Although I make a conscious effort to watch my language when around people, if this happened to me while alone, working in the garage, I would, to quote Kramer, "Let the expletives fly." 

After trying a few options, I decided to use an Oscillating Multi Tool with a Carbide Blade to cut the steel block.   It was about the only thing that would fit into the pulley.  After about 15 minutes this is what I have

I hope you already had the oscillating tool. considering your success (I was expecting the worst), maybe that's something I need to add to my toolbox. 

Is Hill's going to refund your money for the puller?

 I already had the tool.  Cheap version from Walmart.  I bought to cut wood, never considered it for this job until I saw the blades in Home Depot.  3 carbide blades were $43.   The vendor that sold me the puller said he would refund and send back to Hills

I thought the oscillator looked like something from Harbor Tool. If I were a professional mechanic, I would look elsewhere for tools, but okay for something that's not used often. I've never had a problem returning defective tools. I bet those 3 blades cost more than the tool. 

Let us know how the other puller works out.

New puller arrived.  Besides the swivel end the threaded rod looks like it's about 1/16" thicker.  I have to check the threads in the crank before I move forward.   I bough a 6" 9/16 18 bolt to test the threads, easier to manage with a longer bolts to thread it straight in.  I will use the stock bolt when I install and use the puller

The new puller looks stouter to me as well. 

I've used a lot of HF tools in my home garage. As a hobbyist I find the satisfactory. For a day to day operation I would definitely go for brand names. Hope you find a way to get that damper off soon. Are you soaking it with penetrating oil?

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

The Casco tool made the difference.  I talked to someone that uses the Hill's version, but he welded a small plate to the end of the threaded rod that would contact the crank bolt.  I expected once it started moving it would pop off quickly, but coming off was a slow steady process.  I used an impact wrench for the entire removal to keep the crank from moving and to save my back from leaning over the fender turning the wrench by hand

I am going to buy the metal sleeve to repair the snout, it's not that bad, but why chance it.   The rubber looks OK to me.  Any opinions?

Big relief...................... until I realized I am not even half way to completing this job.   I bought the installation tool I can't deal with another setback

Just my opinion, but there might be things going on that you can't see. If you send it out to Damper Doctor/Damper Dudes to be rebuilt, it should never have to be done again.