I'm located in Battle Ground, WA.  but if you and your customer are interested I can get it down, take photos, and go from there.  Send me a PM if you want to talk about it.
Thanks.

'55 T-Bird
Battle Ground, WA

Wow!  Thanks.  I guess it depends where you are.  I am in Missoula Montana.

Fishguy,
I have a complete 1954 EBY Mercury 256  4bbl that I bought for some parts but now I'm doing something else. I'm willing to sell it before people start calling me a hoarder!. 
Its clean but I have not torn it down so I don't know if its standard bore or not.  If you or anyone else is interested I would help you/them inspect it and if it looks good run it.  

'55 T-Bird
Battle Ground, WA

Not that it applies to the original thread but a 292 bored .050” is a stock 312 size and fits the 292 rod/stroke perfectly. I had a problem on one cylinder and power honed the bore of my .040” 292 to fit a standard bore piston that was 1.5 grams lighter. The honing is only taking .005” of cast iron all the way around and I have a dial bore gauge and kept it perfectly sized thru the bore. I also found a guy who had 3 ring sets for a std-bore 312 and he gave them to me. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

There are some owners who absolutely will not convert to 12v; I'm not one of them. My dad complained that his 55 Tbird was hard to start, particularly when the engine was still warm. He was willing to allow me to convert it to 12v. After the conversion, he said it had never started so easily. Unfortunately, he only got to drive the car a couple of more times before being diagnosed with dementia/Alzheimer's. 

Well...a client that seems not to be a car guy but also has sticker shock. 

Now I change my original answer...  Find a dirt cheap 302 or even a (GULP) 350 and call it a day and there will at least be some hot rodders that will want it when/if he or his family get around to selling it. 

I agree on making it 12V negative ground...my old neighbor was in his 70s and was proud that he was the original owner of his 1966 MGBGT.  He was also not mechanically inclined- at his own admission.  I remember he had the car flatbedded to a shop one day and I asked the issue.  He said it wouldn't start and that he replaced the battery so I asked if he was sure he got the cables correct and he said that he was.  The shop had it for a week and then told him that they didn't really do British cars or old cars...then they towed it home.  It took me 3 seconds to realize that he had the cables backwards.  Unreal.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed, hoping that my block will sonic check okay for an additional .010-.015, and that will be enough to clean up the bores for either 3.820/3.825 pistons & rings. 3.820 is common, but I know of only one manufacturer of 3.825 pistons and one manufacturer of 3.825 rings. 

A 292 that is +.060" is not necessarily junk.  I have three that are over that size and one makes 402hp,  the 303 EMC Y made 462hp and the other one makes 613hp.  With today's custom pistons available, you can order just about any size you want if you check ring availability for that size.  One of my engines is 3.812", one 3.830, 3,862, and I have a 312 in the works at 3.850".  Just saying.  Joe-JDC

JDC

Finding a block, crankshaft, etc. that are good candidates for a rebuild might be easier said than done. For instance, upon discovering that my ECZ-B 292 block is already +.060, I started looking for a replacement. I found a C2AE 292 block on CL for $250. The seller said it was +.030. Later, he said the bores varied from standard 3.750 to 3.800. He wanted $250 for the bare block. I found other blocks through a club member. He sent photos of a pile of blocks that had only wedges of wood separating them. He said one of them was + .030. He wanted $500 for a bare block. He did, however, say that I could have my pick and exchange it if it didn't check out okay. I passed on both. 

I wouldn't buy a complete engine, particularly one that the seller claimed to have been recently rebuilt, unless I could hear it run, preferably in a vehicle that could be driven; good luck finding it. Although it might cost more initially, your best bet is to contact Tim McMaster, Ted Eaton, or John Mummert. If anyone has a good candidate for a rebuild, they would. 

Although more 292s were made than any other Y-block, most were sold for scrap over the years or left outdoors, unprotected from the elements. Most people don't even know what a Y-block is and have no interest in them. Unfortunately, machine shops are often among them.  

I sent you a pm.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ