I want to check the orientation and condition of my timing set.  Unless it looks brand new I will just replace it.

Can anyone tell me the size of the bolt holding the crank pulley?   Do I have to remove the radiator or oil pan to remove the timing cover?

Are you missing the bolt or just want to know socket size? The socket size is 13/16ths. I recommend you use the correct puller when removing the dampener. Damper Dudes said that mine was in better shape than most they receive because I didn't use a hammer to remove it. The correct puller & replacement bolt (if needed) are available from Tbird parts suppliers. 

You do not have to remove the oil pan, but you do need to remove the front bolts that are attached to the pan & front motor mount. You'll need to support the engine while removing the timing cover. If you can remove the dampener without removing the radiator, you won't need to remove the radiator to remove the timing cover. My radiator was already removed when I removed the dampener. 

Unlike the car and truck FYB dampers where the timing marks are located on the damper ring, the timing marks on the Thunderbird damper are locked to the pulley.  The T-Bird damper ring is located behind the belt pulley and in front of the timing cover. The damper ring is ‘rubber’ mounted and can fail with age.
 

You should not have any problems using the correct puller; however, you might have considered buying the correct installation tool while you were at it. I realize that no one likes spending money on tools that seldom will be used, but sometimes you're money-ahead by doing so. Having the right tool saves time & prevents damage. 

I forgot about using an impact wrench to loosen the bolt. Definitely needed to remove the radiator. 

I tried the correct tool from Hills Thunderbird.   I was using the crank shaft bolt for a contact point for the tool to press against.  The end of the tool keeps walking off the crank bolt, at one point the tool bent (see picture below).   I was able to straighten it with heat.   Now I inserted the tool directly into the crank, which is what Hill's recommended.  I ground off the treads on the end of the tool to keep them from galling the threads on the crank.

I am using a breaker bar and socket to turn the tool.   The pulley doesn't want to budge.  I am going to try an impact wrench, maybe the jolts will help it break free????    To do this I have to move the AC condenser for the impact wrench to fit. 
 Any problem using the impact wrench?
 

I hope you already had the oscillating tool. considering your success (I was expecting the worst), maybe that's something I need to add to my toolbox. 

Is Hill's going to refund your money for the puller?

I thought the oscillator looked like something from Harbor Tool. If I were a professional mechanic, I would look elsewhere for tools, but okay for something that's not used often. I've never had a problem returning defective tools. I bet those 3 blades cost more than the tool. 

Let us know how the other puller works out.

Just my opinion, but there might be things going on that you can't see. If you send it out to Damper Doctor/Damper Dudes to be rebuilt, it should never have to be done again. 

I used Damper Doctor because Ted Eaton recommended them. 

The older dampers have been known to slip without showing an obvious damage. This will move the timing marks and make timing the engine difficult or impossible. Either Ted Eatons or Daniel Jessup (the Hot Rod Reverand". Daniels webpage has a lot of videos covering the Y-Block engines. I think its well worth the money to have the damper rebuilt.