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Remove rust in coolant passage 55 Thunderbird 292

Posted By RossL 5 days ago
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MoonShadow
Posted 29 minutes ago
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Get a set of these.
FTIHTRY 3-Piece Flexible Socket Extension Bar Set 1/2" 1/4" 3/8" Shaft Drive 10" 8" 6"


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
Daniel Jessup
Posted 2 hours ago
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This post will help explain some of the dilemma: https://www.hotrodreverend.com/post/2019/07/13/1955-ford-part-81-running-with-the-devil

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 3 hours ago
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Are you still running last year's gas?

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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RossL
Posted 8 hours ago
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I got all the plugs back in.   I had to make this tool to be able to drive the plugs in around the Chassis and Power Steering stuff.   There was no way to drive the plugs straight into the block (the plugs are angled).   They sell a tool to install the plugs but since I hope to never do this job again I opted to make the tool.

I sacrificed a Socket, 1/2" to 3/3" adapter, and a 3/8 extension.  I had to weld it together to keep everything firm when I hammered the plug.   Heating up and bending the extension was trial and error.   I had to rebend it for the plug over the oil filter.   I had to rebend it for the plug over the oil filter.  I had to grind down the end of the socket because the plugs compress when they are driven into the block. 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/abbcc382-718b-46a5-bf70-f138.jpg
RossL
Posted 8 hours ago
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Daniel Jessup (5/23/2025)
Are you running "gasoline" that has ethanol in it? If so, the boiling point of your fuel is much lower than pure gas would be. If this is the case I have some videos to show the issues firsthand.


In NJ ethanol fuel is very hard to find.   I might use a half a tank just to find a gas station that has it.  Anything you can share about the subject would be appreciated.  

RossL
Posted 8 hours ago
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55blacktie (5/23/2025)
Did you check the timing and the thermostat? It could also be a faulty gauge/sender.


The car was restored 15 years ago, mechanicals deteriorated due to long storage.   The car will be used as a driver/

The car has AC and the electric fan is in front of the radiator and condensor.  The electric fan is turned on by the AC "OR" there is also a thermostat in the radiator.   It's wired to the battery the fan will run a few minutes after I turn the ignition off.

Timing is fine, thermostat is working fine.   The vacuum advance was rebuilt last year.

The opening for the spacer was "cleaned up", per Paragon's instructions.   I have an upgraded thermostat with larger opening.
Everything described above worked fine last summer, it was much hotter last summer that it is now...........   The car never sputtered or stalled out, something had to change/break from last year.

Daniel Jessup
Posted 12 hours ago
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Are you running "gasoline" that has ethanol in it? If so, the boiling point of your fuel is much lower than pure gas would be. If this is the case I have some videos to show the issues firsthand.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


KULTULZ
Posted Yesterday
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"auxiliary electric fan, 6 blade mechanical fan"

You have a mechanical and electric fan? Is the electric mounted in front of the radiator? If so, it blocks air flow through the radiator. All of the front sheet metal and shrouding is on the car?

You have the upgraded WP spacer and a HI-FLOW PUMP? Did you rework the volute opening on the front cover? You also need (IMO) a wide mouth thermostat.

The way FORD positioned the WATER TEMP SENSOR on the FYB, it will not give you a true coolant temp reading.

AND, as mentioned above, if you are still running the LOAD-O-MATIC DIST, if defective will cause overheating (poor timing advance).

Is this BIRD a survivor, restoration, resto-mod or just driver?


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55blacktie
Posted Yesterday
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Did you check the timing and the thermostat? It could also be a faulty gauge/sender.
RossL
Posted Yesterday
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KULTULZ (5/22/2025)
"Yes it's a 55 TBird.   It's not overheating, it's vapor locking.   The vapor lock seems to follow the temperature gauge once it gets over 200 degrees (not sure of exact temp).   I am using an after market CASCO gauge and sender"

The fuel vapor lock/phase separation is caused by excessive engine compartment heat (the BIRD has a very poor engine compartment air flow).

There are many corrections that can be done to have one cool efficiently. The BIRD had design flaws (cooling system) and there are upgrades that can be done to cure them.


I already have the paragon spacer, high volume water pump, auxiliary electric fan, 6 blade mechanical fan, re-cored original radiator.   Something has changed in the car because I didn't have any issues driving in much hotter weather last summer.



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