Here are pics of a Microgard PCV2322 power valve on a Y.  I get them at the local O’Reilly’s.  The 90° nipple is supplied separately with the power valve so the PV can be used either as a straight or 90° configuration.
 

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Here’s an example, but there’s plain ones out there. Have used several of these over the years. Remember you need a baffle under it, or you’ll suck a lot of oil thru. I think Moroso still makes a grommet baffle combination. I’ve had mixed luck with those, but others report they’re ok.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-440308?rrec=true

https://www.moroso.com/pcv-grommet-baffle-1-per-package68772/


miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

PCV valve? I would like to find one that fits into the grommet in the valley pan, but has an attached right angle fitting for a hose. I know of the one that Larry sells but that does not have the right angle feature I am looking for. Thanks.

Winter break my first year in college was cold and damp, typical Seattle. I drove short trips around town seeing friends. At the end of a couple weeks I pulled the valve covers to set the valves. They were full of that light brown “jelly”. Wiping it out it was apparent it was mostly water. I freaked out, checked everything. Radiator fine. Dad came home, took one look, and said too many cold, short trips. Go get on the freeway and warm it up. By then I’d figured out he was getting a lot smarter. The next day I ran across town, 15 miles up the freeway and back at 60-70 mph. I let the engine cool and pulled the valve covers. Perfectly clean, just oil. That was my lesson on how road draft tubes and short trips worked in the winter. I didn’t know enough to put a PCV valve on it, but when I had cars with them I made sure they were clean and working at every oil change.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

This is good advice for any engine; no doubt you've seen condensation coming out of the tail pipe(s) upon start up. The engine needs to run until it reaches normal operating temperature, and make sure you have the correct thermostat; a 160-degree thermostat might prevent your engine from reaching the normal operating temperature. 

Kultulz's question (and anyone's answer) on which part of the country you live in makes a big difference. On my Y block with a good PCV system, I would get a little bit of cream colored goo in my oil filler cap over the winter months when I did not run the engine long enough for a good heat cycle to eliminate any moisture. I lived in southern Ohio in an area known for being cloudy and wet most of the year with high humidity. Since I moved out to Lancaster, California and the high desert in the spring of '23 - I have no issues with any goo. I do drive the car a little more than I did back in Ohio, but with the dry climate out here there is very little to no moisture that gets into the crankcase. 

My personal opinion is that if you have the original crankcase ventilation system in your Y Block, you really need to keep the thing going through good heat cycles of 30 minutes or more run time while running the vehicle down the highway at speed. Those original systems were made to suck air from the crankcase via the downdraft tube (either on the side of the block or the version with the long tube down the bell housing) pulingl the air through the filler cap and ventilate while the vehicle was moving down the road - hard to get air moving if only driving around stoplights, short runs to the cars and coffee meet up, and parades and such. If moisture is "burnt off" to a vapor because of a good heat cycle, the vapor in the crankcase still needs to exit somehow.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Is the filler cap open and has a filter element in it? The original (OEM) had a hog hair filter.

This is where the ROAD DRAFT SYSTEM draws outside air.

.. and the filter is not that expensive.

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I think I found the problem. I have gone through about 4 oil changes without pulling the cap off my road draft assembly. I took the cap off yesterday and a little water trickled out before I discovered the filter to be totally covered with the goo. I removed the entire assembly and cleaned everything with solvent. I felt no need to buy a new filter as the old one seemed to wash out thoroughly with solvent and compressed air. I also washed out and blew out the filter on the oil filter neck that also had goo on it. I believe I will now service the road draft tube at each oil change.

I don't know ...

If the deposits are that heavy, I would maybe consider an exhaust gas(es) test on the coolant and a system pressure check. With the pressure test, I would hold pressure on the system at the least for a few hours to see if the pressure drops any. If it does, it indicates an external/internal leakage. You might be able to borrow a pressure tester from a box store.

Is the milky substance white or cream colored?

How often do you change the coolant and what color are you using? If extended drains, was the coolant tested for Ph between drains?

When you serviced the road draft canister, did you change the filter? Is the oil filler cap fresh air filter clean and open?

Merely changing the oil (and filter) more often will not prevent the damage that can occur and is a waste of money (IMO). If the CCV SYSTEM is not performing correctly, there are other conditions other than water that can/will damage the engine.

What area of the country do you live in as it will also determine water (humidity) ingestion? Engine oil is also hygroscopic.

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The jelly issue is water. You need a PCV valve, 180 degree T stat and longer drives to mitigate the issue. Even with a PCV the Y block doesn't have great crank case evacuation in the valve covers, if any. There is a baffle on the valley plate, but zero chance that works as well as a breather in one valve cover and PCV in the opposite end of the other cover.