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312YBlock
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I want to lubricate the speedometer cable on my 55 T-Bird. I backed off the retaining nut and expected the cable to just pull free from the speedometer, but it won’t budge, and I can’t fathom why. I was able to snap a photo blind since I have almost zero room to maneuver and am hoping someone has the answer to my dilemma.
1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY
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Florida_Phil
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There is a small spring like connector part between the cable and the speedometer itself. It can fall out if you don't know it's there. Sounds like it may be stuck or distorted preventing you from removing the cable, Once you loosen the nut, the cable should pull out. You may have to remove the gauge assembly. You have to reach under the dash to get to the nuts and retainers.
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312YBlock
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I was thinking, the end of the cable has that little silver nib on it that I can wiggle up, down and side to side, so it’s not frozen. You mentioned a spring connector, could it be instead of trying to pull it out I should push it in and rotate it to unlock it?
1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY
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BamaBob
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Is that a small set-screw in the top of the sleeve that the cable is stuck into? I've personally never had any problem just pulling the cable right out of the back of the speedometer, but it was never in a T-Bird. Can you get under the dash enough to use a light and mirror to more closely see it? Just a thought-might work.
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paul2748
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To get under with the seat in, move the seat all the way back. Then get one of the milk crate like boxes and put it next to the door sill. Then slide yourself in. This helps your back and makes it easier to get under the dash. Still tight, but it helps when working under the dash on the drivers side.
In my experience with my 56, the inner cable should just pull out. There is nothing physically attaching it to the speedo head
54 Victoria 312; 48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312 Forever Ford Midland Park, NJ
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Florida_Phil
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The connector is about an inch long and made out of a spring like material. It connects the gauge with the cable end. Why it's there, I haven't a clue. I have disconnected a lot of old Ford speedo cables before and never saw this part until I removed the cable from my 55 Tbird. It may be some kind of vibration insulator? It is held in place when the cable nut is tightened. Your cable should come out without too much trouble. If it's frozen solid, you will have to remove the gauge panel.
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312YBlock
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I have a plan. I spoke to the CASCO restoration shop, the fellow said “there is nothing that can prevent the cable from being removed, just backoff the retaining nut and give it a yank”. The “stud” end of the cable is loose in the housing but won’t release. My plan is to pull the cable through from the transmission end and tie it to the clutch pedal, next while thinking rude thoughts, stomp on the pedal 😊.
1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY
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BamaBob
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Another thought-take hold of the cable where it passes through the firewall under the hood and pull on it.
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55blacktie
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The cable isn't accessible from under the hood. It passes through a hole in the transmission tunnel and attaches to a 90-degree speedometer-gear drive. Accessing/removing the speedometer cable at the transmission, even with the exhaust system removed, is difficult, due to extremely limited space. Gil Baumgartner (CTCI Gil's Garage) recommends attaching the cable to the transmission before reinstalling a rebuilt engine/transmission for that reason. If it's not easier to access cable when I remove the shifter cover plate from the transmission tunnel, I will leave the cable attached to the transmission when removed. Hopefully, I won't have the same trouble as the OP when removing the cable from the speedometer. If so, I'll cut the cable. The original cable won't be used when installing a C4 transmission. However, the speedometer driven gear at the transmission for a C4 is the same as the 57 T-bird's. In other words, a 57 T-bird speedometer cable will work on the C4.
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1/8cavman
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Do yourself a favor and remove the seat. Your back and patience will thank you. I think all 55 T-birds had power seats. They are not that hard to remove. 4 nuts to remove, block seat up a little to remove the pin that connects the bottom seat drive to the seat frame, same type pin for the rear motor. Unplug the wires to the motors. A strong, agile partner to take the seat out the passenger door. Oh yes remove the hard top or lay the soft top down on the deck before seat removal. Now room to lay on the floor to get under the dash or take a nap. As mentioned before by someone, I would take the cable loose from the angle drive at the transmission to allow more and easier movement away from the speedometer. Now a little squirt of ATF or Marvel Mystery oil at the area were the cable will not come loose and let it set for a while. Is the lubrication for a noise problem or to cure a wavy speedometer needle? I let a wavy needle go too long and ruined the inners of the odometer. The T-bird speedometer-odometer parts are different from the passenger car. They are very expensive to rebuild and parts for them are very limited when I inquired about them. Take your time and be easy on it. Good luck 1/8 Cav Man
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