Electrically installing a Ford 3 wire G1 alternator is not a big deal. Some of the existing wires for the generator system can be used for the alternator system. For example, everyone usually wants to keep the red charge indicator functional.  In the generator system, the charge light terminates at the A terminal of the generator regulator. By reattaching this wire to the I terminal of the alternator regulator will keep the light functioning as it did before. The field wire on the generator will be the field wire on the alternator and will be reattached to the field terminal of the alternator regulator. You should fabricate a new heavy gauge wire from the "Bat" lug on the alternator to the battery side of the starter relay.  Now you'll need to add 2 new wires/connections: 1) #16 wire from the A terminal of the alternator regulator to the battery side of the starter relay.  2) #16 wire from the stator terminal of the alternator to the S terminal of the alternator regulator.  The ground wire on the generator will now be grounded to the alternator then grounded to either mounting screw of the alternator regulator and that's basically it. It's probably the best functioning alternator systems there is and will put out very stable power even at idle, it's very easy to rebuild/repair and parts are available.  As far as mounting the alternator, every installation is different. If interested, there are many of us on this forum that could post pictures. In my case, the original generator bracketry was used. Good luck......................



64F100 57FAIRLANE500

The pulley ratio affects all alternators.  Having the pulley ratio optimal simply ensures that the alternator can produce the most power for a given rpm.  A 1 wire has to achieve a certain rpm before it will start charging but this will usually happen by 1000-1500 engine RPM and the ratio has little to do with that in most practical use cases.

There are options to have a gen light with a one wire alternator.  I think Ron Francis makes a voltage sensor that will activate the light if voltage is below a certain threshold.  Probably others on the market.  A volt meter is another alternative.  If you do want to retain the gen light functionality, it probably does make more sense to go with a 3 wire.



Lawrenceville, GA

I bought a powermaster alternator (not gen style) when I added AC. It had a wiring diagram to use the regulator as a junction point and keep the red generator light which I liked, the original AWG #10 wire could handle everything. I used the Vintage Air mounting system for the compressor and alternator. It mounts the alt infront of the right cylinder head and the compressor in the original generator position. A very clean look. The unit I wanted would not allow me to keep the stock radio and get it out if something was needed. The shop doing the work suggested an Old Air Products Hurricane for in the car. I made my own panel using the Old Air electonic controller and a combo of vents I wanted and they had and gave it to the shop to install, and add the hoses and electrical connections.  I lost about 1/2 the glove box. It works great and will freeze you out on low fan. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I bought a Powermaster PowerGEN Alternator it looks like a og generator and I was able to use l the stock braket and belt.

The car will remain pretty much stock, but I do hope to someday add VintageAir A/C which would definitely add some power demand.  As mentioned before, this will not be a hot rod and the engine will be stock power but with drivability upgrades such as newer carb and electronic ignition.  I did read some articles about pulley size and getting alternators to charge correctly at lower RPMs.  But it sounded like that was mostly an issue with 1 wire alternators and the 3 wire did not have that issue.  Is that correct?  Also, I may have misunderstood some articles, but sounded like if I wanted my "GEN" warning light to be functional, I would need a 3 wire alternator.  Is that correct?
Thanks!

If you need to rely on it, install an alternator.  They are available 100% brand new and will work reliably for years, if not decades whereas the generator cannot be totally brand new in any practical sense, and therefore compromises are made even when rebuilt.

There are pros and cons between a multiwire and 1 wire alternator.  1 wire is the cleanest and easiest install.  If the car will be more or less stock, 1 wire will be just fine.  If it will have modern upgrades, like a stereo or other devises that require more power, then a multiwire might be the better choice.

The key item to get right with an alternator swap is the drive ratio.  On a Y Block with a stock or replacement damper, it is impossible to get that optimal but a 2 3/8" pulley gets it as close as it can be and makes a big difference.  Many alternators come with a 2 5/8" pulley installed.  The ratio needs to be about 3:1, while keeping the max alternator speed below 18000rpm.  On a stock or mild Y (which is most of them), that upper limit is not a problem but it can require compromise for the really powerful ones.


Lawrenceville, GA

Thank you all very much for all of your feedback.  I am taking note of everything as I decide what route I will take.  I will definitely find out what I have once I tear down the engine and take the block to a machine shop.  There are a few good ones in the Wichita, Ks area and I will pass on the info you all provided.  So please keep the info coming!   There are a few swap meets coming up near me and I will see what parts are available, so I may contact some of you at some point who have parts available for sale.  
I do have one other related upgrade question about electrical.  I plan to replace all wiring with a new wiring harness kit (probably one from Rebel).  The car still had the original 12v generator.  I am wondering if an upgrade to a later style alternator would be beneficial?  If so, should I go with just a standard Ford 1G style 1 wire which I believe still needs an external regulator, or go with a GM 1 wire with internal regulator.  Are there any major wiring changes required with going with an alternator?  
Thanks again!

Mike, I can supply an ECZ-B intake manifold for way less than the ebay price.  It has had a front ear broken and repaired.  Since your car isn't going to be a "correct" show car, the repair, although well done, won't be an issue.  It can be bought $125 cheaper than the ebay one.  I don't know where you are, but shipping cast iron isn't very cheap.  I can also supply a manifold with no repairs for $50 less than the ebay one. 

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

If you you choose to use a 312 standard piston in a 292 rebuild be sure to use 312 rings a they are different thicknesses. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Watch the compression height of those off-the-shelf cast pistons, some of which can be as much as 0.035 below the deck.