TSP/CRT Distributor Cap?


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By RossL - 2 Months Ago
Does anyone know if an MSD cap will fit the TSP distributor?   (HEI/with tach drive for Tbird)

The carbon button that contacts the rotor disintegrated.   Luckily I bought a spare but since this one failed with about 4,000 miles on it I would like to find something more reliable.

Note this is the second problem I've had with the distributor.  The coil was intermittent out of the box now this................it's 8 months old
By Ted - 2 Months Ago
The MSD 84335 (red) and MSD 84336 (black) distributor caps will work with the CRT & TSP Ford YBlk distributors.  To date, I have only used the Pertronix (0.6 ohm) and MSD (0.7 ohm) coils with the CRT & TSP distributors.  When available, I use the epoxy coils versus the oil filled coils.  Be sure you have the positive and negative sides of the coil hooked up correctly to the distributor wiring harness.
By RossL - 2 Months Ago
Ted (3/16/2026)
The MSD 84335 (red) and MSD 84336 (black) distributor caps will work with the CRT & TSP Ford YBlk distributors.  To date, I have only used the Pertronix (0.6 ohm) and MSD (0.7 ohm) coils with the CRT & TSP distributors.  When available, I use the epoxy coils versus the oil filled coils.  Be sure you have the positive and negative sides of the coil hooked up correctly to the distributor wiring harness.

I need female terminals, MSD does not have that config in that size.  I just installed a new set of custom wires...................
Does anyone besides pertronix make an epoxy filled?
By Ted - 2 Months Ago
RossL (3/16/2026)
I need female terminals, MSD does not have that config in that size.  I just installed a new set of custom wires...................
Does anyone besides Pertronix make an epoxy filled?

The MSD p/n 8222 and Holley Sniper p/n 556-153 coils are epoxy filled and ohm compatible for electronic ignitions.

I do have spare ‘plug in’ style distributor caps for the CRT/TSP distributors.  Just send me an email if you fail to find a ‘plug in’ replacement on your end.

By RossL - 2 Months Ago
Ted (3/17/2026)
RossL (3/16/2026)
I need female terminals, MSD does not have that config in that size.  I just installed a new set of custom wires...................
Does anyone besides Pertronix make an epoxy filled?

The MSD p/n 8222 and Holley Sniper p/n 556-153 coils are epoxy filled and ohm compatible for electronic ignitions.

I do have spare ‘plug in’ style distributor caps for the CRT/TSP distributors.  Just send me an email if you fail to find a ‘plug in’ replacement on your end.



Thank you Ted.  I bought two extra caps and a module with the distributor.  I was hoping the MSD might be better quality, since this one was not even a year old.  I will use the spares, if another one fails prematurley I will see if my wires are long enough to crimp new ends on and get the MSD cap

By RossL - Last Month
The replacement CRT/TSP Cap (I believe same products are sold by CRT and TSP) has an abnormal amount of wear.  The button is about 70% gone and it's been in the car for ONLY 4 weeks.  I am using an MSB Blaster 2 coil (see following explanation), I am more than sure they will blame the MSD coil......  

This is why I have an MSD coil.  When I first purchased the CRT/TSP distributor/coil the car had an intermittent misfire.   The car had to be towed home because it stalled and would not start.   I called CRT he walked my through testing the coil and my readings indicated the coil was good.  I moved on to other trouble shooting..........After getting stuck on the road a couple of more times, I tried my old coil and the problem went away.  CRT sent me a replacement coil which was in a TSP package.  I decided to try an MSD Blaster2 coil which has the EXACT same specs as the TSP (see below).

For testing purposes, I have replaced the MSD coil with a TSP and installed my 2nd replacement CRT/TSP cap.  I am on my 3rd coil and 3rd cap, 2nd rotor....................since last August, I am not happy with the "quality".  

I bought an MSD replacement cap and rotor because I have little confidence in this product at this point.  I will re-terminate the spark plug wires to accommodate the MSD cap male connectors

Does anyone have an idea why these buttons would disintegrate at this rate?


TSP Coil Specs:
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/529f2bdd-989b-43ec-8c55-b81c.jpg

MSD Blaster 2 coil specs:

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/78e4386c-b6e9-4b8f-94ce-c80a.png
By Robs36Ford - Last Month
Just a few thoughts:
You said you don't like the cap/rotor quality, what about it ? I would Check the rotor where the carbon pin rests on, is it aligned, clean, dry and smooth ? Does it have good spring pressure ? It moves up and down ? Does the carbon move at all ?

Does the distributor have Excessive Shaft End Play ? If the shaft moves up and down too much, it can crush the carbon pin or cause inconsistent contact.

Rotor/Cap Mismatch, is it the correct cap ? Not all rotors and caps are compatible, even if they look similar. An incorrect rotor height can exert too much pressure on the spring-loaded pin, causing it to wear prematurely.

Is there good grounds connecting battery, car and engine ?

Correct gap for spark plugs, too big can burn the carbon.
By KULTULZ - Last Month

- REMOVED -

By Ted - Last Month
Your problem sounds like it could be related to the electrical system on your vehicle.  Is this distributor installed in a ’55 Thunderbird?  If so, when the electrical system was switched to 12 volts, was the battery polarity changed from positive ground to negative ground?
By RossL - Last Month
Ted (4/19/2026)
Your problem sounds like it could be related to the electrical system on your vehicle.  Is this distributor installed in a ’55 Thunderbird?  If so, when the electrical system was switched to 12 volts, was the battery polarity changed from positive ground to negative ground?


Car is 12 volt negative ground (negative battery cable goes directly to engine block).  Alternator puts out 14.2 volts.  All connections to the coil are correct per this diagram Yellow to coil (-), Red and Ignition +12 to Coil (+), Black to Engine ground via intake manifold, NO BALLAST resistor, Tach wire capped not connected

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/b630222d-7793-4c0d-b096-aacb.png
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/7ffb6419-0ff2-480b-a449-b668.jpg

This is a picture of the first cap (I used white paint in the cavity so it would show up in the pic):
By RossL - Last Month
Robs36Ford (4/19/2026)
Just a few thoughts:
You said you don't like the cap/rotor quality, what about it ? I would Check the rotor where the carbon pin rests on, is it aligned, clean, dry and smooth ? Does it have good spring pressure ? It moves up and down ? Does the carbon move at all ?

Does the distributor have Excessive Shaft End Play ? If the shaft moves up and down too much, it can crush the carbon pin or cause inconsistent contact.

Rotor/Cap Mismatch, is it the correct cap ? Not all rotors and caps are compatible, even if they look similar. An incorrect rotor height can exert too much pressure on the spring-loaded pin, causing it to wear prematurely.

Is there good grounds connecting battery, car and engine ?

Correct gap for spark plugs, too big can burn the carbon.

You said you don't like the cap/rotor quality, what about it ?   The carbon keeps melting

I would Check the rotor where the carbon pin rests on, is it aligned, clean, dry and smooth ? I've tried three rotors all were new

Does it have good spring pressure ? It moves up and down ? Does the carbon move at all ?  The carbon does NOT move at all on the TSP caps.  Only the contact on the rotor has movement.   The Carbon Contact on MSD cap has some spring movement.  I have NOT installed this one yet.

Does the distributor have Excessive Shaft End Play ? If the shaft moves up and down too much, it can crush the carbon pin or cause inconsistent contact.  Maybe 1/16" doesn't look to be excessive This was measured with the distributor out of the car

Rotor/Cap Mismatch, is it the correct cap ? Not all rotors and caps are compatible, even if they look similar. An incorrect rotor height can exert too much pressure on the spring-loaded pin, causing it to wear prematurely.  Up until this point ALL Rotors and Caps are new from TSP

Is there good grounds connecting battery, car and engine ?  Negative battery cable goes directly to block.  Ignition ground goes to intake manifold bolt

Correct gap for spark plugs, too big can burn the carbon.  Plugs are relatively new and gapped to .034


By Cliff - Last Month
I'm starting to not like aftermarket ignition parts, I have a Mallory Unilite setup in my Thunderbird, it will shut off at idle (sometimes) then it will restart and not do it again for a while, I've had many problems with the china made parts, Even the MSD parts have caused me problems (long term not short term).
By tomfiii - Last Month
A friend with a four cylinder antique motorcycle had similar problem and found carbon used was too soft.
By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
It appears that maybe there are issues with the secondary ignition system. Some of the above excellent suggestions regarding off-shore poor quality and mismatched caps and rotors on a particular distributor are top on the list. With a depth caliper, measure the distance from the cap where it seats on the distributor to the carbon brush.  Then measure same from the strib to the rotor contact spring to get an proximate idea of how high or low the rotor resides within the cap. Since it's the carbon brush that's being destroyed, a gap there would create arcing voltage which would cause very high temperatures there.   If the rotor is positioned too high it probably would come in contact with the upper cap and tower conductors also.  As one stated above, I too have had my share of issues with aftermarket ignition components and systems. After an MSD 6A box failure, I converted my 64 truck to a Ford Duraspark system that performs flawlessly but that's a subject for another thread....
By Ted - Last Month
Have you checked to ensure that the metal tension strap on the rotor is high enough?  When installing the cap, you should feel the spring tension of the rotor strap before the cap is fully in place.  Ford Deaborn makes a good suggestion in measuring the height of the installed rotor versus the depth within the cap.

MSD has had an issue in the past with the spring tensioned strap on the rotor not being high enough to contact the center pole of the cap.  If there is an air gap present between the rotor and the cap, then erosion of the caps’ center contact can occur and even more so with some of the high output ignition systems.  The same issue can occur on MSD clone distributors.  When this is found, simply bend the strap so it’s higher.
By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
The post adjacent the "JA" letters being 1, in a CW direction note post 3. There is evidence of the rotor tip riding high scraping/chaffing the cap and brass post. There is for sure rotor position issues. There also appears to be a lot of carbon deposits particularly at the left area of the cap. 
By RossL - Last Month
FORD DEARBORN (4/19/2026)
It appears that maybe there are issues with the secondary ignition system. Some of the above excellent suggestions regarding off-shore poor quality and mismatched caps and rotors on a particular distributor are top on the list. With a depth caliper, measure the distance from the cap where it seats on the distributor to the carbon brush.  Then measure same from the strib to the rotor contact spring to get an proximate idea of how high or low the rotor resides within the cap. Since it's the carbon brush that's being destroyed, a gap there would create arcing voltage which would cause very high temperatures there.   If the rotor is positioned too high it probably would come in contact with the upper cap and tower conductors also.  As one stated above, I too have had my share of issues with aftermarket ignition components and systems. After an MSD 6A box failure, I converted my 64 truck to a Ford Duraspark system that performs flawlessly but that's a subject for another thread....


If anything I was thinking it might be too high.  You can see a witness mark on the rotor.http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/69dfea9e-fcf6-4829-9e72-49ea.jpg


This my 3rd cap that was on the car for maybe 200 miles with the TSP coil.  It looks like 50% of  the button is already gone    http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/01137663-e3a4-4611-bbfb-32a6.jpg

By KULTULZ - Last Month
Gentlemen,

You are beating yourselves to death.

Supposedly all of these off-shore junk distributors are a supposed GM - HEI SERIES COPY.

I know one manufacturer's ICM can be interchanged directly with a genuine AC DELO module. If that is so, it may be the cap style(s) is interchangeable also.

Possibly buy a GENUINE DELCO or STANDARD IGNITION (at the least) cap-rotor (integral or non-integral coil style) and check the fit. You are fighting junk parts.
By 55blacktie - Last Month
[quote]KULTULZ (4/20/2026)
Gentlemen,

You are beating yourselves to death.

Supposedly all of these off-shore junk distributors are a supposed GM - HEI SERIES COPY.



I know one manufacturer's ICM can be interchanged directly with a genuine AC DELO module. If that is so, it may be the cap style(s) is interchangeable also.

Possibly buy a GENUINE DELCO or STANDARD IGNITION (at the least) cap-rotor (integral or non-integral coil style) and check the fit. You are fighting junk parts.
[/quote

Just about all ignition coils are made in China. Got an original distributor? The replacement points, condenser, and cap most likely are made in China as well. Although I've not seen anyone post a problem with condensers lately, it wasn't long ago that numerous complaints were posted on several forums. The FAST coil that I purchased was made in Tennessee. Is it better? We'll see. MSD/Mallory/Holley also making parts in China. 

Most fuel pumps, whether mechanical or electric, are also made in China. There have been a lot of complaints about them, too. 
By KULTULZ - Last Month
Just about all ignition coils are made in China. Got an original distributor? The replacement points, condenser, and cap most likely are made in China as well. Although I've not seen anyone post a problem with condensers lately, it wasn't long ago that numerous complaints were posted on several forums. The FAST coil that I purchased was made in Tennessee. Is it better? We'll see. MSD/Mallory/Holley also making parts in China.


I'm sorry, I thought CAP and ROTOR was the discussion topic on this thread.

If one is still using mechanical points in this day and age ...

FORD NOS points can be found online. The condenser is still available from FORD.

A quality CAP & ROTOR are for the most part made here. It all depends on market demand and the cost to the vendor. Most consumers shop by price and not quality.  If low demand, it is cheaper to source off-shore as it is very expensive to manufacture here, especially low demand components.

Even if a quality service part, whether MOTORCRAFT or DELCO is manufactured off-shore, it will be a better quality part than made by an off-shore manufacturer if made to the vendors (sellers) standards. The parts vendor can choose what quality of the part he chooses to be made. Off-shore manufacturing is only meeting their (vendor) stated stated standards, not industry.


By 55blacktie - Last Month
KULTULZ (4/20/2026)
Just about all ignition coils are made in China. Got an original distributor? The replacement points, condenser, and cap most likely are made in China as well. Although I've not seen anyone post a problem with condensers lately, it wasn't long ago that numerous complaints were posted on several forums. The FAST coil that I purchased was made in Tennessee. Is it better? We'll see. MSD/Mallory/Holley also making parts in China.


I'm sorry, I thought CAP and ROTOR was the discussion topic on this thread.

If one is still using mechanical points in this day and age ...

FORD NOS points can be found online. The condenser is still available from FORD.


A quality CAP & ROTOR are for the most part made here. It all depends on market demand and the cost to the vendor. Most consumers shop by price and not quality.  If low demand, it is cheaper to source off-shore as it is very expensive to manufacture here, especially low demand components.

Even if a quality service part, whether MOTORCRAFT or DELCO is manufactured off-shore, it will be a better quality part than made by an off-shore manufacturer if made to the vendors (sellers) standards. The parts vendor can choose what quality of the part he chooses to be made. Off-shore manufacturing is only meeting their (vendor) stated stated standards, not industry.




I would like to know the specific sources for quality ignition parts that are made in America. Considering that Ford vehicles have been manufactured with some globally sourced parts for many years (all manufacturers have), why would parts purchased over the counter be an exception?

By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
RossL do you still have the original tach drive distributor? If so and if it's a '57, there is a good chance it could be rebuilt.  
By RossL - Last Month
There was another issue that could be part of this problem.  I had a muffler blow out.   My exhaust shop thinks it was from a backfire.......  I wonder if this could have fried the module in the distributor?????
The backfire was pretty loud.  I replaced the timing chain, I left the distributor in the engine while I replaced the chain.  When I went to start it, I heard a loud backfire and I had to re-time the engine.  Once I got it running, it ran very smooth, about the best it's ever run, so I kind of forgot the backfire.

I have a replacement module, I will give it a try tomorrow.

I had this distributor since the end of last summer.  Beside the (half) dead on arrival coil, the car ran well for months without killing the rotor button.  Now these caps will not last a month.














  
By KULTULZ - Last Month

DELETED

By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
Even though you are dealing with off shore "stuff," it doesn't hurt to try to solve the issues.  Since the carbon brush is failing resulting in a lot of carbon deposits on the inside of the cap, cross fire now becomes a reality causing backfire. Ozone is yet another product generated by the higher voltage which is highly corrosive if not properly vented.  I think it's safe to say the quality of this off-shore stuff is not consistent with some having no issues and yet some folks reporting many problems as you are.  Your coil is one with a low primary resistance and you are running without a ballast resistor. That combination makes for a super hot and very powerful spark. The cap and rotor are more than likely not up to the task like the high quality extra WIDE caps and rotors used by the OEM's before coil-on-plug became standard. If running a small cap then it must be top shelf quality. It was suggested above that possibly since it looks like a GM copy, try following up with that in mind. Otherwise, the ignition system could be toned down some with a coil having a primary resistance of about 1.5 ohms? Maybe by doing that would allow the cap and rotor to live happy.  After all, how hot of a spark do we really need for our build? These are just a few of the many things that come to mind....
By 55blacktie - Last Month
FORD DEARBORN (4/21/2026)
Even though you are dealing with off shore "stuff," it doesn't hurt to try to solve the issues.  Since the carbon brush is failing resulting in a lot of carbon deposits on the inside of the cap, cross fire now becomes a reality causing backfire. Ozone is yet another product generated by the higher voltage which is highly corrosive if not properly vented.  I think it's safe to say the quality of this off-shore stuff is not consistent with some having no issues and yet some folks reporting many problems as you are.  Your coil is one with a low primary resistance and you are running without a ballast resistor. That combination makes for a super hot and very powerful spark. The cap and rotor are more than likely not up to the task like the high quality extra WIDE caps and rotors used by the OEM's before coil-on-plug became standard. If running a small cap then it must be top shelf quality. It was suggested above that possibly since it looks like a GM copy, try following up with that in mind. Otherwise, the ignition system could be toned down some with a coil having a primary resistance of about 1.5 ohms? Maybe by doing that would allow the cap and rotor to live happy.  After all, how hot of a spark do we really need for our build? These are just a few of the many things that come to mind....

I agree that the quality of parts, regardless of where they are manufactured, can be hit-or-miss. As far as I know, only the Pertronix 1 uses a coil/w 1.5 ohm resistance and ballast resistor. If using the correct coil & electronic distributor combination that's recommended by the manufacturers, either the part(s) are defective, or they weren't correctly installed.                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Ted Eaton has said that he prefers a .035 plug gap for both points & electronic ignition. A wider gap may provide a hotter, longer spark, but it can also tax components. Ted also recommends the larger distributor caps, but you have to find one that not only fits the distributor but will also not have any clearance issues. My CRT tach-drive distributor for my 55 Tbird came with the small cap. It's still in the box, so I can't comment. The NGK plugs that I intend to use are pre-gapped .039. I will try both as-is and go from there. 
By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
I forgot about Pertronix and all related components. What limits a lot of choices here is it's a mechanical tach vehicle. I have found Pertronix 2 with the Pertronix 1.5 ohm coil works good without resistor.  Eliminating the resistor increased the spark energy significantly.  I'm not at home this week to check my notes. However, if anyone is interested, I would be willing to set those components in motion just to produce some real time current and temperature numbers when I can. Sorry for straying away from the thread because to my knowledge, Pertronix does not offer a tach drive distributor. 
By RossL - Last Month
The MSD rotor arrived yesterday.  There is a tag attached to it to measure and adjust the tang.  I have never seen a spec for tang height, I never bought an MSD rotor before.

Part number for rotor 8467, cap 84333 (black) 8433 (red)

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/7b12e26a-6b20-46fe-89a8-0ae0.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/cc3340bf-e39b-410d-93d2-ade5.jpg
By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
They are making an attempt to address the mismatched/anything goes ignition parts being sold these days - this is encouraging. Would you post a picture of the inside area of the cap showing the conductive posts and carbon brush?  MSD is cast on the top surface but years ago, the quality manufacturers used to  cast in their "hall mark."  Just curious if MSD has any marking as such in there....
By RossL - Last Month
FORD DEARBORN (4/23/2026)
They are making an attempt to address the mismatched/anything goes ignition parts being sold these days - this is encouraging. Would you post a picture of the inside area of the cap showing the conductive posts and carbon brush?  MSD is cast on the top surface but years ago, the quality manufacturers used to  cast in their "hall mark."  Just curious if MSD has any marking as such in there....

This is the CRT cap (with semi worn button):http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/a4155e38-4e32-4d3e-9760-9edd.jpg




This is the MSD cap (has a vent):http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3858c84f-b7ef-4c45-8c33-c1b2.jpg
By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
Thanks for the pics, there is no manufacturer's mark in the cap but that doesn't mean is won't be a good product. It does have an ozone vent and with the included instructions to insure the rotor spring is set right shows they are trying to get it right....we'll see.
By RossL - Last Month
FORD DEARBORN (4/24/2026)
Thanks for the pics, there is no manufacturer's mark in the cap but that doesn't mean is won't be a good product. It does have an ozone vent and with the included instructions to insure the rotor spring is set right shows they are trying to get it right....we'll see.


The top of the cap is embossed (like the rotor) "MSD"