Thanks Alan. It seems to be a lot easier to keep it 6 volt, especially if it has the higher output gen. There's always the option of going with the 6 volt alternator also. I still have to dig through the parts to find the gen to verify it is indeed the 60 amp gen. I just know zero about positive ground but it's probably easier to research that than it would be to convert to 12 volt. Not looking at installing a new stereo or gps or anything like that. The wiring is quite brittle from sitting so I'll probably do a rewire regardless. At least what isn't any good. Some of it may be okay.
As far as a 6 v battery, I don't know where to find one but once again, research. Can I still go with a pertronics ignition with 6 volt or do I need to stick with points etc?

Brad
Sierra Vista Arizona
1954 Lincoln Capri

I am with "Ford Dearborn".  Given the power accessories and AC, you are much better off keeping the 6 volt system.  As I said before, your Lincoln equipped with factory AC should have the larger 60 amp high output generator which, if in good condition should be fine for your charging needs.  In addition, the original style Group 2N 6 volt battery is not readily available (unless you want to pay about $500.00 for one) and was a bit short on cold cranking amps anyway.  I am using the larger Group 2 6 volt commercial battery from NAPA and it has many more cranking amps than the 2N anyway.  I have three of the Napa Group 2 6 volt batteries in all of my cars with the same high output generator that you should have and I have never had a charging or starting problem.  My power seat and windows work just fine.  When I am not driving I keep the cars on a 6 volt trickle "Battery Tender" so my batteries are always fully charged.  The "Battery Tender" also extends the life of the batteries so long as you maintain the water level in the batteries.  

B-rad, yes, I’m in Tucson occasionally in the winter, and it’s not that far by AZ distances. I’m sitting in the house outside Seattle, looking at a thermometer outside that says 33*, mixed rain and snow all day. I’m wondering why in h— I’m here.

Somewhere along the line you’ll need to figure out that AC compressor. On another site it was mentioned that that style compressor was often directly driven, and solenoid valves unloaded it when the a/c cycled off. Could have been mechanical or electrical solenoids. But since retaining the a/c is a major item in AZ that’s part of the question.

Classic Auto Air (I’ve got one of theirs in my bird) also has a separate restoration side in Tampa. Might be worth a call to them for planning and information purposes.

https://www.classicautoair.com/air-conditioning-restoration-repair-services-by-classic-auto-air/

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

My thoughts as to the DC motors is if the voltage is doubled, the current will rise significantly creating a lot of heat. Those motors will eventually fail. Especially when in a stalled condition such as when the seat or a window reaches the end of it's desired travel.  The same switches that were designed for 6 volt motors will also be subjected to the additional current. A 12 volt motor has higher resistance than a 6 volt motor so the current stays in check when the voltage is matched to the task. I would also think the additional torque applied to the mechanism's may eventually have a negative effect also.  As for the A/C clutch coil, it too will run hotter on 12 volts but unlike seat and window motors, it's use will be constant as opposed to a couple seconds duty time for seat or window motors.   I'm guessing the accessories in your Lincoln car will be in good shape for wear and after a thorough cleaning/lubricating should work very well. You could keep the 6 volt system at least until the vehicle gets on the road then make a decision. I believe someone mentioned there is a 6 volt alternator? If so, then that should help maintain a more constant voltage at idle. Are there 6 volt led head light and tail light bulbs? If there are such a bulb, they would draw 1/10 the current incandescent bulbs pull and provide better lighting.   Just some possibilities and food for thought, nothing more.  Nice Lincoln car you have in remarkable condition.............

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

I'd still have the power seats, windows and ac that are 6 volt. I heard the windows and seats will work with 12 volt, just faster. Does anyone know how to see if the ac compressor will work with 12 volt? What about interior lights, head and tail lights,turn signals? Just change the bulbs to 12 volt?

Brad
Sierra Vista Arizona
1954 Lincoln Capri

I don' t agree on the 6V vs 12V.  Going to 12 volts opens up a lot of oppertunities for add ons such as air, better radios, etc.  Not that expensive to do a change over..  If wires are in good shape no reason to change them. 12V will work with 6V gauges if you use the Ford voltage reducer.  6V starter works good on 12V.  Using a  standard alternator instead of the fancy ones that looks like a generator  means you can get a replacement anywhere when it goes south.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I agree on keeping the system 6 volt.  With all the accessories, you are going to have a big job changing everything over if you do decided to go 12 volt.  You may want to consider a Power-Gen alternator that looks and fits like the original generator.  It is a 1 wire alternator and you want the one with 3 connections if you want the generator light to work.  I have these on my fleet of Mid 50's Fords and I LOVE it.  I leave the regulator there and cut the internals so that the regulator is just a junction for the wires.  I use the original harness from the generator to the regulator and I find they keep my systems running and trouble free.  I have one on my 57 Skyliner that has power windows, seat a and factory air.  My only complaint is that you need to make sure that the nut holding the pulley is on tight.  I had to use my original pulley because it is a double pulley for the car with factory air and I did not get the nut on tight enough.  They do not machine the shaft for the woodruff key and it will slip if not tight.  I spoke to them about this and they said it was unnecessary to have the shaft machined for the woodruff key but I disagree.  In any case, the problem is solved if you tighten the nut accordingly.

While staying with the 6 Volt system does present somewhat of an issue, it would appear that in your case, going to 12 Volt will be even a more of a pain & expense then it's worth.. It's now a collector vehicle..  I suggest you go with it..    


Paul

To charge a phone in your car, there are adapters  that plug into the cigarette lighter.  Can find them most any where.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

You will probably find the DC motors in need of attention as was the case when restoring my 64 F100.  It too spent it's life in the south west and the wiper- blower motors had little to no wear at all.   However, the oilite bushings and gears were in serious need of lubrication with old hardened dried out grease. Not something those motors will be happy with for very long.   Your shop manual may show how to service them or it can be a subject for another thread. 

64F100 57FAIRLANE500