Does anyone know if an MSD cap will fit the TSP distributor?   (HEI/with tach drive for Tbird)

The carbon button that contacts the rotor disintegrated.   Luckily I bought a spare but since this one failed with about 4,000 miles on it I would like to find something more reliable.

Note this is the second problem I've had with the distributor.  The coil was intermittent out of the box now this................it's 8 months old

The MSD 84335 (red) and MSD 84336 (black) distributor caps will work with the CRT & TSP Ford YBlk distributors.  To date, I have only used the Pertronix (0.6 ohm) and MSD (0.7 ohm) coils with the CRT & TSP distributors.  When available, I use the epoxy coils versus the oil filled coils.  Be sure you have the positive and negative sides of the coil hooked up correctly to the distributor wiring harness.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I need female terminals, MSD does not have that config in that size.  I just installed a new set of custom wires...................
Does anyone besides pertronix make an epoxy filled?

The MSD p/n 8222 and Holley Sniper p/n 556-153 coils are epoxy filled and ohm compatible for electronic ignitions.

I do have spare ‘plug in’ style distributor caps for the CRT/TSP distributors.  Just send me an email if you fail to find a ‘plug in’ replacement on your end.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thank you Ted.  I bought two extra caps and a module with the distributor.  I was hoping the MSD might be better quality, since this one was not even a year old.  I will use the spares, if another one fails prematurley I will see if my wires are long enough to crimp new ends on and get the MSD cap

The replacement CRT/TSP Cap (I believe same products are sold by CRT and TSP) has an abnormal amount of wear.  The button is about 70% gone and it's been in the car for ONLY 4 weeks.  I am using an MSB Blaster 2 coil (see following explanation), I am more than sure they will blame the MSD coil......  

This is why I have an MSD coil.  When I first purchased the CRT/TSP distributor/coil the car had an intermittent misfire.   The car had to be towed home because it stalled and would not start.   I called CRT he walked my through testing the coil and my readings indicated the coil was good.  I moved on to other trouble shooting..........After getting stuck on the road a couple of more times, I tried my old coil and the problem went away.  CRT sent me a replacement coil which was in a TSP package.  I decided to try an MSD Blaster2 coil which has the EXACT same specs as the TSP (see below).

For testing purposes, I have replaced the MSD coil with a TSP and installed my 2nd replacement CRT/TSP cap.  I am on my 3rd coil and 3rd cap, 2nd rotor....................since last August, I am not happy with the "quality".  

I bought an MSD replacement cap and rotor because I have little confidence in this product at this point.  I will re-terminate the spark plug wires to accommodate the MSD cap male connectors

Does anyone have an idea why these buttons would disintegrate at this rate?

TSP Coil Specs:


MSD Blaster 2 coil specs:

Just a few thoughts:
You said you don't like the cap/rotor quality, what about it ? I would Check the rotor where the carbon pin rests on, is it aligned, clean, dry and smooth ? Does it have good spring pressure ? It moves up and down ? Does the carbon move at all ?

Does the distributor have Excessive Shaft End Play ? If the shaft moves up and down too much, it can crush the carbon pin or cause inconsistent contact.

Rotor/Cap Mismatch, is it the correct cap ? Not all rotors and caps are compatible, even if they look similar. An incorrect rotor height can exert too much pressure on the spring-loaded pin, causing it to wear prematurely.

Is there good grounds connecting battery, car and engine ?

Correct gap for spark plugs, too big can burn the carbon.


1936 Ford 3W Coupe : 56 T-Bird 312, 47 Packard 3 speed, 40 juice brakes.
1968 Merc Cyclone FB GT 390, Getting a better front clip!
1977 Ford F-250 Supercab RWD Explorer Long box.
1976 Chev Camaro RS LT
Future rebuild : 1949 Ford F-1

____________________________

Your problem sounds like it could be related to the electrical system on your vehicle.  Is this distributor installed in a ’55 Thunderbird?  If so, when the electrical system was switched to 12 volts, was the battery polarity changed from positive ground to negative ground?

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Car is 12 volt negative ground (negative battery cable goes directly to engine block).  Alternator puts out 14.2 volts.  All connections to the coil are correct per this diagram Yellow to coil (-), Red and Ignition +12 to Coil (+), Black to Engine ground via intake manifold, NO BALLAST resistor, Tach wire capped not connected




This is a picture of the first cap (I used white paint in the cavity so it would show up in the pic):