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By Skyliner57 - Last Month
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I just completed the conversion, would like to share what I did; I used a GM 3 wire. The mounting on this was for a 3/8 bolt, drilled it out to 7/16 for better support. I removed the U shaped bracket that supported the old generator. Drilled a hole in the middle then opened it up so was slotted. The slotted hole will then be used to mount this bracket to the block, where it came from. I then inserted a 7/16" threaded rod--about 14" thru this bracket then into the alternator finally into the triangular bracket from the water pump. I added spacers to the bolts into the water pump---about 1 5/8" long, also a 3/4"spacer in front of the alternator next to the triangular bracket. My friend has a lathe so made the spacers, but I am sure Ace has them. The other tricky part is the positioning arm needed to be lenghthened a couple of inches. The bolt that holds the arm is part of the engine mounting. If you can support the engine then replace the bolt with a stud you might eliminate some issues. The wiring was simple, 10 ga from starter solenoid to alternator splice into this wire and run to alternator--hopefully you will get a pigtail to the the male terminals on the alternator #2. The other terminal #1on the alternator goes to the switch. Yep probably have to remove the switch to find the "IGN" post. I added a socket between the switch and the alternator terminal for a 194 bulb to provide some resistance. This light only stays on when starting. I will attempt to add some photo's, would welcome any questions on comments on how to simplify this project. At 1000 RPM I have about 14.4 Volts.
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By paul2748 - Last Month
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You should have around 14V at idle with an alternator.
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By Skyliner57 - Last Month
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OK-thanks.
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By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
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By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
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Hopefully these pics of a FORD 3 wire alternator installation on a Y- block will speak for themself's. The only modification was to the ear that normally would secure the slotted adjuster arm. That threaded hole was drilled out enough to clear the bolt and nut shown mounting the alternator to the stock unaltered generator brackets. This mounts the alternator upside down with the adjusting arm now secured to the apposite side of the alternator. The adjusting arm was donated from another Y-block generator that was more suitable for this install. There are a couple spacers added where necessary to make this simple and secure. As it worked out, this install kept the belt in alignment with the crank pulley and no mechanical or electrical issues for many years and counting.
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By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
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I should have added to the above post: This is a '64 F100, your results may be different. Hope this helps.../.
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By Ted - Last Month
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Skyliner57. Thanks for the detailed information on your alternator swap. I target for 14.5-14.7 volts at 2000 rpm with no heavy electrical load (head lights, heater blower motor, etc.).
Your alternator installation is much like to what I did with my ’55 Customline back in the late Eighties with a similar three wire GM alternator. I only recently had to change that particular alternator out for another simply due to 200K+ miles on that alternator due to a diode failure. 35 years on that alternator was a good run and I believe it was a rebuilt unit when I initially purchased it. That initial alternator conversion took care of those routine generator and regulator issues that were cropping up before then.
Here’s a picture of what my bracket looks like when converting to an alternator. This is not my car but one on a ’56 Victoria that I did the conversion for. My car with over 200K miles since the alternator install is not very picture worthy right now.
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By Skyliner57 - Last Month
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Thanks Ted
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By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
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Ted that certainly says a lot for the 1 wire alternator. At the end of the day it's about improving our electrical systems rather than one's personal preferences....
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By DryLakesRacer - Last Month
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7 years ago I installed the T-Bird Alternator from CASCO on our 56 Victoria. Since it was for the the Bird a modification was made but easy to do and I was able to use the stock wires. A year later I added AC using the Vintage Air engine mount. This moved the alternator to the top and the CASCO unit would no longer fit. I bought a Powermaster single wire which did fit the mount and it used all the stock wire including the generator light which I wanted to maintain. The original regulator is now just a junction point with one small phenolic spacer. The 10 awg wire is enough to carry the needs under full load. The AC unit is only on high fan if the car is hot from sitting outside and not for very long as the low setting can keep the car very pleasant on a hot day.
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