Hi Phil, I may have stumbled upon the answer to this statement you made with regard to my difficulty removing the cable from the Speedometer in my 55.

“The connector is about an inch long and made out of a spring like material. It connects the gauge with the cable end. Why it's there, I haven't a clue”.

I believe the connector was intended to prevent the cable from being inserted too far into the Speedo housing. I lubricated and installed the new cable snugging up the fastener finger tight. On a test drive the needle vibrated only slightly and I figured that’s par for the course. After maybe 20 miles it began to make the rotational scraping sound to my great dismay, it sounded like it was coming from the speedometer itself. I unscrewed the cable and realized a bundle of wires from the dash harness was sitting on a lip of the dash applying upward pressure on the cable. I moved the harness away and reinserted the cable lightly snug. On my test drive the needle behaved perfectly without the slightest bounce or vibration, just like a modern car, I was pleasantly amazed. I believe the connector was there purposely to prevent the cable from being connected directly to the housing. My original problem began when I was unable to remove the cable after I tightening to the housing.


1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY

Hi Phil, I may have stumbled upon the answer to this statement you made with regard to my difficulty removing the cable from the Speedometer in my 55.

“The connector is about an inch long and made out of a spring like material. It connects the gauge with the cable end. Why it's there, I haven't a clue”.

I believe the connector was intended to prevent the cable from being inserted too far into the Speedo housing. I lubricated and installed the new cable snugging up the fastener finger tight. On a test drive the needle vibrated only slightly and I figured that’s par for the course. After maybe 20 miles it began to make the rotational scraping sound to my great dismay, it sounded like it was coming from the speedometer itself. I unscrewed the cable and realized a bundle of wires from the dash harness was sitting on a lip of the dash applying upward pressure on the cable. I moved the harness away and reinserted the cable lightly snug. On my test drive the needle behaved perfectly without the slightest bounce or vibration, just like a modern car, I was pleasantly amazed. I believe the connector was there purposely to prevent the cable from being connected directly to the housing. My original problem began when I was unable to remove the cable after I tightening to the housing.

1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY

Thanks, 312.

I gave some thought to replacing the Fordomatic with a T5, but I haven't owned a vehicle/w a manual transmission since the 90s. Mind you, I haven't forgotten how to shift, but I've settled down and gotten lazy. Having fought commuter traffic for over 20 years might have had something to do with it as well. 

55blacktie After completely removing the cable I found out it actually is a 57 cable which was installed in my T86 OD part number 17260-B used with 1957 292 engines from Hill’s and yes it fits the 55 speedometer. All 55 to 57 cables are the same, however the transmission ends vary. I compared a new 55 S/T cable to the 17260-B and it is identical on both ends.

1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY

Thanks!

I was under my 55 a few days ago and disconnected the shifter from the transmission. I intend to remove the OEM shifter and the transmission tunnel cover plate. I will  modify/replace it to accommodate a Lokar C4 floor-mounted shifter. Maybe the cable is easier to access with the cover removed. When it comes time to install the rebuilt engine and C4 transmission, I will heed Gil Baumgartner's advice and install the cable before the transmission goes back into the car.

55blacktie Today I removed the cable sheath from the transmission; my new cable is in route from Hill’s. I’ll let you know how it all goes together.

1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY

Thanks. I don't know, yet, if my existing cable is the OEM/w clip or not, but good to know that the clip isn't needed on the replacement cable. 

55blacktie the clip probably isn’t needed see my previous post regarding a conversation I had with someone at Hill’s Thundering Parts. The cables they sell plug right in, no clip needed. I believe the person who installed my cable a number of years ago didn’t take the time to line it up and more or less forced it in with the retaining nut.

1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY

Good information, but now I'm concerned that the 57 cable I bought to use with the C4/C5 transmission will not fit the 55 speedometer. I did not know anything about the clip. I guess I need to crawl back under there and remove it. I would prefer not to use the angle drive at the transmission. 

Anyone with a 55 Tbird convert to C4? What speedometer cable did you use?

Hard to say what's going on from here.  My '55 Tbird was unmolested when I purchased it about five years ago.  My speedometer cable uses the clip in the photo.  The end of my cable has a female end where the clip fits into.  The clip goes into the female end of the gauge.  It is not necessary to remove the seat or the steering column to remove the gauge cluster.   There are four 3/8" nuts holding some small angle pieces underneath the dome.  You can use a 1/4" socket with a long extension to reach these nuts from under the dash.  If you lose the angle pieces, they are available.  It's helpful if you are a contortionist.