about 14" thru this bracket then into the alternator finally into the triangular bracket from the water pump. I added spacers to the bolts into the water pump---about 1 5/8" long, also a 3/4"spacer in front of the alternator next to the triangular bracket. My friend has a lathe so made the spacers, but I am sure Ace has them. The other tricky part is the positioning arm needed to be lenghthed a couple of inches. The bolt that holds the arm is part of the engine mounting. If you can support the engine then replace the bolt with a stud  you might eliminate some issues. The wiring was simple, 10 ga from starter solenoid to alternator splice into this wire and run to alternator--hopefully you will get a pigtail to the the mle terminals on the alternator #2. The other terminal #1on the alternator goes to the switch. Yep probably have to remove the switch to find the "IGN" post. I added a socket between the switch and the alternator terminal  for a 194 bulb to provide some resistance. This light only stays on when starting. I will attempt to add some photo's, would welcome any questions on comments on how to simplify this project. At 1000 RPM I have about 14.4 Volts.