Last week my new throwout bearing arrived. This was just the bearing, hub not included. I try to purchase top quality part, Timken, made in USA #1625. The outer steel shell had a large burr at the lip where it is rolled on to the front race. Tried to turn the bearing with my hands and at first it rotated with a gritty feeling then became impossible to rotate any further.                             Today I received a new oil pan gasket "Best" brand #24026E with not a single bolt hole punched out.  WTH?    Sorry fellas, I just needed to let off some steam.................

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Maybe the trouble is, these pans have been grossly over torqued so many times the screw holes are all pulled up. Putting a good long straight edge on the rail shows this. Maybe the cork material of today isn't as firm as it once was? This is the only leak demon I have yet to conquer except for about 7 or 8 months, then it begins to show signs of weeping again. Retorquing  helps but for a shorter period until the raised holes are touching the engine block. At this point, no more compression can be added to the gasket between the bolt holes. It's not just the area at the rear main seal either. Maybe my pan is in worst shape than most? Every where else on my engine has been dry for years except the weeping oil pan. I'm going to try hammering out the raised up holes or devise a screw press like I use for extracting suspension bushings to level the pulled up holes. . Was disappointed to learn the "Best" gasket is just cork. NPD sells cork pan gaskets for $10.  So, level the pan rail and make a gasket from a sheet of silicone material?  If a gasket becomes too thick, there will be trouble fitting the oil pickup tube in the oil pump. 

64F100 57FAIRLANE500